tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4812475701638463602024-03-13T09:13:45.056-07:00The GeNeRaL's Plamo CampA documentation of my projects and learnings in the world of plastic scale modelling.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.comBlogger24125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-51402764487230111422016-02-09T02:27:00.001-08:002016-02-09T02:27:12.232-08:00[Unboxing][Review]Gundam Converge#01 No.120 and 121 (Nu Gundam and Sazabi)<h2>
Minovsky Bros</h2>
どうも!<br />
While I am still customizing two kits as of this writing, I went to a recent Otaku Expo here in the Philippines. While enjoyed taking pictures of and with wonderful and beautiful cosplayers, I managed to pick some kits (mainly and RG Destiny ang Wing EW) and also managed to spot two nice Gundam Converge figures:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0TSN0rfKgC0/VrmxSfox7PI/AAAAAAAAB6M/Ab7HWMwZW2Y/s1600/20160124_211818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0TSN0rfKgC0/VrmxSfox7PI/AAAAAAAAB6M/Ab7HWMwZW2Y/s320/20160124_211818.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small haul from Otaku Expo 2016<br />I gave the RG Wing EW to my younger bro</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Yep, it's the two MIA suits xD<br />
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<a name='more'></a>I have been planning to get Gundam Converge figures for a while now. I just couldn't find a good one to get but then a few hours before we left the expo, I saw these two on the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/WattaToys/?fref=ts" target="_blank">Wattatoys</a> booth. It was like destiny/fate for me to see these two. They are also properly priced. It's like they were said to have turned to Minovsky particles by the end of the Char's Counterattack (U.C. 0093) but returned in this form for me to get them xD. Anyway, these two, I believe, are must-haves for a UC lover like me and you should not just buy the other one, they must be both as a pair or else Lala Sune will be crying her newtype ass off. Getting these two made me more excited than getting the RG kit above. Given so, let's look at how it is presented here.<br /><br />
<h4>
The Presentation</h4>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G4niJeVpum0/Vrmzsca-a3I/AAAAAAAAB6Y/U6kkjmSaQTs/s1600/20160124_214955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G4niJeVpum0/Vrmzsca-a3I/AAAAAAAAB6Y/U6kkjmSaQTs/s400/20160124_214955.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iqRMm1U-YTk/VrmztI-7LOI/AAAAAAAAB6c/zbcO_fJlzZ0/s1600/20160124_215059.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iqRMm1U-YTk/VrmztI-7LOI/AAAAAAAAB6c/zbcO_fJlzZ0/s320/20160124_215059.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The box/packaging is very straight-forward and can be opened through perforations. You may keep the boxes or throw it away, but for me it's also kinda nice to keep due to the nice design/art used :)<br />
<h4>
<br />The Contents</h4>
Converge figures come partially assembled and already pre-painted and requires a minor final assembly.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No. 120 - Nu Gundam contents</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No. 121 - Sazabi</td></tr>
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All you have to do is plug the accessories on the figure and pose them as you would like them. Both them comes with a platform as their main display base.<br />
<h4>
The Figures</h4>
So without further delays, here they are in assembled form:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HoK8--ncDg4/Vrm3jRuVosI/AAAAAAAAB7A/jEvowV6z6vI/s1600/20160124_220340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HoK8--ncDg4/Vrm3jRuVosI/AAAAAAAAB7A/jEvowV6z6vI/s320/20160124_220340.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I would have to say, the Nu even on this form looks mighty bad-ass. It comes with its shield and beam rifle<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NvQXn4a6Crw/Vrm3ey8xg7I/AAAAAAAAB68/WHUzE-0qXMk/s1600/20160124_220354.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NvQXn4a6Crw/Vrm3ey8xg7I/AAAAAAAAB68/WHUzE-0qXMk/s320/20160124_220354.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
...along with its one-winged fin funnel configuration and its bazooka, which can be stowed at its back (though I am not sure if it was an intended storage for the bazooka). Unfortunately, only the right hand can hold a weapon, so will need to choose what you will make it hold for its final display form. I think you could also opt to do panel washing to bring the details out even better.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uYxFnGB8xAI/Vrm3pho1NwI/AAAAAAAAB7E/MlE5VMI5B4A/s1600/20160124_220921.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uYxFnGB8xAI/Vrm3pho1NwI/AAAAAAAAB7E/MlE5VMI5B4A/s320/20160124_220921.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
It also comes with small runner of tiny "T" and "L" bits. As the small instruction sheet says, these bits are 'detail-up' parts which you have to insert on depressions on its shoulders and legs. Not sure how it 'ups the details' but I guess you better them on or leave the figure with weird holes on it.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8kx50Qs4jEs/Vrm5nqf_dKI/AAAAAAAAB7c/QrBKgWr7S7g/s1600/20160124_221703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8kx50Qs4jEs/Vrm5nqf_dKI/AAAAAAAAB7c/QrBKgWr7S7g/s320/20160124_221703.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The Sazabi on the other hand is somehow as majestic as its MG Ver. Ka big brother. It comes with its shield and beam long rifle and its two funnel dispensers at its back.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x5OeD-guLIM/Vrm5lKpJQeI/AAAAAAAAB7U/JlqLzCs9MCQ/s1600/20160124_221637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x5OeD-guLIM/Vrm5lKpJQeI/AAAAAAAAB7U/JlqLzCs9MCQ/s320/20160124_221637.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Though like the Nu, it can only hold one weapon at a time. One weird thing is that the hand that holds the rifle is stuck to the rifle itself so you will have to replace hands altogether if you will be switching what weapon you want it to hold. By the way, the Nu Gundam did not come with a beam weapon to match the Sazabi's. But I guess it is okay since you won't be able to pose them melee-fighting anyway.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9L4Czr8NQXQ/Vrm8HIPFsVI/AAAAAAAAB7o/qyFHTw6uFUw/s1600/20160124_215438.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9L4Czr8NQXQ/Vrm8HIPFsVI/AAAAAAAAB7o/qyFHTw6uFUw/s400/20160124_215438.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bandai gum</td></tr>
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Oh and by the way, each of the figures comes with this Bandai gum which they always mention in promotional materials. I haven't tried it yet, but I am afraid to do so haha.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fghS01KuwVk/Vrm5m0v_nwI/AAAAAAAAB7g/6fBR_VTbzqk/s1600/20160124_221800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fghS01KuwVk/Vrm5m0v_nwI/AAAAAAAAB7g/6fBR_VTbzqk/s400/20160124_221800.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
I should say, I now love Gundam Converge Figures.<br />
<h4>
Final Words</h4>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QCdXuiajQTs/Vrm-Dpi2VqI/AAAAAAAAB70/b_PPmKdy8Vs/s1600/20160124_221915.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QCdXuiajQTs/Vrm-Dpi2VqI/AAAAAAAAB70/b_PPmKdy8Vs/s400/20160124_221915.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Since I was a kid, I already got the SD version of these two when it came out in the late 90's. I really loved the Nu back then and loved the story behind these two mobile suits. Finding them in this form is truly nostalgic for me. These two suits are in my top favorite mobile suits that the Gundam universes has ever churned out. It features the last suits that eternal rival newtypes Amuro and Char piloted - until they went MIA or something. Having them in this easy-to-love form is a plus even for a plastic modeller like me. I already built the Sazabi last 2014 and I already have the Hi-Nu in the stockpile, but seeing these two side by side makes me want to get the Nu Ver. Ka too.<br />
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I really would suggest modellers out there to get Converge figures as well - they really are kind of inspiring to have in display. I actually feel like getting the the GP01Fb-GP02 Converge package I saw as I also love those two suits.<br />
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Anyway, I hope this inspires you as well. Please come back again another time as I will be posting the WIPs on my 2 parallel customization projects. See you all again soon :)Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-82493647436505779032015-12-05T00:34:00.004-08:002015-12-05T00:38:22.136-08:00[Unboxing] Bandai MG 1/100 RX-78-02 Gundam The Origin Version<h2>
Gundam Rising!</h2>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QEgXjnENhZQ/VmKQh_k779I/AAAAAAAABx0/AQcnzUHU3dk/s1600/20151204_162723.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QEgXjnENhZQ/VmKQh_k779I/AAAAAAAABx0/AQcnzUHU3dk/s320/20151204_162723.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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どうも!<br />
Got another kit early this December and yes, it's another granddaddy! This time it's the re-imagined version: <b>The Origin </b>version! Time to see what's inside :D<br />
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<a name='more'></a><h4>
Foreword</h4>
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You might be wondering, "Why Bandai? Why another version of the first Gundam?" Just to start you off, the original story from 1980's anime series is being retold in manga format. I haven't read it yet but from my basic understanding, the <b>The Origin</b> series has some new elements added to the original story. I think that the <b>The Origin</b> series aims to tell the story as it was originally meant to be told (I hope Amuro won't die by the end of the series, though).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1K7B1A7mVE/VmKRo0n4zwI/AAAAAAAAByA/JTM4pVpzfFQ/s1600/Gundam_%2527The_Origin%2527_Mechanic_Archive_RX78-02_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1K7B1A7mVE/VmKRo0n4zwI/AAAAAAAAByA/JTM4pVpzfFQ/s320/Gundam_%2527The_Origin%2527_Mechanic_Archive_RX78-02_3.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From Gundam Wikia</td></tr>
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There is also a new movie series of the same name that started earlier this year (2015). The movie series, however, started with how Char Aznable came to be, instead of the original beginning where Side 7 was attacked by some recon Zaku II's.<br />
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In terms of scale model kits, Bandai already has a number of HG 1/144 kits based on the The Origin series, on which they started with Char's Zaku II. If you want to check my unboxing of the said kit, click <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/unboxing-bandai-hg-gundam-origin-ms-06s.html" target="_blank"><b>here</b></a>. Also after the manga series started, they also released a Gundam Fix Figuration for the granddaddy.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1IsKGwS8yd4/VmKURiwOd2I/AAAAAAAAByM/cTefSNc8LUQ/s1600/Gunjap%2BGFF1134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1IsKGwS8yd4/VmKURiwOd2I/AAAAAAAAByM/cTefSNc8LUQ/s320/Gunjap%2BGFF1134.jpg" width="258" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">GFF RX-78-02 Gundam (The Origin)<br />
Picture from Gunjap.net</td></tr>
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I was actually tempted to get this before but I held in the urge and just prayed for an MG kit to be released. Lo and behold, I got my wish before the year ended xD<br />
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One big thing to note about this version is that it was re-designed to be a meaner killing machine than the original design. If you would like to check the tech details on this baby, kindly check Gundam Wikia for it :)<br />
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Now, before we get in to unboxing itself, let me just note that the <b>The Origin</b> version of the Gundam is numbered as <b>RX-78-02</b> departing from what we know as the <i>RX-78-2</i>. It is still referred to as 'Gundam'. Not completely sure but in the <i>The Origin</i> series, they put the extra '0' before the 2 probably to imply that it is a different one from the original anime. With that put aside, time to dive in to contents of the kit.<br />
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<h4>
The Presentation</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-88iVYGwIIc0/VmKWIWszGrI/AAAAAAAAByc/W1wjTMFCnhw/s1600/20151205_143213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-88iVYGwIIc0/VmKWIWszGrI/AAAAAAAAByc/W1wjTMFCnhw/s400/20151205_143213.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main Box Art</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Box Side 1</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j3VIdt8RmQ0/VmKWIdqFsxI/AAAAAAAAByY/dQDavR_2_-g/s1600/20151205_143401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j3VIdt8RmQ0/VmKWIdqFsxI/AAAAAAAAByY/dQDavR_2_-g/s400/20151205_143401.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Box Side 2 and 4</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wAog_6RDbsk/VmKWYM8IAEI/AAAAAAAABy4/aJTgkkJO8Zk/s1600/20151205_143428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wAog_6RDbsk/VmKWYM8IAEI/AAAAAAAABy4/aJTgkkJO8Zk/s400/20151205_143428.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Box Side 3</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PDHSdA-KIow/VmKWWUXXzII/AAAAAAAAByw/y_SxTK92zbo/s1600/20151205_143458.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PDHSdA-KIow/VmKWWUXXzII/AAAAAAAAByw/y_SxTK92zbo/s400/20151205_143458.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Box Comparison<br />
The Origin vs Ver 3.0</td></tr>
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*The box size of the The Origin version and the Ver.3.0 are basically the same. Even the thickness is the same.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m0349Li7P-M/VmKWYJFdVGI/AAAAAAAABy8/n1y5EJ21zlQ/s1600/20151205_143622.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m0349Li7P-M/VmKWYJFdVGI/AAAAAAAABy8/n1y5EJ21zlQ/s400/20151205_143622.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Instructions Manual - Front</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cU6l0jmrihE/VmKWcMdzUuI/AAAAAAAABzI/bx9ZKU_hoD4/s1600/20151205_143644.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cU6l0jmrihE/VmKWcMdzUuI/AAAAAAAABzI/bx9ZKU_hoD4/s400/20151205_143644.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Instructions Manual - Back</span></td></tr>
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<div>
Overall, the boxing itself presents this Gundam in a much more menacing look, probably to really showcase how the White Devil got its name.</div>
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<h4>
Parts Count</h4>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D-YVIlp8-Kw/VmKY3W3qsKI/AAAAAAAABzU/4BK3RI6O2yk/s1600/20151205_143808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D-YVIlp8-Kw/VmKY3W3qsKI/AAAAAAAABzU/4BK3RI6O2yk/s320/20151205_143808.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Despite the relatively large box, I'd dare say that the kit has less runners compared to the Ver.3.0. Reading the instructions, I also saw that the build will be less complicated compared the 3.0 which I believe is nice for people like me who paint or customize their kits.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4AXZa9BdRAg/VmKZtFKrL4I/AAAAAAAABzc/feYMmAxDcRg/s1600/20151205_143926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4AXZa9BdRAg/VmKZtFKrL4I/AAAAAAAABzc/feYMmAxDcRg/s400/20151205_143926.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner A<br />
MP-1<br />
SB-1 (Beam Saber effect parts)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
*Worth mentioning is that the kit also uses the same MP-1 (fully articulated hand/manipulators) used by the 3.0.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7kGXnqwFF1w/VmKZv68Wp1I/AAAAAAAABzo/4GFEilcUWcI/s1600/20151205_144155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7kGXnqwFF1w/VmKZv68Wp1I/AAAAAAAABzo/4GFEilcUWcI/s400/20151205_144155.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner B</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E2_NLQsOR14/VmKZvL999cI/AAAAAAAABzk/Q6EgvjjtNV0/s1600/20151205_144357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E2_NLQsOR14/VmKZvL999cI/AAAAAAAABzk/Q6EgvjjtNV0/s400/20151205_144357.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner C</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-shQAN_jF9os/VmKZ1w-0_gI/AAAAAAAABz0/PKnTkvDCEjc/s1600/20151205_144453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-shQAN_jF9os/VmKZ1w-0_gI/AAAAAAAABz0/PKnTkvDCEjc/s400/20151205_144453.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner D1</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cJeL2P1BUWI/VmKZ4HWtFFI/AAAAAAAABz8/sVxnryEV7gE/s1600/20151205_144634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cJeL2P1BUWI/VmKZ4HWtFFI/AAAAAAAABz8/sVxnryEV7gE/s400/20151205_144634.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner D2</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e5V-mOZrnl4/VmKZ4GXdxgI/AAAAAAAAB0A/8mz_OCGHQ-0/s1600/20151205_144819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e5V-mOZrnl4/VmKZ4GXdxgI/AAAAAAAAB0A/8mz_OCGHQ-0/s400/20151205_144819.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner E</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RH8dTxS8Gns/VmKZ7DtRLnI/AAAAAAAAB0M/1UQFAnR0cKs/s1600/20151205_144845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RH8dTxS8Gns/VmKZ7DtRLnI/AAAAAAAAB0M/1UQFAnR0cKs/s400/20151205_144845.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner F</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-137TBQZxhdc/VmKaCzeiUmI/AAAAAAAAB0Y/YwvUvuU2sdE/s1600/20151205_144958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-137TBQZxhdc/VmKaCzeiUmI/AAAAAAAAB0Y/YwvUvuU2sdE/s400/20151205_144958.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner G1</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
*Nope, no runner G2<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-abbIhC4R3xo/VmKaCz3XJmI/AAAAAAAAB0U/_uuACKjBbzM/s1600/20151205_145146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-abbIhC4R3xo/VmKaCz3XJmI/AAAAAAAAB0U/_uuACKjBbzM/s400/20151205_145146.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner H</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CeYnHpEAEvE/VmKaDRbjaAI/AAAAAAAAB0g/rTPvK1ivHX8/s1600/20151205_145234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CeYnHpEAEvE/VmKaDRbjaAI/AAAAAAAAB0g/rTPvK1ivHX8/s400/20151205_145234.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner I</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WT-pByLovD0/VmKaGTDpw7I/AAAAAAAAB0s/hbOH1b1dawk/s1600/20151205_145700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WT-pByLovD0/VmKaGTDpw7I/AAAAAAAAB0s/hbOH1b1dawk/s400/20151205_145700.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polycaps and 2 sticker sheets for the markings and colors</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
So, you might be wondering, <b>is the Gundam The Origin kit a whole new kit on its own</b>? My answer is <b>90% yes</b>.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Runners A to H are all new runners, bearing the <b>オリジン </b>(Origin) mark which initially says that these runners were really meant for the The Origin version of the RX-78 and unique to kit itself.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wEjcQR_46rE/VmKcLUDHUhI/AAAAAAAAB04/YIcVAHtKd4c/s1600/20151205_145515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wEjcQR_46rE/VmKcLUDHUhI/AAAAAAAAB04/YIcVAHtKd4c/s640/20151205_145515.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
However, only Runner I has this:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2AW1B4bUJ5k/VmKcweirthI/AAAAAAAAB1A/rxlr2CUD_Ts/s1600/20151205_145545.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2AW1B4bUJ5k/VmKcweirthI/AAAAAAAAB1A/rxlr2CUD_Ts/s400/20151205_145545.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div>
<b>'Gundam Ver 2.0'</b></div>
<div>
Runner I basically contains a few inner-frame parts which is used by the kit. So we could say that the inner-frame of the The Origin version is in fact a redesigned version of the 2.0.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Also another thing to note is that the RX-78-02 does not have a <i>core fighter </i>as its core-block, therefore you won't get a core fighter like in the earlier releases of the granddaddy. It was designed that way in the manga and so it is also implemented in the kit.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h4>
Extras</h4>
<div>
Aside from the instruction manual, there is just this small flyer about the upcoming blu-ray releases for some iconic Gundam series ever released.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gm5asGM4A10/VmKemlWv-MI/AAAAAAAAB1M/_EUwMtR5B2g/s1600/20151205_145847.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gm5asGM4A10/VmKemlWv-MI/AAAAAAAAB1M/_EUwMtR5B2g/s400/20151205_145847.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
*I am actually interested on this Stardust Memory Blu-ray release. I am not interested on getting the blu-ray per se, rather I am curious if Bandai is also going to release something else to celebrate the popularity of this mini-series. Something like a ver 2.0 for the 0083 kits, perhaps?<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xPaJO62qgBA/VmKem3zhK-I/AAAAAAAAB1U/BUTbbAcWa1A/s1600/20151205_145903.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xPaJO62qgBA/VmKem3zhK-I/AAAAAAAAB1U/BUTbbAcWa1A/s400/20151205_145903.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JdVwRPYioFY/VmKemh-GpII/AAAAAAAAB1Q/-gPZJJHhE7w/s1600/20151205_145916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JdVwRPYioFY/VmKemh-GpII/AAAAAAAAB1Q/-gPZJJHhE7w/s400/20151205_145916.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h4>
Final Words</h4>
<div>
I would have to say, this kit has me excited on building it. It is, after all, a wish-came-true for me. It breathes a new life to the granddaddy Gundam by giving it some new toys. Browsing thru the manual, I saw that it is an easier build compared to the 3.0. Bandai basically redesigned some elements from 2.0 and incorporated the The Origin design to create this 'Old Dog with New Trick' and make it on par with the current Master Grade spirit. I am confident to say that this is a must have for true Gundam collectors, specially for the UC-lovers like me.</div>
<div>
Too bad, this might sit on my backlogs pile as I am still building my 3.0, but even so, I am thinking this will be the first Gunpla kit I will apply minor weathering to. The box art is definitely my main inspiration for this build when I get to it.<br />
<br />
If you want to check out how it differs to the 3.0, kindly check the unboxing I made <b><a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/12/unboxing-bandai-mg-1100-rx-78-2-gundam.html" target="_blank">here</a></b>.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Once again, thanks for tuning in and please stay tuned as I progress on my different projects.</div>
<div>
See you again soon :)</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-6982837716993427412015-12-04T06:18:00.000-08:002015-12-04T06:18:56.876-08:00[Unboxing] Bandai MG 1/100 RX-78-2 Gundam Ver. 3.0<h2>
35 Years!</h2>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WAeu-dG7ByU/VmGPcezZp5I/AAAAAAAABuI/AUOtbBtdC3A/s1600/20151113_004259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WAeu-dG7ByU/VmGPcezZp5I/AAAAAAAABuI/AUOtbBtdC3A/s320/20151113_004259.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
どうも!<br />
Reached in to my backlogs and wondered to build next. I remembered that it was GunPla/Gundam's 35th year anniversary and so why not? Time to document the unboxing!<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<h4>
Foreword</h4>
Yes, time to build a Granddaddy Gundam kit. Actually, this is the only RX-78-2 kit I have ever since I started with gunpla. Given so, I got this a few months ago to take advantage of the new engineering that Bandai has poured into this iconic mecha. This is actually the 3rd Version (Ver. 3.0) of the MG 1/100 kit for the first Gundam mobile suit ever featured in TV anime. The design for the kit is actually said to be closely based on the 1:1 scale Gundam in Odaiba and I believe that it is the most 'realistic' design for the RX-78; 'realistic' in a sense that if ever the real thing was built to be piloted, then the design that this kit uses will most likely be the main basis of the works.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DGal5KFV6Vo/VmGRKdQj7zI/AAAAAAAABuU/zIxejhY6Ov4/s1600/20151113_004651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DGal5KFV6Vo/VmGRKdQj7zI/AAAAAAAABuU/zIxejhY6Ov4/s400/20151113_004651.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
I guess the main feature of this kit is its new inner frame design and basically is the main reason I would say this kit brings the name MG (Master Grade) into a whole new level. I don't have the previous versions of this mobile sit kit but I've seen in reviews how this departs from the previous ones. By now, a lot of people what the RX-78 is: it is the first ever mobile suit that first main character of the Gundam series, Amuro Ray, ever piloted. This kit is based on the RX-78-2 (to be exact), and technically the start of a whole new sub-genre of the mecha-anime franchise in Japan and eventually, in the whole world. I wouldn't go into the details of the back-story but if you want to check it out, kindly browse the Gundam Wiki if necessary.<br />
Now, onto the unboxing itself.<br />
<br />
<h4>
The Presentation</h4>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WAeu-dG7ByU/VmGPcezZp5I/AAAAAAAABuM/EfEoL1QhZus/s1600/20151113_004259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WAeu-dG7ByU/VmGPcezZp5I/AAAAAAAABuM/EfEoL1QhZus/s400/20151113_004259.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main box art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The main box features the space sortie of the White Base trio along with the some GM mobile suits. It also shows the Gundam in its 'full-gear' form and technically shows how it looks like in the Gundam Front in real life.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HLHqBl0k6ik/VmGUPQcwYTI/AAAAAAAABug/cPx021DWmpE/s1600/20151204_185029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HLHqBl0k6ik/VmGUPQcwYTI/AAAAAAAABug/cPx021DWmpE/s400/20151204_185029.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J5xpJeUKweA/VmGUVe2DSxI/AAAAAAAABuo/1K6u6FuT1m0/s1600/20151204_185050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J5xpJeUKweA/VmGUVe2DSxI/AAAAAAAABuo/1K6u6FuT1m0/s400/20151204_185050.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
The side parts of the box features the improved pose-ability or articulation of the kit, primarily due to its new inner-frame as depicted in the sample pictures.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Parts Count</h4>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QokZQfqRK2s/VmGW0m70GrI/AAAAAAAABu0/RXLyZ2dExug/s1600/20151114_224342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QokZQfqRK2s/VmGW0m70GrI/AAAAAAAABu0/RXLyZ2dExug/s400/20151114_224342.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner A</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_EFu1TooqBU/VmGXWqBhRCI/AAAAAAAABu8/8j0JMyUu7JI/s1600/20151114_224421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_EFu1TooqBU/VmGXWqBhRCI/AAAAAAAABu8/8j0JMyUu7JI/s400/20151114_224421.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner B</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fnT2ArPaSZw/VmGXzzBYXfI/AAAAAAAABvE/JClBRitN7IY/s1600/20151114_224457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fnT2ArPaSZw/VmGXzzBYXfI/AAAAAAAABvE/JClBRitN7IY/s400/20151114_224457.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner C</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1G6tmVThR1Q/VmGX1LynAeI/AAAAAAAABvQ/nZgyDtKBYzY/s1600/20151114_224527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1G6tmVThR1Q/VmGX1LynAeI/AAAAAAAABvQ/nZgyDtKBYzY/s400/20151114_224527.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner D</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fvQk1oi7nnY/VmGX0SR8bdI/AAAAAAAABvI/k6xuW2jMxsw/s1600/20151114_224619.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fvQk1oi7nnY/VmGX0SR8bdI/AAAAAAAABvI/k6xuW2jMxsw/s400/20151114_224619.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner E</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lD8P6KJG1MM/VmGYbiAcTrI/AAAAAAAABvc/JqzsO9wvHfQ/s1600/20151114_224659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lD8P6KJG1MM/VmGYbiAcTrI/AAAAAAAABvc/JqzsO9wvHfQ/s400/20151114_224659.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner F1</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pHLdT1Wawq8/VmGYd4KIIcI/AAAAAAAABvk/bjSQTAji36A/s1600/20151114_224724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pHLdT1Wawq8/VmGYd4KIIcI/AAAAAAAABvk/bjSQTAji36A/s400/20151114_224724.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner F2</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WuHRVE_xVfw/VmGYgOCfj6I/AAAAAAAABvs/JGgRX01SI6w/s1600/20151114_224806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WuHRVE_xVfw/VmGYgOCfj6I/AAAAAAAABvs/JGgRX01SI6w/s400/20151114_224806.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner G1</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--K_TyykZ2Y8/VmGYhxpF1yI/AAAAAAAABv0/nSgoydi1N8w/s1600/20151114_224852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--K_TyykZ2Y8/VmGYhxpF1yI/AAAAAAAABv0/nSgoydi1N8w/s400/20151114_224852.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner G2</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-67QrqwdvwfE/VmGZUqIdTRI/AAAAAAAABv8/XZ8gJ27PQP4/s1600/20151114_224924.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-67QrqwdvwfE/VmGZUqIdTRI/AAAAAAAABv8/XZ8gJ27PQP4/s400/20151114_224924.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner H1</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pVC_E2zxbNw/VmGZW6gnLsI/AAAAAAAABwE/ZEYzsmO5QA0/s1600/20151114_225040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pVC_E2zxbNw/VmGZW6gnLsI/AAAAAAAABwE/ZEYzsmO5QA0/s400/20151114_225040.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner H2</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ehgvqz3LU_g/VmGZbHbZSFI/AAAAAAAABwM/6bL0nxj4gZc/s1600/20151114_225109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ehgvqz3LU_g/VmGZbHbZSFI/AAAAAAAABwM/6bL0nxj4gZc/s400/20151114_225109.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner I</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WnEowVpQFSs/VmGZdlmfJEI/AAAAAAAABwU/1XJE1jKD-Mg/s1600/20151114_225148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WnEowVpQFSs/VmGZdlmfJEI/AAAAAAAABwU/1XJE1jKD-Mg/s400/20151114_225148.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner J1</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8Trq9J0eymM/VmGZgVAutnI/AAAAAAAABwc/tsDwnLqP-4k/s1600/20151114_225220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8Trq9J0eymM/VmGZgVAutnI/AAAAAAAABwc/tsDwnLqP-4k/s400/20151114_225220.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner J2</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jd9gnI__Uvs/VmGarF0h6bI/AAAAAAAABww/_rZAreAV_Lo/s1600/20151114_225316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jd9gnI__Uvs/VmGarF0h6bI/AAAAAAAABww/_rZAreAV_Lo/s400/20151114_225316.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner K</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vs2J32_1vBU/VmGapjTdn3I/AAAAAAAABwo/KlIRaTxn0Ak/s1600/20151114_225345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vs2J32_1vBU/VmGapjTdn3I/AAAAAAAABwo/KlIRaTxn0Ak/s400/20151114_225345.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner L</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kXe2JLLyRuU/VmGaryuECKI/AAAAAAAABw0/8BtK_ZEFgXk/s1600/20151114_225409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kXe2JLLyRuU/VmGaryuECKI/AAAAAAAABw0/8BtK_ZEFgXk/s400/20151114_225409.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polycap set</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ch1oqkWEdEE/VmGauHtOxKI/AAAAAAAABxA/RQJejw3DqLo/s1600/20151114_225429.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ch1oqkWEdEE/VmGauHtOxKI/AAAAAAAABxA/RQJejw3DqLo/s400/20151114_225429.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MP-1 for the fully-articulated hands</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The kit technically has no repeating runners, runners like J1 and J2 are containing mostly the same parts and will be used for parts like the arms and legs. It is also worth mentioning that this particular kit is one of the first kits that used the new hands. This has the MP-1 runner. All you have to do is cut the hands carefully from the runner and just follow the instructions on how to set it up properly. Just be careful as it is know to be kind of delicate and you might lose a finger or two. I don't think it is as sturdy as the MP-2 included in the MG Sazabi Ver. Ka kit. The hands are basically scaled down versions of something like the Perfect Grade Astray Red Frame.<br />
As you can see from the runners, this has a lot of parts for the inner-frame. Just telling you something of what to expect when assembling this guy.<br />
<h4>
Extras</h4>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hMd2XV58lds/VmGdW-nH0KI/AAAAAAAABxM/P7oGeWI2yuA/s1600/20151204_184454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hMd2XV58lds/VmGdW-nH0KI/AAAAAAAABxM/P7oGeWI2yuA/s400/20151204_184454.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Instruction Manual</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BZCr4Ai3xYc/VmGdW9wFhyI/AAAAAAAABxQ/1QnTsBa6msQ/s1600/20151204_184320.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BZCr4Ai3xYc/VmGdW9wFhyI/AAAAAAAABxQ/1QnTsBa6msQ/s400/20151204_184320.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sticker Decal Sheet (above) - included in the kit<br />Water-Slide Decal sheet (below) - after-marker</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Again, you can expect the same disappointment from Bandai as they included only a sticker sheet for the markings and also for the copper-colored bits of the inner frame. The copper parts can be easily addressed with painting but as I don't like stickers, I already got an after-market water-slide decals from <b>Samuel Decals,</b> as always.<br />
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<h4>
Final Words</h4>
I actually already started snapping the kit together as I wrote this. Suffice to say, I can already feel the complexity of the assembly itself. It is also nice to see the proper color separations of the bits and pieces as I can see that there are actually more than 2 shades of grey and about two shades of white - not to mention the 2 different shades of blue and red involved. This kit was really meant to elevate the niche of the Master Grade line, specially since they've already had the RE/100 line in mind when they created this. This kit was sort of their way of putting a clear difference between the new 1/100 scale kits and thus giving the name 'Master Grade or MG' its own prestige. But my initial impression as I read the instruction manual (and now building it) is that it is kind of complicated for what it is worth. But I believe, complicated as it may be this is one impressive kit that collectors and builders should get their hands on.<br />
Given this, stay tuned as I progress thru this project. See you again soon :)<br />
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P.S.<br />
Here are the parts as they air-dry after taking a bath.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-73041391595524877382015-11-02T22:52:00.001-08:002015-11-02T23:14:23.267-08:00[Photoshoot][Project] Model Comprehend 1/144 RX-104FF Penelope Gundam Extra<h2>
Coming home to Ithaca</h2>
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どうも!After a relatively long rest, I am finally back to feature the hi-res pictures of my latest project. I hope you enjoy! :)<br />
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<h4>
Short Info</h4>
<b>Modeller: </b>Gimel M. Tomines a.k.a. GeN_GiM<br />
<b>Total build time: </b>3 months<br />
<b>Facebook Album: </b> <a href="https://www.facebook.com/gmtomines/media_set?set=a.1185562398125527.1073741837.100000153334656&type=3" target="_blank">click here</a><br />
<b>Photographer: </b>Peter M. Tomines<br />
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I also did a WIP (work-in-progress) series and a final painted review of the kit. If you're interested to see how I built this baby, kindly check the below links:<br />
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<b>Unboxing the kit: </b><a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/unboxing-mc-model-1144-rx-104ff.html" target="_blank">here</a><b><br /></b><br />
<b>WIP#1: </b><a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/projectwip-model-comprehend-1144-rx-104.html" target="_blank">here</a><br />
<b>WIP#2: </b><a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/06/projectwip-simple-experiment-for-model.html" target="_blank">here</a><br />
<b>WIP#3: </b><a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/07/projectwip-testing-new-alclads-for.html" target="_blank">here</a><br />
<b>WIP#4: </b><a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/08/projectwip-penelope-ep4-painting.html" target="_blank">here</a><br />
<b>WIP#5:</b> <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/08/projectwip-penelope-ep5-sealing-and.html" target="_blank">here</a><br />
<b>Painted Review: </b><a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/09/projectreview-model-comprehen-1144-rx.html" target="_blank">here</a><br />
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Now, without further delay, here are the pictures of the kit in my own rendition. I hope you will like it ^_^ これで、また宜しくお願いします!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is just to show how huge this kit is.<br />Here it is standing with my earlier project, the GP02 MLRS.<br />Note that both are in 1/144 scale.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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I hope you liked my version of the kit :) I am currently building two plamo kits as of the moment but they are both non-Gunpla but I guess they're still pretty interesting. Nonetheless, I hope you'll continue to stay tuned on my future projects. I'll be sure to post useful information for everyone.<br />
See you again soon ^_^Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-40470290301368455642015-09-10T10:55:00.002-07:002015-09-10T10:58:47.334-07:00[Project][Review] Model Comprehend 1/144 RX-104FF Penelope Gundam Built and Painted Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<h2>
Ithaca!</h2>
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どうも!<br />
I finally finished this project! It was finally married to the Flight Craft System and turned this Odysseus into the Penelope. Let's see how it went.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Last time I logged something about this kit, only its base form, namely the Odysseus, was in finished form. But now, I finally finished the remaining parts to put this in its final display form - the Penelope. Now, we discuss or review the kit itself in its finished form. Note that the pictures here are just taken with my phone's camera. Better pics were already taken in my younger brother's studio and I will put up a separate post for that. So let's go.<br />
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If you want to see the in-box review click <b><a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/unboxing-mc-model-1144-rx-104ff.html" target="_blank">here</a></b>!<br />
<h4>
RX-104 Odysseus</h4>
Overall, the kit offers a very good color separation. Color separations are better than the normal Bandai 1/144 or HG kits. Painting this kit is an easy one but of course you will have to do some modifications to address seam lines. To start with, I would call this kit more like an <b>'HG+'</b> - it technically has the engineering of the early MG kits by Bandai. It also offers nice details that you won't see in Bandai HG kits not to mention the inclusion of water-slide decals. The plastic used was ABS, which can be beneficial as it made the kit's cost relatively cheap but I think it also has downsides as the properties of ABS were probably not taken down properly and distorted some details and caused minor issues in the fittings - or maybe it has something to do with sub-par casting methods used by MC.<br />
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The kit gives you the choice to build and finish it in its base form, the Odysseus. You could actually finish it first in this form but you might want to assemble it in a way that it is prepared to receive the Penelope's parts.<br />
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An example are those shoulder joint parts. Basically, you are give two sets/pair. 1 pair for something to connect the Penelope parts to (like in the picture above), and another pair that is basically shorter and doesn't have those pegs. The shorter pair actually makes the shoulders look more natural and not awkward-looking like above. I generally skipped those pieces as, of course, I intended to finish it in Penelope form.<br />
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Those shoulders don't look that bad, really. It kind of looks hulking but not too much.<br />
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Another option part you can use is the back-pack. It has a different back-pack like above when it is in Odysseus form but you will have to remove it to make room for the Penelope's parts. But it is nice for it to be provided, nonetheless.<br />
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Another good thing about the kit is that it has an action base provided. It's technically the same one provided in the Xi Gundam released before it and it serves as the base for the mobile suit and the Minovsky Particle shield clusters later on. Just be careful with the parts for the base - it is known to break and it already actually formed stress marks in my case.<br />
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Also in its Odysseus form, this will be the only time that you will be able to pose it properly. When we took photos in the studio I had to first do it in this form so I can feature what few poses it can do. Once I attached the Penelope parts, it is doomed to be an impressive brick. I will show the Odysseus in its paces on a separate post.<br />
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<h4>
Penelope Waiting</h4>
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Now of course, the RX-104 is more popular in its RX-104FF form, or what I would like to call its <i>intended form</i>. In the story, the Odysseus docks with the Minovsky Craft Flight System and turns into the Penelope.<br />
The parts are actually detail-rich design and the decals added even more to the appeal of the kit.<br />
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Like the base parts, the Penelope parts are built such a way that the seam lines will be hidden by another overlapping part. Later on, I will show what parts will need seam line attention.<br />
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The Penelope parts are sectioned as such:<br />
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First, the leg armor parts:<br />
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Next, the abdominal parts:<br />
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The abdominal parts are made of a chest piece where the lower body armor will connect to. Details were omitted on the lower body armor, sadly. The lower body armor is supposed to be a dispenser of the funnel missles. Funnel missile pods were supposed to be under those lower body armor pieces, but in this kit there will be none.<br />
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Next are the shoulder parts:<br />
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The shoulder pieces are the 2nd largest parts of the kit. It technically is one of the most prominent pieces on the mobile suit and it is good that it was done nicely by MC. However, some details were also omitted. Firstly, those fins on top of each shoulder, they were supposed to be beam cannons like those in the Sentinel Gundam, but here there are no indications of any holes or cannon details. MC just made them as plain fins, it is articulated but the articulation is wasted since the cannon function is non-existent.<br />
Another thing is that the shoulders should also have funnel missile containers, like that in the Xi Gundam - too bad it did not have that detail. The shoulder armors are technically a big solid part and nothing else.<br />
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The simplest component of the Penelope is technically the Beam Rifle:<br />
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You just have the white parts (2 halves put together) a single blue piece. Nothing special, really.<br />
In contrast we have the biggest part and one of the most complex section, the backpack:<br />
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Left alone, it is the longest component and also adds quite a significant weight to the model. Nonetheless, it was one of my favorite parts in this project. It is meant to connect with the abdominal parts as you put it on the Odysseus and technically will rest on the shoulders and on a supporting piece at the back of the model.<br />
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In the novels, the design is that the Minovsky Craft Flight System can be transformed into a separate mobile armor that looks like a dragon. It consists, of the backpack, abdominal armors, shoulder armors and leg armors. Sadly, you won't be able to do that with this kit.<br />
I believe, all the details and gimmicks that MC skipped are present in the Mechanicore 1/100 version of the Penelope. But for me, those missing details are okay, due to the reason that I won't be spending my time in the future articulating and altering its pose while it is on display.<br />
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Another accessory is the Minovsky Particle Shield clusters. They are originally just plain transparent parts, but I painted them with Bosny Honda Blue, thinning it well enough so I can make varying shades of blue.<br />
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Putting them all together, here is the Penelope in its intended form:<br />
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Here is the suggested look if you paint the kit (as suggested in the instruction manual):<br />
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This is how I finished mine:<br />
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Primed with Alclad Primers, painted with a combination of Alclads for the metallic parts and decanted Bosny Spraypaints for the other parts. Finally, topcoated with Alclad's Flat Klear Kote.<br />
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Just note, once it is turned into the Penelope, it's technically set for life. A lot of the articulation goes out the window. Trying to pull off some poses will be very frustrating as you might have a lot of pieces falling off specially the lower body armor. I personally got frustrated and decided to abandon some posing ideas during the photoshoot. Nonetheless, I consider this like the MG EX-S Gundam - it's size and imposing appeal are enough to make this kit a very impressive one.<br />
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<h4>
Tips on Building</h4>
This is, in essence, an HG kit or an HG+ kit. It borrows engineering techniques used in the earlier MG kits and so, it will have seam lines (which you will have to clean or putty up). You will have to use ABS cement and/or spot/basic putty to cover them and make them look as a single piece instead of two halves put together. The following are the locations which you will need to focus on in terms of seam lines:<br />
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For those above, I decided to just turn them in to panel lines instead, adding an extra points of detail to the model. It actually made painting easier.<br />
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The part above in the leg armor should be cleaned of the nasty seam line. It simply will not look good and will screw up that overall look. After all, a decal is meant to be put there.<br />
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The feet also needs cleanup. It simply looks better with the seam lines gone.<br />
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One thing to consider are the skewed details that you might find like the below:<br />
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One of the circles was skewed and almost erased/faded. I think MC made a poor choice of first sculpting this part flat at first, then curving it into a concave shape causing those shapes to be stretched and thus destroying the intended pattern. I suggest, puttying the skewed circle to remove it altogether or use a small brass tube to correct the problem while the putty is still wet.<br />
Keep your eye out for mold-lines or what they call<i> <b>parting lines</b>. </i>Parting lines are technically small but noticeable flash lines on some flat parts caused by the molding process. It appears usually on where the casting molds meet and if the molds were not aligned properly, they will be more evident and sometimes skew some details. This kit also has those, and so be prepared to sand the parts properly.<br />
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<h4>
Summary</h4>
Pro's and Con's to close things up:<br />
<b>PRO</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Nice details, no shortage of panel lines</li>
<li>Adequate color separation, easy to paint than the usual Bandai HG </li>
<li>The final look is very impressive and nicely represents the original design from the novel</li>
<li>Early-MG engineering, less seam lines to address</li>
<li>ABS plastic </li>
<li>Accurate scaling - the kit is 19-20cm tall, that is accurate in the 1/144 scale of the original 32m height.</li>
<li>Extensive decal sheet that gives additional details and beauty to the model - you will be left with a lot of spare decals which you can use for other model projects.</li>
<li>Relatively cheap</li>
</ul>
<b>CON</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Some skewed details due to the casting methods used</li>
<li>Some fittings can be too tight, modifications might be required to get them perfectly aligned</li>
<li><b> </b>Omitted some gimmicks and details that was originally meant for the Penelope (i.e. shoulder cannons and funnel missile dispensers)</li>
<li>Limited articulation</li>
<li>Box is too big - if they divided the large parts into smaller snap-fit parts, it will only result to more runners and will not need styrofoam to protect any large parts making the packing more compact and reasonable. The box seems to have the same volume as the Mechanicore 1/100 version due which is technically unnecessary and could have been avoided</li>
<li>Sink Holes are present - sink holes are a parts in the plastic where the plastic droops and sinks down specially if there are snap-fit holes beneath it.</li>
<li>ABS plastic - yup, ABS is strong and cheap, but it can also be a disadvantage for small details as it is prone to sink holes if the casting is not done properly.</li>
</ul>
Also, this kit is not for a beginner. This kit is for intermediate builders and snap-builders. Beginners might accidentally destroy details or parts. Another thing I would like to say: <b>this is not a snap-build-only kit</b>, also <b>painting is a highly recommended.</b> This is a kit that demands and calls for plastic modelling skills, it is a beautiful mobile suit and simple snap building and simple panel-lining will not do the Peneleope any justice. Painting it will be the best way to bring it to life.<br />
If you will just be snap-building, I suggest getting the Mechanicore 1/100 version - that kit is just the beast and I believe so far the best model kit based on the Penelope, even if left unpainted. <br />
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<h4>
Rating</h4>
For a 3rd party kit, it is even better comparing with my experience with Dragon Momoko's Tallgeese III, so I give this (scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the highest):<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">7/10</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Stay tuned for the better photos :D</span> </span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-399470345251566582015-09-10T06:04:00.001-07:002015-09-10T08:37:26.619-07:00[Unboxing] Tamiya 1/35 Panzer Kampfwagen IV Ausf.D<h2>
Achtung!</h2>
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どうも!<br />
As I get tired of GunPla, I decided that it is time to do something more realistic, let's check out this tank. I present to thee, the Panzer IV!<br />
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<h4>
Some 'Foreword '</h4>
When I was younger, I initially was interested to build model kits, specially the military armor ones or the AFV kits. Unfortunately, I never had the finances and the tools to execute such activity properly. GunPla gave me some access to an easier alternative to PlaMo with its snap-build engineering. But then again, GunPla, even if you paint or customize it, will get pretty boring and uninspired, whatever you do. This is because, GunPla is sci-fi - fiction. It's technically something that represents something that does not exist in real life or WILL NOT exist probably for the next 30-100 years from now. Part of my philosophy in building PlaMo is <i>realism</i> or at least apply the most realistic-effect concepts in a model. Yes, you can apply 'realism' (i.e. weathering, shading, etc) in GunPla but the fact still remains, it does not exist in real life - nice to look at but it doesn't really have that 'human' connection in our current society. Now to hit that empty spot in my heart, I decided to park my small GunPla backlog, and decided to do this. This is the Panzer IV version D. As a child, my main image and profile of a tank are these German tanks from WWII. I really really like the design and its eventual effectivity in real life. For me, building a model tank is going to be a very fun project because I know that I will be building something that existed, something that was part of the human race's history. In building model AFVs, the main point to observe is also realism. It demands the builder/modeller to truly research about the subject; to not only study the tank itself but also to study the effects of nature and external factors to the subject in real life. It also challenges you to emulate all conditions it was in when it was in the field. The call to do the most accurate realistic effects on something that existed before is very enticing and something that will only make one's modelling skills go a step higher. With this project, I am aiming to make something I was never able to pull off before, something great! I hope I can also inspire everyone not just to stay as a 'snap-builder' but rather invest in becoming a <b>builder</b>.<br />
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<h4>
Short Info about the kit</h4>
The kit I picked is based on a tank that I really liked and had a connection to even when I was a child. It is the <b>Panzer Kampfwagen IV Ausführung D</b>. Roughly translated it means <i>Armored Field/Fighting Wagon/Vehicle IV version D</i>. The Panzer IV, even though part of the Lightning Tactics, was not originally the main battle tank of the <i>German Wehrmacht</i> during WWII. It was supposed to be the Panzer III but due to failure in upgrading it in time, the Panzer III got sidelined eventually, and the Panzer IV with its better offensive capabilities took center stage and even saw action up until the end of the war along with the newer tank releases at that time. This kit I got is made by Tamiya, one of the renowned PlaMo companies in the world. The kit itself is an old one, originally released on 1977 but just continued to be re-released and re-tooled but still one of the best kits for the said model of the tank. The kit is based on an early version of the Panzer IV, specifically the Model D or <i>Ausf.D</i> which is considered a <i>pre-series</i> model. These pre-series models of the Panzer IV were basically test beds for concepts but technically models like this Ausf.D are already widely employed during the early parts of the war and the Ausf.D is already as effective as it was intended to be. If my research is correct, the Panzer IV only reached its 'production series' status when it reached the E or F variant which made the Panzer IV even more effective in battles.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eVyT4wJ2EaU/VfFpDO0s2-I/AAAAAAAABiw/MK3hu0QobV8/s1600/panzerIV_steppe_early%2Bcolour.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="236" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eVyT4wJ2EaU/VfFpDO0s2-I/AAAAAAAABiw/MK3hu0QobV8/s400/panzerIV_steppe_early%2Bcolour.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture from hobbyhavoc.com</td></tr>
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The picture above is the Panzer IV Ausf.D which is where the kit is based on. It has the biggest gun in the first parts of the war, sporting a 75mm short-barrel, turret-mounted gun. Later versions of the Ausf.D were fitted an extra layer of 30mm plate armors on vital locations on the hull. The Panzer IV's were also widely employed in battlefield that is saw campaigns in Poland, France, Balkans and in Africa. And I know everyone can relate why I chose the Panzer IV, it is just a good-looking tank :)<br />
Now let's look what kit has to offer.<br />
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<h4>
The Presentation</h4>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top/Front Box Art</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OyYW56f1-14/VfFtbyueTpI/AAAAAAAABk4/jaaAuKJnmi0/s1600/20150909_145601.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OyYW56f1-14/VfFtbyueTpI/AAAAAAAABk4/jaaAuKJnmi0/s400/20150909_145601.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side 1</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9uGbTjKMODM/VfFtoZvL3tI/AAAAAAAABlY/3vT4sP2dI3w/s1600/20150909_145719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9uGbTjKMODM/VfFtoZvL3tI/AAAAAAAABlY/3vT4sP2dI3w/s400/20150909_145719.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side 2</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a5SYWXgR0_A/VfFtlQrXY9I/AAAAAAAABlQ/bR_IesaE6ik/s1600/20150909_145634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a5SYWXgR0_A/VfFtlQrXY9I/AAAAAAAABlQ/bR_IesaE6ik/s400/20150909_145634.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side 3<br />
The kit was purchased for Php998 (Philippine Peso)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A2TI5NKayoY/VfFuyuDWG1I/AAAAAAAABlg/foY-8p6UV10/s1600/20150909_145655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A2TI5NKayoY/VfFuyuDWG1I/AAAAAAAABlg/foY-8p6UV10/s400/20150909_145655.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side 4</td></tr>
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*This side shows other kits based on the same Panzer IV chassis. As the war progressed, they used the same Panzer IV chassis on different application, specially for some self-propelled artillery weapons and some Sturm/Assault AFVs. These are actually something to consider in future projects.<br />
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I am not entirely sure if the kit I got was the re-tooled release of the kit, but I discovered that this one is manufactured here in the Philippines and I believe they only opened a factory here in the Philippines almost only a decade later. It is mostly likely made here in Tamiya's Philippine-based factory but I am not sure if they used the re-tooled casting molds but aside from the flash present in the plastic parts, the details are practically crisp.<br />
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<h4>
Parts Count</h4>
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The kit includes:<br />
<ul>
<li>2 vinyl tracks</li>
<li>1 separate piece for the lower hull</li>
<li>2 sets of poly caps</li>
<li>1 sheet of water-slide decals</li>
<li>2 sheets of instruction manuals</li>
<li>4 plastic runners/sprues for the parts</li>
</ul>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner A</td></tr>
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Runner A predominantly contains the wheels (road, idler, drive sprocket, etc) of the tank.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aos34X-EDGw/VfFsxUwvslI/AAAAAAAABj4/Uo6W8_H_dRo/s1600/20150909_150324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aos34X-EDGw/VfFsxUwvslI/AAAAAAAABj4/Uo6W8_H_dRo/s400/20150909_150324.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner B</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Runner B contains the parts for the upper hull and the turret. Also contains the parts for the figure for the tank commander.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mndrQ9tg1Ck/VfFsytskPdI/AAAAAAAABkA/qK2eMqXHckQ/s1600/20150909_150357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mndrQ9tg1Ck/VfFsytskPdI/AAAAAAAABkA/qK2eMqXHckQ/s400/20150909_150357.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner C</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Runner C contains other parts specially for the stowage, tools, and other filigree parts.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iE3vR4khUQo/VfFs5BGLfqI/AAAAAAAABkI/ot5hfhDPhp0/s1600/20150909_150513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iE3vR4khUQo/VfFs5BGLfqI/AAAAAAAABkI/ot5hfhDPhp0/s400/20150909_150513.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Runner D</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Runner D just continues with the miscellaneous parts. Also contains the figures for the tank driver and loader.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bDu__cQTQu8/VfFsmSGTAUI/AAAAAAAABjo/C22MyJFOFPM/s1600/20150909_150031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bDu__cQTQu8/VfFsmSGTAUI/AAAAAAAABjo/C22MyJFOFPM/s400/20150909_150031.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lower Hull</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Most tank kits usually has the lower hull casted separately and not on a sprue.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9AGU7DIeF10/VfFslpKMFwI/AAAAAAAABjg/Vrjtzot7Ehg/s1600/20150909_150109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9AGU7DIeF10/VfFslpKMFwI/AAAAAAAABjg/Vrjtzot7Ehg/s320/20150909_150109.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Not quite sure but I believe you can motorized these models<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y5xJfokc8hQ/VfFsrK0RhaI/AAAAAAAABjw/NxB2oLLIGco/s1600/20150909_150136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y5xJfokc8hQ/VfFsrK0RhaI/AAAAAAAABjw/NxB2oLLIGco/s320/20150909_150136.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
But I won't put any motors in this kit so I guess I will have to putty those wholes up. Too bad, there could've been more details there as well - well not that we get to see it anyway.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EbvDMcuxfc4/VfFtDIVmLdI/AAAAAAAABkY/YCfCevtyrZU/s1600/20150909_150713.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EbvDMcuxfc4/VfFtDIVmLdI/AAAAAAAABkY/YCfCevtyrZU/s320/20150909_150713.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poly-caps and Decal Sheet</td></tr>
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The decal sheet contains the usual Balkenkreuze markings plus the division numbers which you can use depending on what particular frontier of the war you are basing the model on. We also get 2 sets of poly caps. These will be used for the wheels as they are meant to be detachable to allow easy painting and attachment of tracks later on.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1ljWTW8I5kU/VfFsMkxgR_I/AAAAAAAABjA/mEp5gJLN-xs/s1600/20150909_145929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1ljWTW8I5kU/VfFsMkxgR_I/AAAAAAAABjA/mEp5gJLN-xs/s400/20150909_145929.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vinyl Tracks</td></tr>
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With this coming as an old kit, it includes a vinyl-molded tracks.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X2C-Mcx2VVQ/VfFsbJn1FeI/AAAAAAAABjQ/dtQ63DnQwTc/s1600/20150909_145953.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X2C-Mcx2VVQ/VfFsbJn1FeI/AAAAAAAABjQ/dtQ63DnQwTc/s400/20150909_145953.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
A lot of modellers in the net usually go for a workable set of tracks - one that you build yourself, track link by track link. But I am kind of curious on how to work with these parts. I am actually still deciding on whether getting a separate kit for the tracks but depending on the availability of such after-market parts, I have yet to see for myself.<br />
Another thing that the modelling community says about the tracks of this kit is that it does not represent the correct tracks that the Ausf.D particularly used in its service. These are basically the 40cm tracks that included the features for threading over snow. The Ausf.D used only the 38cm ones and the 40cm ones were basically only installed on the Ausf.E. I know this sounds too OCD, but nonetheless, it adds to the fun of pursuing realism with this line of PlaMo.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lewWrxdYvcM/VfFsdSEViHI/AAAAAAAABjY/30Q7EGFAP3k/s1600/20150909_145843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lewWrxdYvcM/VfFsdSEViHI/AAAAAAAABjY/30Q7EGFAP3k/s400/20150909_145843.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Instruction/Assembly Manuals</td></tr>
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The kit has 2 manuals, 1 with Japanese texts and 1 with English-Deutsche texts. Both technically contains the same contents. Both gives helpful hints and basics on building such kits. They also provide nice information about the tank itself to get you started about the historical background of the tank and where and when it was used. It also provides the color call-outs that will be used (all in Tamiya Acrylics).<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UNYGQzgm8_A/VfFtRedF8wI/AAAAAAAABkw/JZKzv8Q_vME/s1600/20150910_182511.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UNYGQzgm8_A/VfFtRedF8wI/AAAAAAAABkw/JZKzv8Q_vME/s400/20150910_182511.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
Another good thing that the manuals provide is the options you can build this into. This kit was primarily based on the <i>Early Version</i> of the Ausf.D - basically the version that was used on the Polish and French Campaigns but you can also construct it in its <i>Late Version<b> </b></i>and in its <i>Afrika Korps</i> version. The manual will guide you to what parts to put in depending on the version and also what color and decals to use which is kind of handy if you want to be accurate.<br />
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So far, these are all there is in the box for the kit. I am excited to put this together and we'll see how I will do with this project. Stay tuned for the WIP series for this project :D<br />
<br />
<h4>
P.S.</h4>
Here is the kit taking a bubble bath in preparation for assembly. LOL.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zKVxkjYKj-Q/VfGjq7Vih6I/AAAAAAAABmU/LsUWMwZ6EMY/s1600/20150909_151522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zKVxkjYKj-Q/VfGjq7Vih6I/AAAAAAAABmU/LsUWMwZ6EMY/s320/20150909_151522.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-67803679891176493482015-08-25T03:41:00.000-07:002015-08-26T05:45:12.472-07:00[Unboxing] WAVE 1/20 SK362 Panzer Spahwagen OSKAR (25mm Linear Gun type)<h2>
Das Panzer!</h2>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AAlkL4h63ac/VdwfixORVZI/AAAAAAAABdo/H3OBXbb-Exk/s1600/20150824_224233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AAlkL4h63ac/VdwfixORVZI/AAAAAAAABdo/H3OBXbb-Exk/s320/20150824_224233.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
どうも!<br />
After 2 weeks of waiting, I finally received my, probably, most awaited kit ever in my plamo hobby.<br />
Check out the unboxing I made!<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
<h4>
What is this exactly?</h4>
This kit is from the Maschinen Krieger (or originally SF3D) series. Specifically, this kit is the <i>1/20 SK362 Panzer Spahwagen OSKAR (25mm Linear Gun type)</i> under faction named <i>Strahl Demokratische Republik </i>or, I think, roughly translated as <i>Democratic Republic of Strahl</i>.<br />
<h4>
Maschinen Krieger?</h4>
Yes, or as it is popularly known, <b>Ma. K.</b> - originally titled as SF3D (as it was titled in its first media in magazines) it eventually took this name after some issues with intellectual rights and other stuff I am not aware of.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uYkpKD0H8pc/VdwiagOe0zI/AAAAAAAABd0/nxKUE-sV5z4/s1600/3_Mak_004_main.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="345" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uYkpKD0H8pc/VdwiagOe0zI/AAAAAAAABd0/nxKUE-sV5z4/s400/3_Mak_004_main.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture taken from sentinel-toys.com<br />
http://www.sentinel-toys.com/catalog/images/products/3_Mak_004_main.jpg</td></tr>
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I am not fully knowledgeable but the main lore basically follows a post-apocalyptic setting (following a so-called great war). The series was created by Yokoyama Kou or <i>Kow Yokoyama</i>, and the first designs were made by him. Ma.K. is generally serialized in kit-form, the other media serialization (i.e. stories, etc) only came after. The designs were basically scratch-built using spare parts from other plastic kits (car, military armor and aircraft scale model kits) and incorporating other plastic materials like plastic egg shells, pingpong balls and Yakult bottles. Novices like me will have the first impression that this basically is somehow also steampunk-ish which is partly true as it is the general feel but of course it is a tad more hi-tech than that due to its more streamlined looks. One will also notice that the designs are predominantly titled like the German armor during WWII which adds to its cool-factor. For me, overall Ma.K. is a true synergy of military scale modelling and sci-fi, not only design-wise but also in how you build it.<br />
<h4>
Little Info about SF3D/Ma.K.</h4>
It originally surfaced in the plamo world around the 1980s and quickly garnered a proper following of fans predominantly in Japan. Kits, at first, were mass-produced by a company called <b>Nitto</b>. But due to some issues in legalities and other concerns, the release of new kits or reprints of current ones was not as regular as we would expect (not like Bandai which you can expect a reprint of kits in a few months after). New stocks are known to stop coming out and it became hard to predict when the next batches will come in, left alone the question of when new designs will be released. I believe these issues also led to Nitto kind of dropping Ma. K. as a whole until the company closed a while later. The Ma.K. franchise, fortunately, did not die, as license was acquired by, I would say, a better plamo kit company, <i>Hasegawa</i>. Continuing from where Nitto left off, the proceeded to churn out better kits using better technology and engineering which led to better products. Another company that I feel is a great Ma.K. competitor is WAVE Corporation (the one that made this specific kit). They have, relatively, recently just got into the Ma. K. business and now reviving and improving the Nitto kits from their graves letting people like me get to enjoy kits they had during the late 80s or early 90s. But just to note: Ma.K. kits are still not like as regular as we will think of kits like that of Bandai's. To me, they are more like <i>P-Bandai</i> in which they are still not part of a regular run and stocks will only be good for a few months. Fans will say that if you catch news of a new kit or a reprint of a kit will be released, make sure to pre-order or at least get one as soon as possible because once it goes out of the shelves, who knows when they will be sold again (you might probably find some in the net but it will sold at higher than normal prices). I am guessing this probably due to the cost of licensing wherein they also have to pay royalties to Yokoyama-sensei fore every kit they will sell. I got into Ma.K. relatively late and there are already a lot of designs that I might no longer be able to find anywhere. Oh by the way, there are also other ones that make Ma. K. kits. Companies like Love Love Garden, Brickworks and Hexamodel has, I would say, more regular releases. The only problem is that they are usually <i>garage kits</i> or in other words, resin kits - either consisting of figures, conversion kits or full kits that will be around 2x-3x the price of plastic injection kits which is to be expected of urethane resin kits. But those GKs are well-made and probably will be worth a true model builder's money.<br />
So now, let's jump to the in-box review itself.<br />
<h4>
The presentation</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sRA2kfbk5-I/VdwtU2fvDnI/AAAAAAAABeI/fvUkv_mbmo4/s1600/20150825_150937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sRA2kfbk5-I/VdwtU2fvDnI/AAAAAAAABeI/fvUkv_mbmo4/s400/20150825_150937.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main box art</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JaT_ei9Ac_A/Vdw9a1Es0DI/AAAAAAAABhU/Izp6Ps7Wtq8/s1600/20150824_224357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JaT_ei9Ac_A/Vdw9a1Es0DI/AAAAAAAABhU/Izp6Ps7Wtq8/s320/20150824_224357.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Tamiya kit for size reference (if that would help)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
SF3D/Ma.K. kits are usually presented like this. Brown/tan box with minimalist approach in text, sporting a seemingly hand-painted artwork to feature the design for painting reference as well.<br />
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The bottom of the box has some background information on the design and gives a part of the lore that surrounds this specific model.<br />
Overall, the box itself looks like a military correspondence which basically sets this series apart from the others.<br />
<h4>
Parts Count</h4>
Like most military armor kits, one should expect that there will only be a few runners in the box:<br />
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There are only 3 main plastic bags for a total of 10 sprues/runners, if I counted it correctly.<br />
First, the most prominent part of the kit:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vb8hZIMRTmI/VdwzsYgdsQI/AAAAAAAABfU/Gh6I60GEAg4/s1600/20150825_151429.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vb8hZIMRTmI/VdwzsYgdsQI/AAAAAAAABfU/Gh6I60GEAg4/s400/20150825_151429.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main shell/hull</td></tr>
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Like most tanks, we have here the main shell/hull. Given the 1/20 scale, this will be the biggest part. It will also be interesting to note that the OSKAR was meant to be an unmanned tank and so relative to another Ma. K. vehicle like the <i>Nut Cracker</i>, it will be smaller - which makes me more intrigued with the other Ma. K. tank/vehicles out there.<br />
<br />
The 2nd plastic bag is also worth noting:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--rj_BBXXi8k/Vdw1SIa6qXI/AAAAAAAABfc/V_5n8V1cVQM/s1600/20150825_151519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--rj_BBXXi8k/Vdw1SIa6qXI/AAAAAAAABfc/V_5n8V1cVQM/s400/20150825_151519.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2nd plastic bag</td></tr>
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The plastic bag is a relatively softer plastic compared to the other bags and also, it is only sealed in with staple wires. In technically contains the 'turret' or head of this kit and also an included figure. Clear parts and polycaps are also in this bag. Here are the runners unpacked:<br />
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The parts are clean enough, no flash or sink-holes, ejection marks are also manageable if not hidden. I am assessing easy cleanup if necessary.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jYJOYGXkgCc/Vdw2HMVvrAI/AAAAAAAABfo/-rnXoxgJC-E/s1600/20150825_151725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jYJOYGXkgCc/Vdw2HMVvrAI/AAAAAAAABfo/-rnXoxgJC-E/s400/20150825_151725.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure sprue</td></tr>
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I also investigated over this specific bag and found this on the sprues. </div>
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Yes, these are the original Nitto sprues from the 80s. Info from the community says that WAVE acquired the original casting molds and re-tooled or cleaned them and still used them for this model kit. They also did this for other Ma. K. kits that they released, categorizing them under NITTO+WAVE series of kits.<br />
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Polycaps and clear parts are also included<br />
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For the below, we have the 'turret' or head of this tank. <br />
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Again, this is from the old Nitto kits, and specifically it belongs to the Neuspotter kit. The community says that you could actually build the Neuspotter from this OSKAR kit and just scratch-build other parts not included. Note these sprues/runners uses old casting technology and so puttying will be needed to close seamlines as the slide-casting method is not yet used by Nitto back then.<br />
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Overall, the first bag is a 'repacked' bag. WAVE basically used something from the past and added their own flavor to it, which is a good thing for a lot of Ma.K. enthusiasts.<br />
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Here are the contents of the 2nd bag.<br />
Basically, it contains the parts that are original WAVE parts or probably the improved version of the casting molds used by Nitto before. I believe these runners are cleaner compared to the 1st bag's contents.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FaSdQTfJVqc/Vdw618UQV-I/AAAAAAAABgs/EXugSe2s4TM/s1600/20150825_152205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FaSdQTfJVqc/Vdw618UQV-I/AAAAAAAABgs/EXugSe2s4TM/s400/20150825_152205.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hull's underside</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The parts are also using the current casting methods with means it will offer the least cleanup and probably zero seamlines to putty up. Overall, the casting is very clean, no flashes detected.<br />
<h4>
Detail-up Parts</h4>
The kit in general also includes parts that will give the kit its intended look when finished.<br />
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We have rubber hosing and brass rods that will be cut and bent to shape for use with details. Guides for cutting and shaping the rods and hosing are included in the instructions in 1:1 scale.<br />
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Like a normal military armor kit, PE (photo-etched) parts are also included for the grills in the under side of the hull.<br />
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And of course, again, like a military armor kit, it has water-slide decals. You will just have to choose what paint scheme you will use and use that as reference use the corresponding markings (depending on the military regiment you will follow). This makes me think: this kit is priced like a modern Bandai MG kit - now why can't Bandai just include water-slides decals on every MG kit?<br />
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<h4>
Extras</h4>
Of course, we will need the instruction manual. Otherwise, we won't know how to build it.<br />
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There are only a few stage and in terms of assembly. This is unlike Gunpla where it holds your hands as you assemble the kit. Assembly is just a small percentage of the kit; painting and making it realistic is the main point of military armor kits like this.<br />
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And lastly, faithful to the spirit of Ma.K. kits, we have the color scheme card. These are basically collectibles in their own right. These are also guides on which color schemes you can choose from (including the decals you will use). One thing about these cards, I think you could buy online a book or a binder that has all these cards if you want to collect them :D<br />
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*you could also get other detail-up parts to make the OSKAR much more interesting. However, these are usually resin conversion kits and is basically out of my reach. <br />
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
Final Words</h4>
For me, this specific kit is a very well-made kit. Everything is cleanly casted and will surely be fun to build. WAVE surely puts up a good competition in the Ma.K. world with their releases by sticking on to the real spirit of Ma.K. and updating it to provide a better building experience. I am actually looking forward to getting their other kits while still available, and definitely looking forward to other revivals and new kits they will release in the coming months (they are releasing almost every month so far). I would definitely recommend Ma.K. to modellers (not only from WAVE but also from others like Hasegawa) specially from the military armor line as I have seen thru the works of the Ma.K. community members. I think, however, that most Gunpla builders will not like Ma.K. that much due to the skill-level it requires and due to its motif. It also lacks the promotionary media (like Anime series to feature the desings) to get more fans to buy in but for those who already has the tools and skills for plastic modelling and love for sci-fi in general, you will find Ma.K. to be much for fulfilling than Gunpla. Also, due to the small fan-base of Ma.K., the community became a tightly-knit network of true builders that shares vital modelling tips and information that one Gunpla group can only dream of. I found the Ma. K. community always posting information and modelling techniques and inspiring finished works almost all of the time, instead of just stacks of boxes of untouched kits or just assembled toys panel-lined with markers. All in all, Ma.K. will bring the modeller in us to life.<br />
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I will also be doing an unboxing of the Tamiya Panzer IV in one of the pictures, so stay tuned for more :D<br />
Thanks for sticking around :D<br />
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PS<br />
If you are in the Philippines, you could get hard to find kits like this one thru <a href="https://www.facebook.com/genkipandastore?fref=ts" target="_blank">Genki Panda.</a><br />
They have been my go-to shop for Japanese-brand kits for quite some time now :D Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-62993999692524766892015-08-06T05:52:00.000-07:002015-08-06T05:52:25.126-07:00[Project][WIP] Penelope Ep5: Sealing and Finishing the MC Penelope<h2>
Penelope Gundoom WIP#5: Seal the Deal!</h2>
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どうも!<br />
It's now time to finally seal the hard work to its immortal state!<br />
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<h4>
Final Stage</h4>
The last log ended with the decalling of the kit. Again, this kit has a lot of decals (water-slides), Ver.Ka-level to be exact, which adds to the overall detailing of this model. And so, it is important to protect all the hard work you invested in this, from the paint up to the decals.<br />
But before proceeding to the final coat, I first sprayed another good coat of clear gloss coat over the models, specially on the decals. I used <b>Bosny Clear</b> to protect the decals with a clear lacquer coat.<br />
It also worth mentioning that I let the decals set first for at least <i>12 hours,</i> letting both the decals and the decal solutions I used to properly cure.<br />
<h4>
Sealing the Final Look</h4>
Once the final clear coat has cured (around 12 hours as well), it's time to seal everything in. Now, this sealer coat, or as the GunPla community like to call it, <b>top coat </b>will determine the final look of your model. Some will just leave the model as it is, smooth and glossy and some never do any top coating at all. For me, I treat GunPla as I would with military models. You should not make any military vehicle glossy or shiny whatever your reason may be. Being shiny in the middle of a battlefield will make you the main target of any enemy, at any range. Given so, for GunPla, 99% of the time I always go for a <i>flat </i>or <i>matte</i> finish. For this, I will need a flat clear coat.<br />
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For my recent GP02 MLRS build, I also used a flat finish for the main armor parts like is seen below:<br />
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I used a <b>decanted Bosny Flat Clear</b>, and sprayed it thru my airbrush to make a good and even finish.<br />
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Here is the sample of the finish again:<br />
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One thing to note is that when you will be finishing with a flat finish, your colors will tend to become <i>half a step brighter/lighter</i> than how it is while it is still glossy. This is just normal due to the matting/'flattener' pigments in the paint which tend to be whitish. With this in mind, this would also help you determine how subtle or evident you will want your shading to be while you are still in the painting stage. If you want a subtle shading at the end, you will have to blend the gradients even finer. If you want to make the shading more visible, adjust the gradient in such a way that the shadows will be darker.<br />
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Back to the flat finish. This time, instead of using Bosny's Flat Clear, I came upon another flat finish you can use for your models.<br />
There's this hobby shop that set up a new branch near our place (<b>Fisher Mall, Quezon City, Philippines</b>). The shop is <b>JMN's Hobby</b> and I have been buying a lot of modelling tools and supplies for a few months now. Their main store or rather first store is located in Harrison Plaza (a mall). This mall is hard to commute to from my place so I usually have my products shipped to me for a very small price. But then they decided to cater to us hobbyists here in the North Metropolitan Manila area and now, I have a hobby shop that I can visit in person and get whatever I want. One of JMN's best offering is its <b>Alclad II </b>lacquers. JMN is an official distributor of Alclad products here in the Philippines, which is also mentioned in Alclad's website. I have bought all my Alclads from them since I started using Alclads. With the new branch opened, they also came with a new haul of Alclads for me to get. On my latest visit to the shop, I got a tamiya kit, hobby supplies and alclad products and luckily they now have a stock of the Alclad product that I have been waiting for:<br />
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<br />This is Alclad's <b>Klear Kote Flat</b>. I have seen this used by another youtuber/builder <i>vegeta8259</i> and he mentioned he liked the results of this product. I couldn't agree any better as the results he had were without any doubt great. From the results you will see later, I guess you will also agree why I will be making this product my main flat-coating supply from now on.<br />
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Some notes about the product:<br />
<ol>
<li>Alclad Klear Kote Flat is an <b>enamel</b>-based paint. The main carrier is 'mineral spirits', which is used for oil/alkyd-based paints. Also the bottle is not a glass bottle, rather just a plastic bottle like what Alclad <b>Gloss Black Base</b> uses (which is also an enamel).</li>
<li>Make sure to shake this product thoroughly before using it. The matting pigments tend to clump and settle at the bottom. Make sure to shake the bottle properly and make sure that the pigments will get broken down evenly as you want an even amount of matting pigments per load. </li>
<li>Due to its slower drying time, it is advised to apply your second coat (if you need to) after 10 minutes. 1 hour drying time is also recommended before handling the piece again. </li>
</ol>
Using those pointers, I loaded it up in my airbrush and sprayed away.<br />
This is the 'before':<br />
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Notice the evident shine and gloss of the part. Without the shading, it will look like a mere plastic piece. Using the Klear Kote Flat, here is the result:<br />
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With the flat coat, we killed the glossiness and turned it into something more realistically-looking, the way it should be for military armor units. I only used a single semi-thick coat and everything was looking great.<br />
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I first assembled the mobile suit in its <b>Odysseus Gundam</b> form, or in other words, the Penelope without the Minovsky Flight Craft System/Unit. I liked what I see so far, I might have to give myself a pat on the shoulders for a job well done so far :)<br />
Here are the crappy shots I took with my phone's cam under bad ambient lighting LOL:<br />
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I would say it looks pretty nice. I am really excited on putting the model in its final form, the Penelope.<br />
Next log will most likely be the Photo Ops shots of the finished model to wrap things up :D<br />
I hope this continues to share new things to people. If you'd still like to, stick around for the final reveal (and probably review) of the Penelope!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-38179401597205948602015-08-03T08:47:00.000-07:002015-09-03T02:34:16.828-07:00[Project][WIP] Penelope Ep4: Painting Session for the Model Comprehend RX-104 Penelope Gundoom<h2>
Penelope Gundoom WIP#4: Time to Paint!</h2>
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どうも!<br />
Last time, I sorted out the metallic parts of the build. Now it's time to do the rest - finally!<br />
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Modus Operandi Step 1: Priming</h4>
In my HG GP02 MLRS build, I used shading techniques which I really liked due to its final result. Given so, I decided that in all my future GunPla projects, shading will be mandatory - no more 'plain' painting. My main philosophy for this is that since people consider GunPla as a scale model and not a 'toy', doing shadings will make it more look less of a toy and more of a true scale model. So if you are reading this, don't just color it plain - do something special! (specially if you are sensitive to GunPla being called as a toy like a lot of people out there); all other model kits out there always require painting and post-painting methods, GunPla is so far one of the few model kit series that is more toy-like because it now spoils the builder to just snap-build it and do minimal painting making the builder stagnant in terms of skills and prevents one from becoming a better builder. Anyway, enough of my 'philosophy', I just really like shading as it makes the kit more realistic/life-like in any light conditions.<br />
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So anyway, first step as the picture above shows is of course to prime the parts. I already built and painted the inner frame with <b>DS Paint Gunmetal </b>as illustrated in the first WIP episode. Now for the outer armor, the parts were pre-assembled into more manageable portions that will not make painting difficult.<br />
For the <i>white, blue and grey parts</i>, I used <b>Alclad II Grey Primer and Microfiller:</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h2UKpRqOUZU/VbIsneROGeI/AAAAAAAABUY/bJyJaNpHW7E/s1600/20150724_195151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h2UKpRqOUZU/VbIsneROGeI/AAAAAAAABUY/bJyJaNpHW7E/s400/20150724_195151.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think I will need to stock on this one</td></tr>
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Alclad's Grey primer is of a light-grey color which will help me spot out imperfections on the plastic and enable me to fix them before painting, which I did due to Model Comprehend's way of casting (sub-Bandai quality I would say). Here are some pictures of the primed parts:<br />
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Now for <i>red parts</i>, I used <b>Alclad II White Primer and Microfiller</b> instead. Using grey or other colors as primer will mess the red color I will use (or any red paint in that matter). Just remember if you are going to paint a part <i>red</i>, always prime with <i>white</i>. Actually, the best primer for red is<i> Mr. Hobby (GSI) Base White 1000</i> as it will give the most flat white you will need to give the best red shade you are aiming for. I also saw one process to getting the best red, this is to prime <i>white,</i> then paint <i>pink,</i> then lastly paint the final <i>red</i> you desire. But for this, just a white primer will suffice.<br />
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One thing you have to note with Alclad's Whiter Primer (and also most of the white primers out there) is that they tend to be on the thin side, in which they still tend to show the original color underneath, specially red colors. This might have something to do with the pigments used in the plastic for red colors and how light interacts with the colors. The white-priming left me with a pink shade which is actually good for red colors.<br />
<h4>
Modus Operandi Step 2: Shading and Highlighting</h4>
In the shading process for my HG GP02 MLRS, I predominantly used <i>pre-shading</i> as my main method. Pre-shading just means painting areas where you want shadows to exist with a darker color (usually flat black) then paint it with your base color. The pre-shaded areas will produce a darker shade of the color your sprayed which will simulate shadowed areas no matter the light source. For the Penelope, I will use <b>highlighting</b> instead and just reserve pre-shading to the red parts. Highlighting is a technique where you will just paint the whole plastic with the <i>darker shade</i> first then just paint over it with the color you are aiming for, effectively highlighting the part and still produce shading. Here is are the examples:<br />
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For the <i>white</i> parts, I used <b>Bosny Dark Grey</b> as the base color:<br />
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The main trick in highlighting is to paint the larger surface areas more with the target color and just paint the areas near depressions (e.g. areas near panel lines) thinly. Here is a test-painting I did over a spoon (white over dark grey):<br />
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To ensure success, I used an airbrush with <b>0.2mm nozzle installed</b> as you will need precision and accuracy when doing any kind of shading to your build. For the white, I used <b>Bosny White</b>:<br />
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Here are the results of the white parts:<br />
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Next, the <i>blue </i>parts. For the blue parts, I used <b>Bosny Dark Blue</b> as the base color:<br />
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For the highlight, I mixed <b>Bosny White </b>and <b>Bosny Dark Blue</b> to create the lighter shade I am looking for. The same technique of spraying was done to highlight the blue parts.<br />
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Lastly, for the <i>red</i> parts, I just used <b>pre-shading</b>. This is to not distort the red color that much and just produce a shadow on selected areas of the parts. To pre-shade the parts, I again used <b>Bosny Black</b> and used <b>Nippon Paint Deep Red</b> as my red color:<br />
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<h4>
Modus Operandi Step 3:Something different</h4>
I tried to something different for some of the parts to add some 'personal touch' to entire build. I must admit, some succeeded and one particular part was not up to my expectation.<br />
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First the <b>bad</b> result. The part I kind of failed is the back-butt armor. I first highlighted it with <b>Bosny 'Primer' Grey</b> (yes, Bosny's primer-colored grey - not an actual primer), because I am aiming for a neutral grey sub-color. I then proceed to mask off some parts:<br />
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I then proceeded to highlight again using <b>Bosny White</b> which is my target color:<br />
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But when I removed the masking tape, this is the disappointing result:<br />
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I just realized that I put the masking too close to each other and they where too thick and uniform that it did not come out as I wanted it to be. I will need to do more research on patterns of this kind of pattern for my next projects.<br />
Disappointed as I was, I decided to keep the pattern and just softened it by highlighting the areas with a tint of Bosny White.<br />
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On the other hand, I achieved <b>good</b> results with some other parts, mainly the <b>blue parts</b>.<br />
Again, after the dark blue as base color, I masked off some areas of the parts:<br />
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I highlighted using the <b>Dark Blue + White</b> mix I said earlier<br />
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I then removed the masking tapes and here are the results. Looks better than I expected this time. I guess the main point in this type of pattern is that 'less is better'. I also think that if started off with a lighter blue instead of the dark blue, the stripes will look better.<br />
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Regardless of the results, doing this pattern enabled me to learn even more to painting plamo :)<br />
<h4>
Modus Operandi Step 4: Hand Painting</h4>
I won't be using stickers for this build and so hand painting is required specially for the small details the stickers were meant for. One particular part I would like to show here is the head.<br />
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The Penelope, as depicted in the box art, has red eyes (I think almost like the Gundam EZ-8). For this I hand painted the details as needed. For hand painting, I started to use <b>enamels</b>. I also use acrylics like the vallejo model color line but I now tend to use enamels due to their ease of use. Just to note, I used lacquer/solvent-based acrylics to paint the parts. Using enamels as the detailing paint will not re-activate the paint beneath it and helps me cleanup mistakes by just using paint thinner (mineral spirits). Enamels are known to have the best opaqueness even when just brushed. Enamels also work well with hand brushes and due to its relatively slower drying time, it actually has the best levelling property which results to a smooth finish with virtually no brush-stroke marks left. For the head (and I guess, generally for the whole Penelope), I only needed <b>black </b>and<b> red enamels </b>(Humbrol Enamel Gloss Black and Tamiya Enamel Red):<br />
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Using a fine brush, I proceeded in painting the head details to finally finish the head assembly.<br />
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All the head needs is a flat finishing coat and its gold parts.<br />
I also hand painted a few other parts to add more detail.<br />
<h4>
</h4>
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<h4>
Modus Operandi Step 5: Savepoint</h4>
With everything nice and painted, it's time to save my progress. Time to seal the paint with a clear coat. After a few days of curing, I next coated the parts with a clear gloss coat. In model building, this step is technically an optional step but one which I tend to do when painting plamo. Coating your painted parts with a gloss coat will provide your progress with a savepoint to protect your current state and to avoid damages in the future. The gloss coat will also help things up during washing (or pin-washing in this case) and decalling which will be the next steps for the build. But remember, if you are going to do this, make sure to let your paint cure for at least overnight just to be on the safe side.<br />
<br />
For the gloss varnish, I mainly used <b>Pledge Wipe & Shine</b> and <b>Vallejo Polyurethane Gloss Varnish</b>.<br />
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I usually use Pledge as it is a more sustainable method of gloss-coating (because it is easier to find and cheaper to purchase) but I decided to also use the Vallejo Gloss Varnish this time. I had this varnish in stock for some time now but I failed to 'tame' the first 3 times I attempted to use it. It always fail to shoot through my airbrush (I used Vallejo Airbrush Thinner) and it just gunks up my nozzle. I just learned recently that I only need a few drops of water to make this work and work it did, finally. Given so, I now have a main glossing agent for my future builds, but I still need to work out the best water-thinning ratio for this as too much water does not help either.<br />
Here is one example of the result of the gloss-coating:<br />
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<h4>
Modus Operandi Step 6: Pin-Washing</h4>
With the gloss coat on, it's time to do the washing or in this case, pin-washing. GunPla builders usually call this method <b>Panel Lining</b> or in verb form 'to panel-line'. In military armor modelling, it is referred to as <b>pin-washing </b>as you only precisely apply a washing agent to bring out the details of a model (like the panel lines or the places where armor panels meet) that are too small and have been obscured by the painting process. Casual GunPla builders, scour hobby shops and bookstores/office supply stores to look for <b>fine-tip pigment markers</b> or <b>Gundam Marker GM-01 </b>to <b>GM-03</b>. I also use an <b>Artline Pigment Marker (0.1 and .05 tips)</b>, but I only use them for very fine details that need accuracy and less cleanup. Also, using these fine-tip markers does not give the best looking results as more often, it will just make your GunPla look more toy-ish and cartoon-ish due to its too perfect lines. If you aim for convenience, I suggest using a <b>Gundam Gray Real Touch Marker</b> instead.<br />
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Okay, in the first place, you should not use a <i>black marker<b> </b></i>as a panel-liner specially on white parts as this will just make your GunPla look like a plastic toy and not a true model. Second, Real Touch markers have the soft and fine brush tips and the ink they carry is relatively thin. This results with the panel line looking more of a shaded area and less like a 'line that was drawn in a cartoon'. Also, cleanup after the Real Touch Marker is easier.<br />
<br />
But the real way to handle panel lines is thru pin-washing. For this we will need the help of enamels again, preferably <i>black </i>or a<i> dark german gray. </i>Like in all washing processes, you will just have to thin the enamel paint very thin that it is almost like water in consistency (but not too thin that the pigments start to break up). I like to use enamels or any oil-based paint for washing as it automatically rides the panel lines by itself using capillary action with just the tip of the brush touching the crevices. Again, using enamels for this helps make cleanup excesses easier. You could also use Tamiya's <b>Panel Accent Color </b>or <b>Mig Washes</b> for the same purpose.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OJG3QpXQx70/VbJOaDgv4BI/AAAAAAAABZM/BurqP-CdURs/s1600/87131_2_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="188" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OJG3QpXQx70/VbJOaDgv4BI/AAAAAAAABZM/BurqP-CdURs/s400/87131_2_3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo from Tamiya USA website</td></tr>
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<b> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x0QFIYYRf2A/VbJOuXWmAuI/AAAAAAAABZU/Wohv9vzw7Kk/s1600/P220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="257" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x0QFIYYRf2A/VbJOuXWmAuI/AAAAAAAABZU/Wohv9vzw7Kk/s400/P220.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo from Mig Web Shop</td></tr>
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</b>Just using a fine-tip brush will do the trick for all these.<br />
This time, I used both methods. For the white and some other parts, I used a <i>Grey Real Touch Gundam Marker</i>, since I like the way it adds another level of shading and weathering. For the blue parts, I used something different: <b>OIL PAINTS.</b><br />
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Yep, oil paints. Oil paints are similar to enamel paints in such a way that they are both oil-based paints. I also saw a lot of military armor scale modellers using <i>Abteilung Oil paints </i>as washes and filters. Others also use plain Artist's Oil Paints as washes and for streaking effects. But convenient as it may be, I feel that you should use <b>turpentine</b> if you are going to use oil paints. I tried using normal <i>paint thinner </i>but I think mineral spirits (aka paint thinners) are more effective when used on enamels (alkyd-based oil paints). I am saying this because it seems that artist's oil paints get broken down harder more severely by paint thinners than by turpentine. Nonetheless, it might have been just my mix - I need to do more trials to come up with a proper mix for wash using oil paints.<br />
One advantage of making your own washes, is that you can create any color that you want. Since the blue parts are dark blue, I wanted to try something different. I used these:<br />
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This is just White and Blue oil paints. I blended them together, roughly equal parts and diluted them using paint thinner (mineral spirits) to a very fluid but still relatively opaque consistency. Here is the result:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0M1CJ_IwpYU/Vb-H4ILFAEI/AAAAAAAABac/JkTH6LCE1Kc/s1600/20150726_162519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0M1CJ_IwpYU/Vb-H4ILFAEI/AAAAAAAABac/JkTH6LCE1Kc/s400/20150726_162519.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
This technically makes the panel lines 'glow' making it distinguishable over the dark shades and adds an interesting dimension to the parts. You might be able to use this same technique to make some 'minovsky' style lines or something. Once finished with the pin-wash, next should be the decals.<br />
<h4>
Modus Operandi Step 7: Decalling</h4>
Well, not exactly painting but it does add some more colors to your kit. This part is not that hard. You'll just need tap water, cotton buds, tweezers, cutters and to ensure good decal adhesion, I also used <b>Mr. Mark Setter </b>and <b>Mr. Mark Softer</b>.<br />
The only daunting thing about the decals of this kit is that it is Ver. Ka - level.<br />
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I forgot to take a pic of the decal sheet but it is roughly an A4-sized sheet like below (upper left corner of the photo):</div>
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Aside from that, putting the decals on should be routine and nothing special:</div>
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After all the decals, the next step will be finishing, which I will be doing in the next log.</div>
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I hope I was able to share something useful to you. Stick around for the next log as I finally finish this baby.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-64611130694977812492015-07-06T06:27:00.000-07:002015-07-06T06:27:38.464-07:00[TIP][DIY] Metallizing normal color paints with my 'Semen Sample'<h2>
How to 'metallize' your paint</h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZjIBACqsQc4/VZpjFynjCVI/AAAAAAAABSQ/BDeHHtvGHfQ/s1600/4f9c9d7a-5c33-409a-91a7-b3b326137f1f_300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZjIBACqsQc4/VZpjFynjCVI/AAAAAAAABSQ/BDeHHtvGHfQ/s1600/4f9c9d7a-5c33-409a-91a7-b3b326137f1f_300.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture from homedepot.com</td></tr>
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どうも!<br />
Here is a good tip for 'metallizing' your normal colored paint. I'll also teach you how to decant your paint from the spraycan for airbrushing.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
<h4>
Info about metallic paints</h4>
Simply speaking, metallic paints are just normal paints with a special metallizing particles mixed in it. Usually the finish for this type of paint are very glossy and shiny, with a kind of a 'metal' feel to it.<br />
The metal look is probably caused by the extra light being reflected by the metallizing particles in the paint.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X4QdkkXC2lg/VZpkvKixIPI/AAAAAAAABSc/s5fNnmlJJ2A/s1600/IMS559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X4QdkkXC2lg/VZpkvKixIPI/AAAAAAAABSc/s5fNnmlJJ2A/s1600/IMS559.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A sample of Metallic Blue<br />Picture from http://www.imsupplies.co.uk</td></tr>
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Sometimes, if the particles are fine enough, it may be loosely referred to as 'pearl' coating (I maybe wrong on this claim though). Pearl coating produces a good shiny, glossy and metallic finish and are usually achieved by using special paints as well.<br />
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Making pearl-ed paint colors is just a matter of adding an amount of 'pearl powder' to your batch of paint.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DRVmyI9Yy-w/VZpmmRrJbyI/AAAAAAAABSo/6fL4k5jkXjc/s1600/micro-pearl-powder-white-purple.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DRVmyI9Yy-w/VZpmmRrJbyI/AAAAAAAABSo/6fL4k5jkXjc/s1600/micro-pearl-powder-white-purple.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White pearl powder<br />http://www.robotines.com</td></tr>
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I don't have any pearl powder at my disposal and so I will just try to teach here how to get that metallic look that we all know.<br />
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<b>Note: </b>I have to say that the end product of this method is best suited for airbrush use.<br />
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<b>For this sample, I used the following 'ingredients' and tools:</b><b> </b><br />
<ul>
<li>Bosny Dark Blue (No. 28)</li>
<li><b> </b>Bosny White Pearl (No. 1130)</li>
<li>Drinking Straw</li>
<li>Masking tape</li>
<li>Solvent-resistant container (or glass jar just to be sure)</li>
</ul>
<h4>
Decanting Paint</h4>
Since I use spraycans as a source of my paint for airbrushing, here is the basic process for decanting paint for your airbrushing use.<br />
<br />
First step, firmly align and attach a short segment of drinking straw to nozzle of the spraycan. Here I used a drinking straw that we usually get from fastfoods (so now you know where to get an unlimited supply of straws for decanting purposes). Bendy straws are also advisable and might help in getting a cleaner decanting result.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7BUfsXP2Ulo/VZprpojHl9I/AAAAAAAABS4/amyBPw8_3VA/s1600/20150704_212453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7BUfsXP2Ulo/VZprpojHl9I/AAAAAAAABS4/amyBPw8_3VA/s400/20150704_212453.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fix and seal properly using masking tape</td></tr>
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Shake the can as you normally would do as preparation for the spraying process. This would ensure all pigments will be properly distributed over the carrier liquid. The next thing you will have to do is of course just spray into the container of your choice.<br />
When spraying the paint, I suggest <b>spraying in steady stream</b> and not in bursts. This will help you avoid a mess when as burst-spraying will displace any paint you already collected in the container.<br />
<br />
I usually take a break when it is half-filled to shake the spraycan and redistribute pigments inside.<br />
Look at that 'semen sample' I've just collected.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4qX_l4AWfbU/VZpuu6vFdvI/AAAAAAAABTE/ab8uIAIkx48/s1600/20150704_212518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4qX_l4AWfbU/VZpuu6vFdvI/AAAAAAAABTE/ab8uIAIkx48/s400/20150704_212518.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A nice amount of semen sample out in the open</td></tr>
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Using any stirring rod of your choice (mine is a thin skewer), stir the paint <b>very gently</b> for a few times.<br />
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Stirring the paint will help get rid of the aerosol/propellant mixed with the paint. Getting rid of the aerosol will ensure that the paint will not build up pressure while it is capped and in storage which might give you a surprise facial the next time you open the container. After this, shake the can again then continue ejecting the paint to your desired amount.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ADlNnufB1nY/VZp1qr2JkvI/AAAAAAAABTg/XnIM3ir7Z9M/s1600/20150704_213513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ADlNnufB1nY/VZp1qr2JkvI/AAAAAAAABTg/XnIM3ir7Z9M/s400/20150704_213513.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That's a lot of 'sample' in one session</td></tr>
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Once satisfied, I usually leave the container partially covered like above. I also placed the container in my spraybooth so that my exhaust fan can help purge both smell and aerosol from the vicinity. Technically, the paint is now <b>ready to use.</b> For my case, I stir the paint <b>every 15 minutes</b> for the next hour (i.e. stirring it 4 times in a span of an hour). Letting it sit for an hour will ensure that aerosol will pretty much gone and the stirring will help hasten the process. After an hour, your paint will also be ready for storage if needed.<br />
<b>A good advice when stirring the paint</b>: make sure to dip your stirring rod into the paint gently before actually stirring it. Sometimes, the paint is so dense that it tends to trap the aerosol within it. Introducing a foreign object might give that trapped air something to help it escape and will cause a <i>Mentos+Diet Coke </i>effect which is a complete mess and a waste of paint. Also, remember to always stir your paint gently. Now that the paint is out, time to use it!<br />
<h4>
Time to metallize</h4>
For this sample, I used <b>Bosny Dark Blue</b> for my base color. Sorry I forgot to snap a solo pic of the color by itself but I don't think it matters.<br />
Anyway, I loaded the paint into my airbrush and this is where the magic happens. Remember that I said before that you can use <b>pearl powder</b> for this? Well, since I don't have one, I used the paint I just decanted - <b>Bosny White Pearl.</b><br />
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<b> </b> <br />
Bosny's White Pearl paint is very translucent and so I thought that it will not change the shade of the base color that much. Using a pipette, I added several drops to the dark blue. I don't actually have ratio to follow. I just added the paint by eye as this was just a test but I guess if you're doing this for an actual project, you might want to set a number of drops to keep things consistent. Just remember, the more white pearl you add in, the more sparkly it will become. With the mix I have, I sprayed it and here is the result:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-36bCivVH1wg/VZp9nIY9cTI/AAAAAAAABT4/uK0r1uxhPUs/s1600/20150704_224756.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-36bCivVH1wg/VZp9nIY9cTI/AAAAAAAABT4/uK0r1uxhPUs/s400/20150704_224756.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
I actually liked the result for this. The result has the illusion that the metallized layer is beneath the blue color with blue just sprayed over it. I initially though that it would be like metallic particles evident on the paint surface but instead it resulted to this 'layered paint' look.<br />
Here is the comparison of metallic dark blue and the normal dark blue (left to right):<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-48Vtq5dd1KA/VZp_PXWL2MI/AAAAAAAABUE/5nuMjSra6Wg/s1600/20150706_142832_edited.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-48Vtq5dd1KA/VZp_PXWL2MI/AAAAAAAABUE/5nuMjSra6Wg/s400/20150706_142832_edited.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">LOL, you can see my reflection in to photo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As you can see, the dark blue's shade is not affected [that much] at all. It just added a new metallic layer to it thanks to the White Pearl added to the paint.<br />
<br />
Now you might asking, <i>why don't I just buy the ready to use Metallic Blue</i> <i>in the first place</i>? Well, that of course is up to you. So far, you might only get colors like Metallic Blue, Red, Green etc. But having this knowledge means you can turn virtually any opaque colored paint into a metallic one. You can choose any shade of color you like and turn it metallic. You can also control the level of metallization because you can control the amount of White Pearl in the mix. In short, this method will give you access to more color possibilities for your projects in the long run.<br />
<br />
Beside this, if you manage to get your hands on the pearl powder I mentioned, try it as well. It might produce better results than this.<br />
<br />
Hope you learned something from this - until next time! :DAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-19361296741995011092015-07-06T04:01:00.001-07:002015-07-24T03:59:29.408-07:00[Project][WIP] Penelope Ep3: Testing New Alclads for the Model Comprehend RX-104 Penelope Gundoom<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<h2>
Penelope Gundoom WIP#3: Paint Trial part 2</h2>
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どうも!<br />
Slow and easy does it, more paint trials - this time I tested my new Alclads!<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
As you guys already know, I am working on how to execute the candy-toning of the yellow parts of the Penelope I am building. So far, my now preferred process will be:<br />
<ol>
<li>Gloss black base layer</li>
<li>Alclad Polished Aluminum layer</li>
<li>Black Tint Pre-shading</li>
<li>Bosny Honda Yellow top-coat</li>
</ol>
Check out the 1st experiment I did <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/06/projectwip-simple-experiment-for-model.html" target="_blank">here</a>. <br />
But ever since then, (and while slacking around) I was able to get new Alclad II paints. One of them actually caught my attention.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dWrBbSHF2MI/VYParg5TYRI/AAAAAAAABLw/n2MHaeSCt8E/s1600/20150611_141422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dWrBbSHF2MI/VYParg5TYRI/AAAAAAAABLw/n2MHaeSCt8E/s400/20150611_141422.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Added to my Alclad supplies are the following (left to right):<br />
<ul>
<li>Duraluminum</li>
<li>Holomatic Spectral-Chrome</li>
<li>Black Chrome</li>
<li>Gloss Black Base</li>
<li>Gunmetal</li>
</ul>
<br />
Given so, I loaded each to my airbrush and here the results. Note that these are 'unbuffed' and these results are basically how it will look like once dry.<br />
<br />
<b>Gloss Black Base</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tMXDDBNQv4s/VYPbzCFLawI/AAAAAAAABL8/PBxCmgd3rrA/s1600/20150613_153350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tMXDDBNQv4s/VYPbzCFLawI/AAAAAAAABL8/PBxCmgd3rrA/s400/20150613_153350.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alclad Gloss Black Base</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As with normal candy-toning processes, you will need a good glossy black base. Well it doesn't necessary have to be black but a black backing for metallics appeals to me and helps me gauge if I already painted the metallics well enough or not. One thing worth noting about this is that it is <b>enamel-based</b>. Judging from its smell, opacity, carrier liquid, and levelling properties, I initially assumed it is enamel and later it was confirmed by my friend that it is indeed enamel (also confirmed in JMN Hobby Square where I bought this). Being enamel-based, it can be sprayed directly to the plastic even without an initial primer as it actually acts as the primer itself. Enamels are good priming agents next to lacquers and so you can also use this for projects that are aimed for glossy finishes. Other than priming, I am guessing it can be a good medium for <b>reverse-washing</b> - that painting method that became popular because of the Sinanju kits. This paint also recommends 24 hours or curing and cures to a smooth glossy finish. I primed all test spoons using this and proceeded to paint over them with the other metallics.<br />
<br />
<b>Duraluminum</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NG2cF06S2Io/VYPfelV8aqI/AAAAAAAABMU/C9YpUppOEW8/s1600/20150619_155528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NG2cF06S2Io/VYPfelV8aqI/AAAAAAAABMU/C9YpUppOEW8/s400/20150619_155528.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alclad Duraluminum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I actually already saw this paint used before and I said I just have to have it in my supplies. It's actually a darker shade of the normal aluminum and it actually finishes to a matte texture (at least that is how it ended on my tests), but still keeps that very 'raw' metallic look (not gloss) which I like. I tried to buff it but the surface is so tough that I don't think it will buff the way I expect it to. One thing to note is that it doesn't actually recommend using a gloss black - it just needs the normal surfacer-primers which is kind of logical since it will not result to a glossy finish after all.<br />
<br />
<b>Gunmetal</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-17dKjrWVyM8/VYPhtJepUmI/AAAAAAAABMc/qkQWWvzXlac/s1600/20150619_155400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-17dKjrWVyM8/VYPhtJepUmI/AAAAAAAABMc/qkQWWvzXlac/s400/20150619_155400.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alclad Gunmetal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b> </b>First thing to note is that this, like the Duraluminum, does not need a glossy base. It actually finishes matte. I was actually expecting something else but this became interesting. The paint itself is a black base with metal particles in it. The result is predominantly black with subtle amounts of metal particles resulting to a 'dark gunmetal' color. Not sure what 'gun' this metallic color is based on but this is one interesting color I might use for painting armor model kits or grunt mobile suits (and their weapons).<br />
<br />
<b>Black Chrome</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2SHMlPLn4T8/VYPjRNRm2fI/AAAAAAAABMo/H5MIp7KuJhs/s1600/20150619_155451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2SHMlPLn4T8/VYPjRNRm2fI/AAAAAAAABMo/H5MIp7KuJhs/s400/20150619_155451.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alclad Black Chrome</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b> </b>JMN Hobby Square didn't get a shipment of Chrome during the time I bought new paints, but they did have this. I really, really like this color. It may not have the same flexibility (in terms of uses) as the normal Chrome one, but this color will have beautiful applications in my future projects. Unbuffed, it already has a nice mirror finish and possesses that dark chrome color and shine that people might find interesting.<br />
<br />
<b>Holomatic Spectral-Chrome</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F6SSEAN84Dc/VYPfNaHDqcI/AAAAAAAABMM/ve7GQ7HZ0tU/s1600/20150619_155612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F6SSEAN84Dc/VYPfNaHDqcI/AAAAAAAABMM/ve7GQ7HZ0tU/s400/20150619_155612.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alclad Holomatic Spectral-Chrome</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Now this one is the main reason I got these new paints. I found how this finishes when used on lexan. I am not yet sure if this is buffable but I'll see after it cures (24 hours is recommended by Alclad). You can spray this over Chrome or Polished Aluminum or you could just use the ordinary Black Base. I think it really is supposed to be more of a tinting or special coating to be sprayed over high-shine metallics which gives that <b>holomatic</b> or something that causes light to separate into 7 colors as it bounces from its surface. Now this is something I will want to see candy-toned!<br />
<br />
<b>Extra: Polished Aluminum</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z3P5AQjTuNM/VYPqMW3xGPI/AAAAAAAABM4/LIlyJbcyTBw/s1600/20150619_155652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z3P5AQjTuNM/VYPqMW3xGPI/AAAAAAAABM4/LIlyJbcyTBw/s400/20150619_155652.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alclad Polished Aluminum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b> </b>I just decided to do another test using the one and this time making it cleaner that the first test I did. I will then compare this to the holo-chrome results after candy-toning.<br />
<h4>
Results</h4>
I've lined up here the results for Holo-Chrome, Polished Aluminum and Black Chrome (left to right).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o-lI64H1O-M/VZpYbEAR58I/AAAAAAAABRg/tGhnAmkz8Uk/s1600/20150620_154802_edited.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o-lI64H1O-M/VZpYbEAR58I/AAAAAAAABRg/tGhnAmkz8Uk/s640/20150620_154802_edited.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fucked up the Polished Aluminum test case</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I again sprayed Bosny's Black Tint as pre-shading for the Holo-Chrome and the Polished Aluminum but it is evident that I screwed the preshading for the Polished Aluminum. I must added too much thinner LOL.<br />
<br />
I was actually disappointed on the results of the Holo-Chrome. While it preserved its vibrance, the holo effect was dumbed down. My phone's camera can no longer capture it and you will have to look close to it (or place it under a focused source of lighting) for one to just see a hint of it. (Maybe I should've sprayed a couple coats of Wipe and Shine before the clear yellow).<br />
<br />
Disappointed as I was with the holo-chrome, the Black Chrome came out surprisingly great. It produced a kind of 'polished gold' finish. What even more surprising is that it has this kind of <b>self-shading</b> property in which parts where light can directly touch will produce a bright and shiny luster will keeping an evident black tint to other parts away from the light source. This is the kind of shading I am looking for since I no longer have to pre-shade parts as the blackness of the chrome will take care of it. Given so, I decided to use Black Chrome for the small parts of the build.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PYJ2OZ9iEZQ/VZpb8WuWPmI/AAAAAAAABRs/CN2KFSP_v2Q/s1600/20150620_154950.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PYJ2OZ9iEZQ/VZpb8WuWPmI/AAAAAAAABRs/CN2KFSP_v2Q/s400/20150620_154950.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Here are the vents and other small yellow parts painted with Gloss Black. Pardon the shitty handmade mounting sticks I used.<br />
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Now here are the V-fins after the candying process. Simple but effective.<br />
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Now, even with my now strong preference towards Black Chrome, I still have plans for the holo-chrome. I plan to use it for the bigger parts as it might have better results on parts with a larger surface area, so let's see.<br />
<br />
Now that's out of the way, I can finally move forward and paint the other armor parts.<br />
Here they are, waiting for me, all primed and ready.<br />
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This will keep me busy for days and/or weeks and so, until my next update. Thank you for the visit! :DAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-55210932128080786302015-06-17T08:00:00.001-07:002015-06-17T08:00:11.029-07:00[DIY][Project] Spraybooth for Airbrushing<h2>
Field of Operations</h2>
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どうも! <br />
It was a holiday last Friday (June 12, 2015), but instead of proceeding with my current project (MC Penelope), I decided to build something else.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
<h4>
Black Box</h4>
For some months since I have started airbrushing, I have set my main airbrushing booth using a relatively huge black plastic tub or box (similar to the picture above). It was nothing special at all. It's just a tub turned on its side. I just lined the bottom and sides with kitchen filter and scratch paper and fixed a movable lamp on the side to light the inside. I have my painting sessions on a relatively open-air area (roofed), specifically on our small receiving area. It is nice since it has enough ventilation and I don't have to worry about dirtying the place up as the place is relatively easy to clean. The only problem is that this setup is kind of cumbersome in more aspects than its benefits can offer.<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>The box is huge and it does not score well in terms portability. For a long time, I wanted to have a spraybooth that can be moved from one place to another easily - this box is not compliant to that criteria due to its size.</li>
<li>Health concerns. May it be acrylic or lacquer, inhaling atomized paint is not good for anyone. My booth, as I mentioned, is set on a well ventilated place. But what if I need to move indoors? Not good. My booth lacked that ability to vent out fumes. I always wear a respirator (mouth/face mask with a filter cartridge), but it will only protect me and not the people around me. You will also have to deal with the built up fumes and gases indoors.</li>
<li>Area. Having your airbrush setup on an open-air area can be double-edged. I already said the benefits, now here are the disadvantages that really irked me to upgrade. First is the area itself: our receiving area is the side nearest to the street and this will mean that it will gather the worst amount of DUST in just a day. I always hated preparations before airbrushing in this setup as I need to dust and clean the booth itself to prevent dust from getting to my kit parts. In just after a day after the last time I painted, it's already filmed with dust and DIRT. Second, RAIN. The area is roofed but nowadays, sudden thunderstorms are harsh and windy. I already experienced windy thunderstorms and it made me lose my appetite to paint because of it. It also risks ruining the paintjob.</li>
</ol>
These factors made me decide to finally execute my original plan: to build a more decent airbrush booth. One which I can use inside my house to counter those 3 above.<br />
<h4>
A Better Box</h4>
Honestly speaking, I was at first actually too lazy to build one and almost decided to just get a pre-made one - a branded one.<br />
<br />
Here were my options:<br />
<br />
<b>Style X Spraybooth- </b>Style X is a brand I recently discovered. Style X is a S. Korean brand that manufactures all sorts of hobby tools and supplies. One of their products is this spraybooth.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BdcJj0Dp1Dw/VYFZs437g4I/AAAAAAAABGg/SpvzgHxtzmk/s1600/0180240000092.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BdcJj0Dp1Dw/VYFZs437g4I/AAAAAAAABGg/SpvzgHxtzmk/s1600/0180240000092.jpg" /></a></div>
The main spraybooth setup is a generic one. It is just a re-branded package (you will see a similar package with ones that are sold in <b>Global TPC</b>) but it has an included LED strip/bar lamp-unit as the picture shows. The LED unit can be mounted using its double-sided tape giving this setup its own lighting system. It also has its own directed exhaust system (with filters) which addresses the problem with the fumes. It can also be folded for added portability (it is not huge to begin with as I have seen in videos in youtube).<br />
<br />
Another option that I also seriously considered was this one from Tamiya:<br />
<b>Tamiya Airbrush System No.38 Spray-Work Painting Booth II (single fan)</b><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Cx1xCBaXj98/VYFgFfIdfdI/AAAAAAAABGw/AfYKx0pB9Bk/s1600/top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="313" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Cx1xCBaXj98/VYFgFfIdfdI/AAAAAAAABGw/AfYKx0pB9Bk/s400/top.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Yep, TAMIYA - no further introduction needed. Reviews are good for this one. It is also relatively portable and also has its own directed exhaust system.<br />
<br />
Despite good feedbacks and seemingly desirable qualities, here are what made me decide to just create my own:<br />
<br />
The first problem is the <b>price</b>. The <b>Style X</b> is only available (as of the time I inquired online) and in stock in <b>Special Toys Center</b> (Philippine Hobby Store) and it costs <b>Php 11500</b> (shipping not included) as of May 2015. Too pricey for my taste. Now, the <b>Tamiya Spraybooth</b> can be pre-ordered from <b>Genki Panda </b>(a shop in the Philippines as well) for only <b>Php</b> <b>5320</b>. Not bad at all and I almost went to order it but that brings me to the next reason.<br />
<br />
<b>Sustainability</b>, sustainability in terms of parts and repairs. Being branded, these will come pre-made and ready to use. But in the long run, you will need to replace parts such as the filter or even the fan itself. Yes, you can buy these parts but that will depend on its availability and time to procure one (e.g. parts for the Tamiya Spraybooth can bought from Lil's Hobby Shop but it is not always available and knowing Lil's, they usually take a long time to replenish their stocks). Worth noting is the fact that the parts will also still be branded, therefore will cost more than it should be.<br />
<br />
Working with these factors and limitations all listed above, I designed my booth using these criteria:<br />
<ul>
<li><i>Portability</i> - something easy to move from one place to another</li>
<li><i>Health and safety</i> - indoors or outdoors, the booth should be able to get fumes away. If this can be done, the problem regarding the area will no longer be and issue</li>
<li><i>Price</i> - it should be as cheap as possible </li>
<li><i>Sustainability</i> - the parts should be easily available. I need to make sure that you can buy all materials from a single store/source but at the same time making sure that each material is common enough to be bought from any other hardware store if ever a single source will run out of stock. This will also reduce the total cost of each material (and the whole unit itself) as the supply is high and commonly available.</li>
</ul>
Given these and after watching sevaral youtube examples of DIY booths, it's time I made one myself.<br />
<h4>
My Box</h4>
The base of my new booth is still a plastic tub/container as it is cheap, readily available and easy to manipulate for the few modifications I will need to do. This is the one I bought:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6UUYuvhPQCk/VYFqrrUlJvI/AAAAAAAABHA/7LdnZg-urZM/s1600/mega-box-mg500-30L-500x500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6UUYuvhPQCk/VYFqrrUlJvI/AAAAAAAABHA/7LdnZg-urZM/s320/mega-box-mg500-30L-500x500.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The picture shows the 30L version but the one I got is the smaller <b>18L</b> version. I chose this box because of its predominantly <b>straight/flat</b> sides and also its clear/transparent finish. You need the sides, especially the bottom panel to be as flat/straight as possible. Avoid ones with thick bottoms and ones with wheels as you will obviously need to cut a whole for the exhaust fan to fit into. Having flat sides will also help you mount other optional accessories later on. The transparency of the box also will let you make use of ambient lighting in your area that will help in illuminating the parts you are painting. Overall the box itself addresses portability.<br />
<br />
Next you will need the exhaust system, the one that will take out fumes from your immediate area. I got one that is intended to be a <b>ceiling ventilation</b> <b>fan</b> which you can fit with a duct hose. Actually, I would suggest <i>looking for the right type of exhaust fan first</i> before looking for a box because the size of the box will be depending on the fan you will use. For my case, I got this 4" ceiling exhaust fan:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OdK1rlePcME/VYFvNmU1yWI/AAAAAAAABHM/vxhywPlfp9I/s1600/20150612_181627.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OdK1rlePcME/VYFvNmU1yWI/AAAAAAAABHM/vxhywPlfp9I/s400/20150612_181627.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I can't remember the exact price, I think it was at least Php599</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It is the right size for the 18L box. To mount it, I used a <b>knife and heated it over a running stove</b> so that it will cut through the plastic by melting it. Try not to cut through using an ordinary knife or cutter as it might shatter your plastic box in may places. The size of this fan and the 18L box will work together in keeping the
fumes within the box cavity, long enough for it to be vented out by the fan.<br />
Speaking of venting out, I also got a flexible/collapsible duct that fits the fan like a glove.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8vLWker-vfQ/VYFwTk9oBfI/AAAAAAAABHY/jUxEUdJcPL4/s1600/20150612_181542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8vLWker-vfQ/VYFwTk9oBfI/AAAAAAAABHY/jUxEUdJcPL4/s400/20150612_181542.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The duct is 4" in diameter and has a total length of 10 feet, which can be collapsed for easy storage. <br />
Now the good thing about the fan I bought is that it has a coupling where you can attach (or tape) any duct/hose you would like to use. The coupling then slides to the main cylinder where the fan is, making sure that air will only exit through the duct. I used duct tape to attach the duct to the coupling:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eleJ5Lt8o6c/VYFxiQRo8tI/AAAAAAAABHk/oo0oMdDUmfM/s1600/20150613_013327.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eleJ5Lt8o6c/VYFxiQRo8tI/AAAAAAAABHk/oo0oMdDUmfM/s400/20150613_013327.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
With this, you can easily remove and re-attach the duct to the <b>mounted fan</b> for easy storage.<br />
<br />
Next thing, I wanted to make my spraybooth have its own <b>lighting</b>. Given so, I got myself an <b>LED</b> <b>Light Fixture</b> - one that will be small enough to fit on the upper side of the box:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-96Vn0AcTjNM/VYFy7PKEd3I/AAAAAAAABHw/majwwJ0_mbo/s1600/20150612_181505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-96Vn0AcTjNM/VYFy7PKEd3I/AAAAAAAABHw/majwwJ0_mbo/s400/20150612_181505.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
This product comes ready to be mounted and so it comes with mounting brackets which I bolted to 'roof' of the booth. A good thing about this fixture is you no longer need to get other components as you would with a normal fluorescent fixture. It comes with a detachable power outlet but you will have to wire that detachable outlet to a male plug - it's not difficult anyhow and you'll be able to figure it out yourself. Once you finish the simple wiring, it can be plugged directly to your house's power outlet (AC220~240V for my case) and it should light beautifully. The mounting brackets included are designed so you could detach the LED fixture if needed.<br />
<br />
Once everything was mounted and holes were cut for the wires, this is how it looks like - technically ready to use:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K76qnUHJrxA/VYF18xoidJI/AAAAAAAABH8/2vowq5r29vI/s1600/20150612_181202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K76qnUHJrxA/VYF18xoidJI/AAAAAAAABH8/2vowq5r29vI/s400/20150612_181202.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's alive!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If you noticed, I mounted the fan to the left instead of the usual center mounting. I did this because I am right-handed and with the way I airbrush, I tend to spray pointing to the left. I noticed this on my earlier spraybooth where most of the paint is collecting on the left side more instead of the center, and so I took that in to consideration and mounted it like so.<br />
<br />
Like I said a while ago, this is already ready to use but like the usual suggestion, we must find a way to still <b>protect the fan</b>. It has always been discussed in forums and in youtube about the fan getting funked with paint particles and paint fluids that might cause it break down earlier than expected. For this, you should get a <b>filter</b>. I think the best option is to use <b>air conditioner filters</b> as they are thinner and easier to work with (they might even be washable - but not so sure of that). The problem is that they can be relatively expensive (Php 300+ a sheet, but you can cut them to fit smaller boxes like mine). The next best option is this one I have used before in my earlier booth:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GMThi7cowok/VYF47fktCjI/AAAAAAAABII/vVDharuZ7ck/s1600/20150613_012610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GMThi7cowok/VYF47fktCjI/AAAAAAAABII/vVDharuZ7ck/s400/20150613_012610.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
It's technically a kitchen duct filter which is made to catch grease and solid particles but lets air and fumes pass through very well. It only costs roughly Php120 and I only have to use half of it for my booth and the other half as a spare for future replacements.<br />
I also added a secondary layer of filtering. I borrowed the concept from the <b>Mr. Hobby Spraybooth</b> used by a number of modeller's I've seen in youtube:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--cgUltUJpkY/VYGAiPUXRbI/AAAAAAAABIY/Gdj910etcB8/s1600/mrsuperbooth1-700x700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--cgUltUJpkY/VYGAiPUXRbI/AAAAAAAABIY/Gdj910etcB8/s400/mrsuperbooth1-700x700.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
In a nutshell, the first layer consists of stacked strips of <b>corrugated cardboard</b>. The idea is to catch as much dust and/or particles with the cardboard enough for the air to be as clean as possible before reaching the 2nd filter. The good thing is that the corrugated cardboard is porous enough to not obstruct airflow (i.e. the suction power of the fan). Using this concept, I found a corrugated cardboard box (my parents just bought a new stand fan back then), cut it into 1" x 7" strips, then glued and stacked them together. Afterwards, I just put a sheet of paper (or newspaper) on the 'floor' of the booth and here it is in its final form:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2QMQKSPuIOc/VYGCKzoWxXI/AAAAAAAABIg/2N1qbjnfpoo/s1600/20150617_145909.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2QMQKSPuIOc/VYGCKzoWxXI/AAAAAAAABIg/2N1qbjnfpoo/s400/20150617_145909.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
I flinged a piece table napkin to it to test the suction power and I am satisfied enough to know that the napkin is staying there not due to friction but rather because the exhaust is working well enough.<br />
<br />
For some people, the fan I got might be too weak and too quiet to convince them that it is working. But I believe it works well given that I only use low air pressures and that will be enough the ensure the fumes will get vented out properly. I don't smell any fumes anyway.<br />
<br />
Another plus of this design is that I can pack the components neatly if ever I need to move locations. A detachable duct, a detachable outlet - I can store them all in the box itself, place the lid back on, lock it into place and viola! Ready for relocation :D<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LqtBO49EFTI/VYGEYqyIqZI/AAAAAAAABIo/1mLs24usGJE/s1600/20150612_182238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LqtBO49EFTI/VYGEYqyIqZI/AAAAAAAABIo/1mLs24usGJE/s400/20150612_182238.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
It will be kind of skewed because of the fans output on the left side but it is now very handy and easily re-deployable on its destination.<br />
<br />
A big plus is its total cost, the total cost should not be more than <b>Php1900</b> for the box, kitchen filter, duct, exhaust fan and LED lighting (this is the most expensive). Also, compared to the Tamiya and Style X ones, (aside from the cost alone) the parts are easily replaceable and the parts easy to find. <br />
<br />
Portability, Health & Safety, Price and Sustainability - I think I pretty much covered them efficiently. Can't wait to do long painting sessions on this baby in the near future :D<br />
<br />
Hope you learned a thing or two from this DIY build. Until next time!<br />
<br />
<b>PS</b><br />
If you can find a <b>spark-proof</b> exhaust fan, get it. It adds an extra layer of safety which avoids the risk of fumes igniting accidentally due to the electrical properties of the fan. This is a very rare chance to happen but if you can find one, get it instead.<b> </b><br />
<br />
<b>PPS</b>.<br />
A couple of random pics from my airbrush painting setup:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pn-4BSXSyF4/VYGJufn5FrI/AAAAAAAABI4/a5ZearX-c1Y/s1600/20150617_145937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pn-4BSXSyF4/VYGJufn5FrI/AAAAAAAABI4/a5ZearX-c1Y/s320/20150617_145937.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My 20T Air Compressor (TC-20T)<br />Set includes a hose, air filter-regulator and 1L tank<br />Try to get this model. Having a storage tanks means it will keep your compressor from always running unnecessarily.<br />The compressor auto-stops when the tank is filled up. This will help give more years to your compressor's life.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XGTNnWEg2Zo/VYGJyJ97x6I/AAAAAAAABJA/PqfjdcN5CIw/s1600/20150617_150122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XGTNnWEg2Zo/VYGJyJ97x6I/AAAAAAAABJA/PqfjdcN5CIw/s320/20150617_150122.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Used my old computer table as my new work table.<br />Lots of space to work on and put tools on.<br />Mounted my AB holder on the mouse panel so I could mix paint near the ABs.<br />I have a 0.3 AB for general painting and a 0.2 AB for painting small details and pre-shading.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-66409295699120553472015-06-05T06:50:00.001-07:002015-07-24T03:59:13.728-07:00[Project][WIP] Penelope Ep2: Simple Experiment for the Model Comprehend 1/144 RX-104 Penelope Gundoom build<h2>
Penelope Gundoom WIP#2: Paint Trial</h2>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RyuVmkN8kYI/VVrvdCKFPdI/AAAAAAAAArU/gUm2OR6Gx3A/s1600/20150519_143225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RyuVmkN8kYI/VVrvdCKFPdI/AAAAAAAAArU/gUm2OR6Gx3A/s320/20150519_143225.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
どうも!<br />
Last time, I finished painting the inner frame of this kit. Next is kind of a side-track for this build and required me to do a simple experiment for my planned paint scheme - candy-toning.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
Check out the first WIP log of this build <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/projectwip-model-comprehend-1144-rx-104.html" target="_blank"><b>here</b></a>!<br />
<h4>
The Plan</h4>
My main plan in terms of the color-scheme for this build is basically an almost copy-from-the-box color scheme for the Penelope. I will not be changing the colors but I will add more gray here and there. That is simple enough. but to add in contrast of textures, I am going to be candy-toning the yellow parts of this kit.<br />
<br />
If you've seen my build log for the <b>HG GP02</b> <b>MLRS</b>, I turned the blue shoulder panels into candy blue which basically made a quite appealing contrast in textures. Those were for only 2 blue small parts and I technically just used the basic procedure for this:<br />
<ol>
<li>A smooth black base coat</li>
<li>A bright and smooth silver/aluminum coat</li>
<li>Pre-shaded the edges with a black tint (smoke) paint (optional)</li>
<li>A clear/transparent blue layer with a lacquer retardant mixed in</li>
</ol>
Following steps 1-4, the below are generally the result:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2wQLjAeN0To/VXGTBW2uPdI/AAAAAAAABEI/1JP4xVDu8hw/s1600/20150314_143138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2wQLjAeN0To/VXGTBW2uPdI/AAAAAAAABEI/1JP4xVDu8hw/s320/20150314_143138.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was actually an experiment for the HG GP02 build<br />
I tested both the transparent blue and red paints I had</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6GvKkNkMMXc/VXGTDnpuw-I/AAAAAAAABEQ/9CvpKeOFHGI/s1600/20150315_184120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6GvKkNkMMXc/VXGTDnpuw-I/AAAAAAAABEQ/9CvpKeOFHGI/s320/20150315_184120.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pre-shaded with black tint paint over the silver before painting over the blue</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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This time, the yellow parts will be showcased. But before doing so, I needed to check how the yellow paint will react or what result it will have.<br />
<br />
I actually already have 'pre-made' parts which I already have chromed and they have been curing for months now - they were supposed to be just test parts to test chrome paints I got months before. Now they will be subjected to this candy-experiment.<br />
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<b>Subject 1:</b> The spoon<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zDaDOmN8epY/VXGWfmJY74I/AAAAAAAABEc/VZ_u4AuEIjU/s1600/20150605_151026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zDaDOmN8epY/VXGWfmJY74I/AAAAAAAABEc/VZ_u4AuEIjU/s320/20150605_151026.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
This is a simple one: gloss black, <b>Alclad II Polished Aluminum</b>, and black tint for pre-shading. I didn't achieve a good glossy base for this since the black paint resulted to an orange peel texture (probably due to some external factors), but it is the least of my concerns because my objective at that time was just to test my new Alclad paint and for this time, it will just work well enough.<br />
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<b>Subject 2:</b> The spear<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hbyR7FZHxv4/VXGWlvd5TFI/AAAAAAAABEo/W0YuZnXc734/s1600/20150605_142815.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hbyR7FZHxv4/VXGWlvd5TFI/AAAAAAAABEo/W0YuZnXc734/s320/20150605_142815.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
This actually came with the Dragon Momoko Tallgeese II kit. My younger brother built it but never truly finished so I just scrapped it. I used it to test a new primer I came across and also to test the <b>Bosny Chrome</b> I got. Note that Bosny Chrome is <b>enamel-based</b>, given so I have the least expectation of the result of the candy-toning on it as I am pretty sure the chrome paint will be eaten by the lacquer I will putting on (lessening the shine to begin with) but still worth to try it on.<br />
<br />
For the spoon, the pre-shading used was just the ordinary black tint. Since it is a yellow tint that I will be using, I wanted to check if a red tint can be used used as a pre-shade and so I did two preshading patterns for this one:<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Le5HZ-VRPYA/VXGdL3H5hdI/AAAAAAAABE0/lF4mGxP-UsI/s1600/20150605_144625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Le5HZ-VRPYA/VXGdL3H5hdI/AAAAAAAABE0/lF4mGxP-UsI/s320/20150605_144625.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
This one above was pre-shaded with <b>Bosny Honda Red</b>, tinting the edges and recesses with red. I think I might've gone too much as there was less chrome left and more of the red covering the surfaces, not to mention that the read was no longer a 'tint' coat as it already became a top coat. Nonetheless, it still is a good scenario for this experiment<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1lLXTE0bJA/VXGdQZMUT5I/AAAAAAAABE8/x3LYdtBD6nY/s1600/20150605_150724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1lLXTE0bJA/VXGdQZMUT5I/AAAAAAAABE8/x3LYdtBD6nY/s320/20150605_150724.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
For the other side of the spear, I only tinted one half of the edge with red and the other with black. The black tint is actually more transparent than the red and I already see that the paint started dissolving the enamel beneath it. Anyway, it still is workable.<br />
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<h4>
The Results</h4>
Now it's time to lay that transparent yellow on the subjects. For this experiment, I used <b>Bosny Yellow</b>. Here are the results:<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZlJieC0Hxb4/VXGfpEuy2oI/AAAAAAAABFI/_8AJWkM5-rI/s1600/20150605_160017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZlJieC0Hxb4/VXGfpEuy2oI/AAAAAAAABFI/_8AJWkM5-rI/s320/20150605_160017.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xEQd1Q8YE6o/VXGfp9sWIlI/AAAAAAAABFQ/ZlWb9fN1HDU/s1600/20150605_155938.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
The spear looks good enough but due to overdone red pre-shading, it's more red than the yellow I aimed for - it's actually more Iron Man-esque. The other side, having more chrome left, showed the same effect actually but with the yellow more dominant. But for this, you will notice that the chrome's metallic shine degraded. The shine is basically no longer a metallic one but rather just the shine that comes from the paint's glossiness. This is to be expected since the chrome used was enamel-based. Also, I guess the red pre-shading will still also work if I don't overdo it the next time. Lesson learned!<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xEQd1Q8YE6o/VXGfp9sWIlI/AAAAAAAABFU/KIpHbxMO5a0/s1600/20150605_155938.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xEQd1Q8YE6o/VXGfp9sWIlI/AAAAAAAABFU/KIpHbxMO5a0/s320/20150605_155938.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I think the spoon got the better results for this experiment. The metallic shine from the Alclad coat did not degrade at significantly, allowing it to contribute better to the mirror-finish of the paint job. The black tint also was able to create a shadowing/shading illusion. One thing I have to note about the Alclad Polished Aluminum is that it innately has a darker chrome tint. I noticed that it has a darker finish than the other 'Aluminum' metallic paints I used before, let alone the Bosny Chrome I used for the spear. Still it has that nice dark gold finish which is worth trying out in the future.<br />
<h4>
The Verdict</h4>
I think for the Penelope, I will be going for the<b> Spoon</b>'s results. I think the black pre-shading is still appealing and more good-looking than the red pre-shading (but I would say the red pre-shading can be applied in my future projects). Also for the silver/chrome layer, I will also try other paints for it. I think I can produce a brighter/more vibrant result if used <b>DS Paints' High-Shine Aluminum</b> or <b>Bosny Aluminum Silver</b> as I found both of them to be the brightest so far. Another great extra step (which I skipped in this experiment) that I will surely do in my build is to apply a clear gloss coat after the silver/chrome layer. I will use an acrylic coating, the trusty <b>Pledge Wipe & Shine</b> (after the silver/chrome has fully cured) or the <b>Vallejo Polyurethane-Acrylic</b> <b>Gloss Varnish</b> I have for a long time now. I am using non-lacquers as acrylic coats will not degrade the metallic shine too significantly and also adds an extra dash of glossiness for your candy paint to adhere to.<br />
<br />
Now that the experiment is done, I'd like to list the paints used in this experiment.<br />
<h4>
Credits Rolling</h4>
Like I said before, I predominantly use non-hobby brand paints. Most of these are decanted spraypaints which are, for me, easy to use and easier to acquire (and cheaper too) - of course minus the process you have to do for the decanting itself. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E1xADsWCbtU/VXGnNQtSPwI/AAAAAAAABFg/voqAZsSavT4/s1600/20150605_160119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E1xADsWCbtU/VXGnNQtSPwI/AAAAAAAABFg/voqAZsSavT4/s400/20150605_160119.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bosny Black Tint for the black/smoke pre-shading</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bosny Honda Red for the red pre-shading</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CXknKdPuMGg/VXGnVYT29KI/AAAAAAAABFw/T3Pkjp6hqSs/s1600/20150605_160246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CXknKdPuMGg/VXGnVYT29KI/AAAAAAAABFw/T3Pkjp6hqSs/s400/20150605_160246.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bosny Honda Yellow for the Yellow Candy Coat</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2US-X2NTeNA/VXGnX6exj1I/AAAAAAAABF4/-AXO3njFPOw/s1600/20150605_160353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2US-X2NTeNA/VXGnX6exj1I/AAAAAAAABF4/-AXO3njFPOw/s400/20150605_160353.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alclad II Lacquer Polished Aluminum for the silver/chrome layer</td></tr>
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With this I end this WIP log, hope you enjoyed and learned something from this. More WIP logs to come :DAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-74129258343313018992015-05-31T08:24:00.001-07:002015-07-24T03:58:55.618-07:00[Project][WIP] Penelope Ep1: Model Comprehend 1/144 RX-104 Penelope Gundoom Inner Frame<h2>
Penelope Gundoom WIP#1: Inner Frame</h2>
<h4>
</h4>
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どうも! <br />
Now that the runners are washed clean, it's time for my 1st step in to this project - the inner frame!<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
<h4>
Naked Truth </h4>
A lot of you already know that Model Comprehend design their kits to be a tad different. They don't just re-cast Bandai kits right off the bat but also adds extra details; adding a little of their spice in to the mix. Well, given that the main mobile suits from the Hathaway's Flash story never got a Gunpla Kit treatment, they basically had all the artistic license to fully make the kits into plastic reality (but of course they basically are still unlicensed by Sunrise, etc). On the RX-105 Xi, they outed the first HG with a significant inner frame. Given that the Xi is just an improved version of the Penelope, it would not come as a surprise for them to get this one out as well. And so to keep everything short, here we are, my first step in building this kit.<br />
<br />
Knowing that it has an inner frame, I treated it like an MG and so I went ahead and build the inner frame first. The good thing is that MC thought ahead and planned this kit pretty well. Armor parts are intended to be snapped over the inner frame which means you can build the inner frame first and work on the armor parts later which I have done here.<br />
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Reading the runner labels, the runners that carry the inner frame parts are marked with the RX-105 Xi name-label. So this means that Penelope's inner frame still uses the Xi's parts - this move is actually wise because this means they never had to come up with a new frame design and make new casting molds when technically the Xi and the Penelope are the same on the frame level (though the Xi has the Minovsky Craft Flight system embedded on its inner frame). I haven't gotten the Xi yet, but it should be the same one.<br />
Though it is not evident on the pictures, I already airbrushed this with a <b>Gunmetal</b> color (<b>Daryl's Spray (DS)</b> - a very good hobby paint sold locally here in the Philippines). It doesn't really depart much from the default grey color of the plastic, but it adds a metallic highlight that I want for an inner frame.<br />
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Unpainted, the frame is stable as it is but painting makes the joints tighter, ergo making it more stable without creating stress marks.<br />
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I haven't put the manipulators on yet, but the kit has 2 options for it:<br />
<ol>
<li>You can put the 1-1-3 setup (thumb, trigger finger, middle-ring-pinky in one piece)</li>
<li>or you can use the swappable finger mount for a fixed open-palm or closed-fist </li>
</ol>
I will show these manipulator options on future WIP logs <br />
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One thing I am not quite sure of about this kit is the ball-joint that connects the head to the main torso. I tried test-fitting it to the head itself and found that while it fits securely, it doesn't have a stopper that will prevent the ball-joint from going all the way through into the head cavity. You have to make sure not to push the ball-joint too much or you will have a head that looks like that of Meryl Streep in the movie, <b>Death Becomes Her</b>. But I think I can still do something about it, I'll just see if it will still be a problem once the head itself is fully built.<br />
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The abdomen is also a separate part (well two parts joined together) with two ball-joints on top and bottom to connect the main torso to the hips of the inner frame.<br />
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The top ball-joint is longer compared to the bottom one and this is something to take care of. Even when unpainted, it is already tight and does not connect properly if not forced in properly. This causes stress to the ball-joint neck and may potentially break. Given so, I will sand/file the ball-joint to make it fit easier and also I will put a small amount of <b>epoxy putty</b> to reinforce the ball-joint neck. I should've done it before painting but any alterations to this part will be covered by armor parts so it shouldn't matter.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HLXNxZtUIB0/VWsbU8qirqI/AAAAAAAABDU/wYP1otBBnjo/s1600/20150531_213904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HLXNxZtUIB0/VWsbU8qirqI/AAAAAAAABDU/wYP1otBBnjo/s320/20150531_213904.jpg" width="180" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--8jgug0kB-M/VWsbiCajEiI/AAAAAAAABDk/SCbAJK4Cp0Q/s1600/20150531_214908.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--8jgug0kB-M/VWsbiCajEiI/AAAAAAAABDk/SCbAJK4Cp0Q/s320/20150531_214908.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
The inner frame also has some pseudo-MG details like piston and hydraulic pipe details. But they are all just static plastic pieces and their main purpose is just to restrict the knees from bending the wrong way.<br />
By the way, you get to choose what kind of shoulder joint you are going to use. The one I have put above is for accommodating the Minovsky Craft. This part is basically half a centimeter longer than the other one and has two pegs to connect the Minovsky Craft to. The other part is the shorter one (with no pegs for the Minovsky Craft). This is if you want to showcase the kit primarily just in its Odysseus form (which is basically the Penelope in its basic mobile suit form).<br />
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Also worth mentioning is that the inner frame alone is already taller than my HG GP02. Again this is no longer a surprise as in 1/144 scale, the frame is already around 18cm (though probably above 16cm to be more accurate) tall, so if only I have my RX-78-2 ver 3.0 built, I can do a quick height comparison.<br />
Beside from those mentioned above, I don't have anything significant to point out about the inner frame at all.<br />
<h4>
<br />Next Step</h4>
Now that the inner frame is technically done, I can now focus on the armor parts.<br />
In the next step, I will be focusing primarily on the yellow parts of this kit. I am planning to candy-tone them with a clear yellow automotive paint. The Penelope has a lot of yellow parts which will be prominent in when completely built and so the same concept of 'contrast of textures' that I used for the HG GP02 MLRS will be used here.<br />
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That's all from me for this post - see you again next time!<br />
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*<b>Next part of this build is <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/06/projectwip-simple-experiment-for-model.html" target="_blank">here</a></b> Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-67266838930200711452015-05-28T00:57:00.001-07:002015-08-05T04:44:03.799-07:00[Project] BANDAI MG 1/100 MSN-04 Sazabi Ver. Ka<h2>
Char's legacy</h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://vignette3.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/6/6d/Msn-04.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20120405201802" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://vignette3.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/6/6d/Msn-04.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20120405201802" height="320" width="231" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pic from Gundam Wikia</td></tr>
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どうも! <br />
Posting here my project from last year. Nothing special compared to my HG GP02 MLRS that I did earlier this 2015 but here're some pictures from the build.<br />
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<h4>
Little Info:</h4>
The Sazabi is considered to be Char Aznable's last mobile suit in terms of the anime series. This was showcased in the animated movie "MS Gundam: Gyakushuu no Char" or 'Char's Counterattack'. This went head-to-head with Amuro's last MS, the RX-93 Nu Gundam where they both disintegrated into Minovsky Particles when they, technically, stopped half of the Axis asteroid from plunging towards Earth. An alternate version of the mobile suits are featured in the novels (now being serialized in manga), 'Char's Counterattack: Beltorchika Children'. In those media, Char pilots the big-ass 'Nightingale', instead, to face Amuro's RX-93-v2 'Hi-Nu Gundam'.<br />
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This kit itself is actually a redesign from an existing MG kit by Bandai.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CvwXu946uhg/VWayY4JxXGI/AAAAAAAAA9Y/G-4UAz_eauw/s1600/mg29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CvwXu946uhg/VWayY4JxXGI/AAAAAAAAA9Y/G-4UAz_eauw/s1600/mg29.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pictures taken from Dalong.net</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uTDl10iGvq0/VWayY3Z0YqI/AAAAAAAAA9U/bC8HyCALPUM/s1600/m29_boxopen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="253" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uTDl10iGvq0/VWayY3Z0YqI/AAAAAAAAA9U/bC8HyCALPUM/s320/m29_boxopen.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture c/o Dalong.net</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The redesign was done by <b>Hajime Katoki</b>, one of the most popular mecha designers nowadays. He actually started designing Gundams in photo-novel media and his first works appeared in Gundam Sentinel, designing the Sentinel, EX-S and redesigning suits like the Zeta (Zeta Plus). He also did the designs for the 0083 Stardust Memory mini-series (GP01 up to GP03) and I believe he is also a designer of some Mobile Fighters in the G Gundam series, mainly the Devil Gundam. He also designed mobile suits for the Gundam Wing series and actually went back to redesign them for the Endless Waltz movies. It is worth mentioning, that his designs are technically realistic and features militaristic looks and designs. A lot of his designs were already put into kit from, specially in MG 1/100 form. Katoki-designed kits are usually marked with a <b>"Ver. Ka"</b> but please note, there are already a lot of gunpla kits based on Katoki's original designs that it doesn't have to be marked with the Ver. Ka anymore (like the MG EW kits). One characteristic of Ver. Ka kits is that they usually come with a lot of decals for warning signs and markings that provides even more details for the kit.<br />
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The MG Sazabi Ver. Ka kit added even more details into the earlier kit, adding more panel lines, color separation, better inner frame and a tranformation that exposes the Sazabi's Psychoframe like the Nu Gundam Ver. Ka that was released before it. I think he got this idea when he designed kits for the Unicorn series and also given that time that the Gundam UC was very popular. The Sazabi in 1/100 form is a large model or toy (if you'd like). Standing at 23m as designed, it is expected to be 23cm in 1/100; I measured it with a straight rule, but found it to be taller than that and one could say it can already be as tall as a 1/60 scale model of an ordinary mobile suit. The box itself is also as big as the Perfect Grade RX-78-2's box as I compared them, so that basically already says a few things about this kit's uniqueness. No wonder until now that it is still considered a must-have for serious collectors.<br />
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<h4>
The Kit</h4>
For me, this kit is a great addition for any builder's pipeline - probably a "holy grail" kit. This is so special in my opinion that I would hate to see this bootlegged; it is worth getting for its price in the market and I feel strongly that everyone should invest getting only the Bandai version (not like there are other non-Bandai copies of this one as of the time of this writing). I actually pledged to myself to never buy bootleg gunpla when I finished this kit due to its superbness, showing the hard work Bandai and Katoki poured into its engineering making me see why original Bandai prices are kinda steep. Anyway, I would not dive into the philosophy of that issue.<br />
<br />
During this build (late 2014), I didn't have an airbrushing system yet, so painting was done thru spraycans and handbrush. I used Aluminum Silver for the psychoframe parts and gold for the yellow parts. I also slightly changed some parts' colors so that there will be a better contrast of colors. Final coat was a flat coat as well.<br />
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Here are the pics of the build itself. Hope you enjoy!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This kit has support for the LED unit sold separately by Bandai</td></tr>
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<h4>
Photoshoot Results</h4>
This is actually the first kit I ever had a photo-ops done. Shots done by my younger brother like with the HG GP02. Here are the pics:<br />
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I hope you enjoyed this short post :DAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-62570867578376417202015-05-24T03:02:00.000-07:002015-05-31T07:03:14.529-07:00[Photoshoot][Project] HGUC 1/144 RX-78-GP02A 'Physallis' Type-MLRS Extra<h2>
1st finished project of 2015 - Photo-ops </h2>
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Just recently, I started to do proper photo-ops for my builds. Now that the build documentation is done, . Here are the pics for the finished HGUC GP02 MLRS! <br />
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<a name='more'></a><b>If you want to check how I built this, check the links below:</b> <br />
For part 1, <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/project-hguc-1144-rx-78-gp02a-physallis.html">CLICK HERE</a><br />
For part 2, <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/project-hguc-1144-rx-78-gp02a-physallis_20.html">CLICK HERE</a><br />
For part 3, <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/project-hguc-1144-rx-78-gp02a-physallis_51.html" target="">CLICK HERE</a><br />
For part 4 (final part) , <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/project-hguc-1144-rx-78-gp02a-physallis_22.html">CLICK HERE</a><br />
<h4>
Info about RX-78-GP02A MLRS</h4>
As far as I know, the GP02 first appeared in the OVA mini-series 0083 Stardust Memory. It was introduced along with the GP01 (Zephyranthes) and part of the Earth Federation's Gundam Project. Code named, <b>Physallis</b> (サイさリス or SAISARISU/<i>SAISALIS</i> as it is pronounced/written in Japanese media), it was supposed to be inserted into operations along with the GP01; with the GP01 providing primary combat and assault in close-quarters, the GP02's main role is to delivery a single yet deciding ordinance - its atomic ordinance delivered mid-range thru its Atomic Bazooka, and actually survive the blast to ensure that total annihilation is confirmed. Supposed to be sortied from the <b>Albion</b>, it was gundam-jacked by Anavel Gato (high-ranking officer of the Delaz fleet, Zeon Remnants) which set Kou Uraki's fate at least for the next months after. GP01 and GP02 were both designed under Anaheim Electronic's Nina Purpleton. The GP02 also technically was the first Gundam to have a green beam saber and considered to be one of those that have the strongest beam saber power output in Universal Century. The GP02 was destroyed along with the GP01/Fb, when Anavel and Kou dueled until they were both forced to jettison their mobile suits as both reached critical damages.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HG GP02 MLRS box art</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First HG GP02A kit (c/o Dalong.net)</td></tr>
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This specific kit, however, is basically not the same design as it was in the OVA. The first HG kit and MG version of the GP02 are the closest kit-forms of the OVA. This GP02A MLRS HG kit is based on a video game (not sure if it is a PSP or PS2/3 game).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture from Dalong.net<br />
Features the MG and first HG versions</td></tr>
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The kit still comes with an atomic bazooka but it is no longer the same design as with the first HG and MG. As the name suggests, this comes with an MLRS (goes something like Multiple Launch Rocket System), with 1 pair of MLRS binders mounted on the backpacks (3 on each side). The bare plastic of the kit also has a slightly different color compare to the older kits. Like other bulky mobile suits, this kit has less articulation due to the said bulkiness.<br />
<h4>
Short info</h4>
<b>Modeller: </b>Gimel M. Tomines<br />
<b>Total build time: </b>4 months<br />
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It was not I who snapped these photos. My younger brother who runs a freelance photography studio did the shots. If you're in the Philippines (Metro Manila) and interested in doing other types of photoshoots, you could check out his FB page <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pmtominesfreelancephotography?fref=ts" target="_blank">here</a> and contact him from there.<br />
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I just did the direction of the shots, and I apologize beforehand as the poses will be seemingly 'repetitive'. Nonetheless, here they are, I hope you enjoy and forgive the painting mistakes you will spot from the pictures :D これでも、よろしくお願いします!<br />
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Again, hope you enjoyed this whole series, until the next build! :DAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-28993810716681583912015-05-22T03:25:00.001-07:002015-05-31T07:03:29.212-07:00[Project] HGUC 1/144 RX-78-GP02A 'Physallis' Type-MLRS Part 4<h2>
1st finished project of 2015 PART4</h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/2/2d/Gato.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20110704014438" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/2/2d/Gato.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20110704014438" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anavel Gato - GP02 Pilot</td></tr>
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どうも!<br />
Hello once again to my project documentation. Now that the painting and pre-finishing is done. It's time for decals!<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
For part 1, <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/project-hguc-1144-rx-78-gp02a-physallis.html">CLICK HERE</a><br />
For part 2, <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/project-hguc-1144-rx-78-gp02a-physallis_20.html">CLICK HERE</a><br />
For part 3, <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/project-hguc-1144-rx-78-gp02a-physallis_51.html" target="">CLICK HERE</a><br />
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Part of every plamo kit, including Gunpla, are decals. The aim of decals is to add extra details to your plastic kit. It usually ranges from insignias, faction crests, symbols, numbers, warning markings up to color decals. I would say, in the case of Gunpla and specially in the HG line, the use of decals are somehow abused by Bandai. Bandai usually provides decals that you stick on to the parts of your kit to provide color separation. Bandai cuts costs by molding a part into just a single color of plastic when there should be 2-3 colors on that single piece of plastic. Some times Bandai gives you colored-decals to wrap around these parts to counter that lack of color and other times, you will have to paint it (old HG kits from the Wing Gundam series all have red feet casted into a single red piece of plastic - no white color at all). Other decals that Bandai provide are for added details (like markings and warning signs).<br />
Before we move forward, here are what's usually expected in Gunpla kits in terms of decals:<br />
<ol>
<li><b>Sticker decals</b> - these are as the name said, stickers. Some times they provide foil stickers (for a metallic look) and some times the provide clear stickers (they usually give these for markings like in the RG line). Sticker decals are simple to use but its durability and life on the model is very poor compare to the others</li>
<li><b>Dry-transfer decals</b> - these can be mistaken for clear stickers. The decal is actually beneath a film of plastic protected underneath by a piece of paper. To use these, you'll just have to etch or rub the decal onto the part you want. Some would say that dry-transfers can be the best in terms of final results. This is because after application of the decal, it doesn't leave 'borders' on the design of the decal and it sticks flat to the surface. Dry-transfers excel in giving the illusion that the decal was painted. The problem with dry-transfers is that it can be hard to apply specially on small recessed areas. You might find that sometimes the design did not transfer well as you may missed etching some areas of the decal on to the surface. Also, the decal's adhesive might dry out specially on old stocked kits and I don't know how to remedy that.</li>
<li><b>Water-slide decals</b> - this is what I used for this project. Here, the designs are printed on a decal sheet and covered by a decal film. The adhesive is usually water-based. You just have to cut your chosen design out from the decal sheet, immerse it in water for a few seconds and <i>slide</i> the design on to the surface. If you made a mistake in positioning the design, you can just wet the decal again with a small drop of water and slide it to the correct position. Water-slide decals are usually the preferred decal by a lot of modellers because you can apply decals with complex designs relatively easier on any type of surface. Water-slide decals also have a longer life even when stocked for a long time and you can rejuvenate the adhesive using some products which adds more life to an old sheet. A downside (if you want to consider it) for water-slide decals is that it leaves 'borders'. The decal film used does not go away as it is the medium that affixes your decal to the surface. There are <b>pre-cut</b> water-slides which basically are made with decal film minimized applied only to the design itself and leaves minimal or negligible borders. But sometimes even pre-cut ones need to be trimmed further if your that meticulous about that sort of issue.</li>
</ol>
Now what did this kit came with anyway? Being an HG, it came with this <b>sticker</b> sheet:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dNkQRd6TBMg/VV7zZJL79lI/AAAAAAAAA2o/zi0SX9AwxOM/s1600/h75_r_g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="260" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dNkQRd6TBMg/VV7zZJL79lI/AAAAAAAAA2o/zi0SX9AwxOM/s400/h75_r_g.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture from Dalong.net</td></tr>
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As expected, it comes with that foil sticker sheet. It should be applied to provide more colors to the kit like the yellow stripes, vents on the head and torso, cameras, eyes, etc. Of course, that would not look good at all. The only thing I used is that big red symbol for the shield because I know I will mess it up if I painted it myself LOL. I also liked its metallic finish and I just airbrushed Bosny Flat over it, making a matted metal look. Everything else, I set aside.<br />
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To give more detail and/or uniqueness to my GP02, I just ordered a sheet of water-slide decals from Samuel (<a href="https://www.facebook.com/Samueldecal?fref=ts&ref=br_tf" target="_blank">Samuel Decals</a>). This is what I ordered from him:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--J33W0NQzCY/VV71k-4NGQI/AAAAAAAAA20/O7N7WYWfqD8/s1600/484625_10151055574261897_260258484_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="242" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--J33W0NQzCY/VV71k-4NGQI/AAAAAAAAA20/O7N7WYWfqD8/s400/484625_10151055574261897_260258484_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture from SamuelDecal's Facebook page</td></tr>
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I believe this is a scaled down version only probably the original scale was for a resin kit or at least for the MG 1/100 version of the kit. Samuel's decals are designed to really add more details to your kit making it look like a Ver. Ka kit which I'd like to do. Samuel makes pre-cut water-slides as well but some older designs are left as non-pre-cut, including this one. Given that, I really had to trim the borders so that it won't be too prominent when it dries. Another thing about Samuel's decals is that you can go freestyle on where you want to put the markings. For a few decals, I followed this suggestion from his FB page:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FTWlbN42XHA/VV73D4gXD9I/AAAAAAAAA3A/3V5NyP26Tm0/s1600/546303_10151154064396897_880001624_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FTWlbN42XHA/VV73D4gXD9I/AAAAAAAAA3A/3V5NyP26Tm0/s320/546303_10151154064396897_880001624_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
For the rest, I just applied them where I think it is logical.<br />
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*By the way, Samuel can make custom decals from your own design or he can change colors, patterns of already existing ones. Just contact him thru mail or PM him in his FB page. I actually sent him a scanned picture of the clear sticker sheet that came with the Gundam the Origin Char's Zaku II kit so that he could make water-slide version/s.<br />
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I also used these two decal solutions to affix my decals:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--yyKV57U-VA/VV73xvgWxBI/AAAAAAAAA3I/AVwgz9a6AS8/s1600/Mr%2BMark%2Bsols.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--yyKV57U-VA/VV73xvgWxBI/AAAAAAAAA3I/AVwgz9a6AS8/s320/Mr%2BMark%2Bsols.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
These solutions are for ensuring that your decals will have the maximum grip on the surface. <b>Mark Setter</b> is applied as an adhesive agent for your decals and so it is applied on the surface of the plastic before the decal itself. <b>Mark Softer</b> is a decal softener. It basically melts your decal and its film helping it achieve the maximum flatness or flushness on the surface of the plastic which helps make your decal look like it was painted - just like dry-transfers. My experience on this is that Mark Setter is completely optional. I actually find it harder to move the decals around once it gets in contact with the Mark Setter. I suggest just getting the Mark Softer only. Mark setter is actually a newer product - Gunze-Sangyo only had Mark Softer as its decal solution before and just introduced Mark setter a while later. Anyway, the main purpose of using decal solutions is to make it stick to the surface as best as it can and eliminate/prevent trapped air between the decal and the surface. This is because if you leave even a small packet of air beneath the decal other materials might get to it. The worst thing that could happen is when you are spraying <b>Flat clear</b> coat to finish your kit. The matting agent of the coat might seep under the decal, and that once clear border will fog, destroying the look of the decal. I have seen other cases that the whole decal turned white. But that can still be fixed, you just need to apply <b>isopropyl alcohol</b> on it and it should return back to normal - afterwards, respray the flat coat to protect the decal finally.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2006/10/images/tech_silvering_011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2006/10/images/tech_silvering_011.jpg" height="320" width="196" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pic from http://www.ipmsstockholm.org</td></tr>
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There also other things you can use as a decal solutions like below:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EU6dnUSkoAs/VV7_FGtXWcI/AAAAAAAAA3k/WpFDuKgsy8U/s1600/top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EU6dnUSkoAs/VV7_FGtXWcI/AAAAAAAAA3k/WpFDuKgsy8U/s320/top.jpg" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tamiya Mark Fit</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DTmdVMtFjQg/VV7_zVAGJKI/AAAAAAAAA3s/C51r4_yIV9g/s1600/%2524T2eC16NHJHEE9ny2qT%252CpBRVRiqgepg%257E%257E60_35.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DTmdVMtFjQg/VV7_zVAGJKI/AAAAAAAAA3s/C51r4_yIV9g/s1600/%2524T2eC16NHJHEE9ny2qT%252CpBRVRiqgepg%257E%257E60_35.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Micro Sol and Micro Set</td></tr>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5dPQYAtawOs/VV8ALIbGZnI/AAAAAAAAA30/PEn5D_5YxJ4/s1600/fig17a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5dPQYAtawOs/VV8ALIbGZnI/AAAAAAAAA30/PEn5D_5YxJ4/s320/fig17a.jpg" width="190" /></a></div>
Microscales' Liquid Decal Film is also has a nice decal solution to have as it is used to make custom decals and as its labels say, it can rejuvenate old water-slide decals. It can also be used to protect even new decals before you even wet them.<br />
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After applying all decals I have, the next thing I did was to airbrush Bosny Clear (i.e gloss) over the decals after <b>12 hours or so</b>. This will help seal the decals even further and make it more flush to the surface. And that bring us to the last step in this build, <i>finishing</i>.<br />
<h4>
Finishing</h4>
This step couldn't be any simpler: Just spray it whatever clear coat you want and it's done!<br />
For my case, I used <b>Bosny Flat Clear</b> as the final coat on all armor parts but for those <b>blue shoulder panels,</b> I used a good coat of Bosny Clear (gloss) instead, again to provide a contrast in texture.<br />
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I first sprayed it direct from the can, but somehow its not becoming flat as I would like it to be. The first few coats are only producing a semi-flat and even after letting dry well, it never became flat. Given that, I decanted the damn thing and airbrushed it instead. Boom, mission accomplished. With that, I proceeded with the final assembly and put the GP02 together. Here are pictures of after decalling and after the final clear coats were applied.<br />
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Actually, I think this is the last part of this series. I didn't really expect I needed to cut it into parts but since it might become text heavy, I decided to just do small parts instead. Anyway, this concludes my documentation of my first build for 2015. I had a great time recollecting my thoughts about everything in this build and I hope I was able to share something even if the documentation itself is not a comprehensive one.<br />
I still plan to cover what paints I used but as far as the build process is concerned, it is now done!<br />
Thank you very much and again, I hope you enjoyed reading this log! If you have any question, don't hesitate to drop a comment below.<br />
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*I will post another one for the pictures of the final product once I get the time to take pictures with a real DSLR camera. <br />
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Until my next build project! お楽しみに!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-21936612966398567672015-05-21T05:10:00.000-07:002015-05-31T07:03:45.484-07:00[Unboxing] Bandai HG Gundam The Origin MS-06S Zaku II<h2>
3x The Normal Speed</h2>
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Time for another unboxing. This time, something familiar to everyone - <b>Char's Zaku II</b> from the <b>Gundam The Origin</b> storyline!<br />
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I was actually not originally planning to get this kit, but when I saw my supplier posted that they have on-hand stocks fresh from Japan, I was tempted. Then, I saw that they also got the <b>Zaku II</b> <b>Folder</b> included, I said to myself, <i>Let's go get it, もらわなくていけないぜ! </i>I contacted my supplier and got the kit delivered the next day.<br />
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By the way, my supplier is <a href="https://www.facebook.com/genkipandastore" target="_blank"><b>Genki Panda</b></a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Genki Panda Logo</td></tr>
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<b> </b>Click <a href="https://www.facebook.com/genkipandastore" target="_blank"><b>here</b></a> for their FB page and to contact them for your Gunpla and other Plamo needs. I already got a few kits and tools from them. They get their products directly from Japan and depending on their vendor in Japan, they will price the product as close to the real retail Yen price as best as they can (of course, they will put their own charges so they would profit but it's not that much). Their selections and customer service is so far the best if not one of the best. With new kits coming, I expect buying more from them (I actually have a backorder of Advanced Hazel, hopefully coming this July). Anyway, let's proceed to the kit itself.<br />
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<h4>
Info</h4>
We all know what the <b>Zaku II</b> is. It was the first Mobile Suit ever to appear in the Gundam Universe, at least in the TV shows. It is the basic grunt suit of the Principality of Zeon during U.C. 0079. It was also technically Char's first featured Mobile suit (in the TV series) and was customized so that Char's skills can be maximized. The Zaku II is available in HG, MG, PG and also it has variations like the Shin Matsunaga custom, Johnny Ridden, etc - all of which are customized according to their owner's skill or general use in the battlefield.<br />
This 2015, we got to see a new OVA movie based on the Universal Century series and it's supposed to be a series of OVA movies based on <b>Gundam The Origin</b>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/b/bf/Mobile_Suit_Gundam_The_Origin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/b/bf/Mobile_Suit_Gundam_The_Origin.jpg" height="320" width="233" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture from Wikipedia<br />
Frau Bow looks more voluptuous here and where's Amuro's other hand going to?</td></tr>
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As far as I understood it, <i>Gundam The Origin<b> </b></i>is the manga serialization of the original Gundam anime series. If I understood it correctly, Gundam The Origin actually started like it did in the anime; it started with Amuro's story arc and his misadventures in his hometown Side 7 colony, where he encountered and first piloted the RX-78. Gundam The Origin follows the 0079 story specially the chronicles of the One Year War. The movie that was released this year (2015) is basically following the story of a later arc in this series which tells Char's story. I am not quite sure if they will only make the movies within this story arc of if we will get to see Amuro in the big screen as well. My guess is just the former.<br />
Now in terms of mecha lineup, there are a few new stuff but the same usual things we already are familiar with should be expected (Zaku, Gouf, etc - just like in the anime). The only changes I know is that they tweaked the mecha design a bit. One example is this Zaku II, aside from new armaments, Zaku II's now have vulcan cannons equipped on their bodies. Also by default, they look like RG's now, with more panel lines and warning marks. Another thing I saw is the Gundam itself.<br />
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<a href="http://vignette3.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/3/3e/Rx-78-02-front.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20111014090811" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://vignette3.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/3/3e/Rx-78-02-front.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20111014090811" height="320" width="232" /></a><a href="http://vignette3.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/f/f2/Rx-78-02-rear.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20111014090847" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://vignette3.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/f/f2/Rx-78-02-rear.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20111014090847" height="320" width="206" /></a></div>
It is now named <b>RX-78-'02'</b>, take note of the 02, it is now double-digit. It descended from the RX-78-01 which looks like a yellow GM. I think it has a new extra vulcan cannon on its torso and also has a default grenade launcher at its back. The fix figuration version of this is actually appealing and not that expensive too. Now why am I telling you this info? This is because this is the reason why Bandai released a new HG line.<br />
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<a href="http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/5/5d/Zaku_II_Origin.png/revision/latest?cb=20150314041827" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/5/5d/Zaku_II_Origin.png/revision/latest?cb=20150314041827" height="320" width="195" /></a></div>
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This new Zaku II HG Kit (Char's Zaku II) is the kit form of the Zaku II's design in the Gundam The Origin storyline. It is no longer in the HGUC line and designated as HG Gundam The Origin line with this Zaku II numbered as <b>001</b>. 002 is also already out and it's the Guntank Early version which Casval Rem Deikun piloted (at least as a gunner) - Genki Panda also already had this in stock. I don't think I'll be getting that Guntank yet, as I don't feel like building model tanks yet xD. Anyway, 003, I believe is one of the Black Star Trio Zaku II High Mobility. Gouf and that Worker/Construction mobile suit is also in the pipeline. Now, I am not sure if they will be making HG kits for Gundam The Origin even after the movies are done (specially if they will only cover Casval's story arc). I hope they do, so we could get also get an RX-78-02. I haven't read the manga yet but I am sure there are a lot 'updated' mobile suits that they will release in this line.<br />
Let's not delay this further - let's proceed to the kit itself.<br />
<h4>
Box Art</h4>
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The top box art (or the front of the box, if you'd like). It features the Zaku II's as Char rapes Federation ships one after the other.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Box Top</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This side has the same art as with the opposite side</td></tr>
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*These two sides feature a puttied, finished and painted kit, so don't expect you'll end up with the same results unless you intend to paint it at least.<br />
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The box size is that of normal HG kits as you may be able to tell.<br />
<h4>
Contents</h4>
I actually found a lot a lot 'irregularly' shaped runners. Also, unless I missed on some details, I believe all runners are unique to this Zaku II The Origin and I didn't see any re-used runners from old kits telling us that this is Bandai's new casting technique. We'll most like see this in future kits even outside this series. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y9ZFeqtbQKo/VV3Hu6556RI/AAAAAAAAAz4/zKFT8s7tgoY/s1600/A1-Runner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y9ZFeqtbQKo/VV3Hu6556RI/AAAAAAAAAz4/zKFT8s7tgoY/s400/A1-Runner.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A1</td></tr>
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A1 runner is in that Dark Salmon Red color. You'll also see other runners for the armor pieces in this color as well.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aLYZW89DCN0/VV3JQRP6FnI/AAAAAAAAA0E/LRBjVSsesLA/s1600/A2-Runner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aLYZW89DCN0/VV3JQRP6FnI/AAAAAAAAA0E/LRBjVSsesLA/s400/A2-Runner.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A2</td></tr>
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A2 runner is the first Maroon or Mahogany colored runner. This color is used on other runners as well.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rXLfE88f8VE/VV3J4F9s7rI/AAAAAAAAA0M/fdXAHZurHu4/s1600/B1-Runner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rXLfE88f8VE/VV3J4F9s7rI/AAAAAAAAA0M/fdXAHZurHu4/s400/B1-Runner.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">B1</td></tr>
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B1 is in panzer/german gray colors for the feet and knee armor panels.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D8ZOsyltv6w/VV3LZ2OD73I/AAAAAAAAA0g/D6SCVcay2q8/s1600/B2-Runner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D8ZOsyltv6w/VV3LZ2OD73I/AAAAAAAAA0g/D6SCVcay2q8/s400/B2-Runner.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">B2</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dlGCqCOxay4/VV3LvVQi0MI/AAAAAAAAA0o/WgQpPsRQg6o/s1600/C-Runner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dlGCqCOxay4/VV3LvVQi0MI/AAAAAAAAA0o/WgQpPsRQg6o/s400/C-Runner.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">C</td></tr>
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I am actually intrigued with the C-runner, it feels like the normal PS plastic but you are supposed to manipulate those tubes to get them in to place in the final assembly.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tOakJtMnkRU/VV3MVV7Ul4I/AAAAAAAAA0w/prxvWJw6VEE/s1600/D1-Runner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tOakJtMnkRU/VV3MVV7Ul4I/AAAAAAAAA0w/prxvWJw6VEE/s400/D1-Runner.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">D1</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o1rhdnm22Mo/VV3Mpe2RYII/AAAAAAAAA04/jS4WowM3rPc/s1600/D2-Runner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o1rhdnm22Mo/VV3Mpe2RYII/AAAAAAAAA04/jS4WowM3rPc/s400/D2-Runner.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">D2</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jvkZ-EhzmSk/VV3M5Wd3aJI/AAAAAAAAA1A/OdDdfaBnVnA/s1600/E1-Runner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jvkZ-EhzmSk/VV3M5Wd3aJI/AAAAAAAAA1A/OdDdfaBnVnA/s400/E1-Runner.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">E1</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P9NiDKewMgs/VV3NOMnDS0I/AAAAAAAAA1I/wOaC9O6yRbw/s1600/F-Runner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P9NiDKewMgs/VV3NOMnDS0I/AAAAAAAAA1I/wOaC9O6yRbw/s400/F-Runner.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">F</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NWmLuGJ9qZA/VV3NkIrlW8I/AAAAAAAAA1Q/t1d-p1M-Jj8/s1600/Foil%2BSticker%2BSheet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NWmLuGJ9qZA/VV3NkIrlW8I/AAAAAAAAA1Q/t1d-p1M-Jj8/s400/Foil%2BSticker%2BSheet.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foil Stickers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Foil stickers for the mono-eye and one for the gun camera.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1RGn79AxXwo/VV3N8U7DZLI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/OqbcPlcGwJY/s1600/Clear%2BSticker%2BSeals.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1RGn79AxXwo/VV3N8U7DZLI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/OqbcPlcGwJY/s400/Clear%2BSticker%2BSeals.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clear sticker seals</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
They provided a clear sticker sheet for the markings. It actually looks like a trimmed-down version of the RG-version of the Zaku II. I asked Samuel of <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Samueldecal?fref=ts" target="_blank">Samuel Decals</a> if he already made water-slides for this kit but unfortunately, none as of yet. He asked me if I could scan this so he could make a water-slide version. I just sent him the scan two days ago and hopefully he'll be able to make one in a few days more.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ixqfgoJCbWQ/VV3Q3Mt3adI/AAAAAAAAA1k/Z1rwT8kJPNc/s1600/PC001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ixqfgoJCbWQ/VV3Q3Mt3adI/AAAAAAAAA1k/Z1rwT8kJPNc/s400/PC001.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PC001</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s8YLUYqUa2E/VV3RPyb5NZI/AAAAAAAAA1s/h3woPyUTE30/s1600/Manual.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s8YLUYqUa2E/VV3RPyb5NZI/AAAAAAAAA1s/h3woPyUTE30/s400/Manual.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Manual - nothing special, just your normal HG manual</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
Extras</h4>
Some trivial things that came with the box:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VHHc3iWTvW8/VV3STod8ADI/AAAAAAAAA2A/RyknU0MAJgU/s1600/Revive%2BPromo%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VHHc3iWTvW8/VV3STod8ADI/AAAAAAAAA2A/RyknU0MAJgU/s320/Revive%2BPromo%2B2.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VW3Y_Rp7RLI/VV3SLEetThI/AAAAAAAAA14/jNP60EG58uM/s1600/Revive%2BPromo%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VW3Y_Rp7RLI/VV3SLEetThI/AAAAAAAAA14/jNP60EG58uM/s320/Revive%2BPromo%2B1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9R925Ub6374/VV3SXtGdBsI/AAAAAAAAA2I/yQI4qFOfVl4/s1600/Survey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9R925Ub6374/VV3SXtGdBsI/AAAAAAAAA2I/yQI4qFOfVl4/s320/Survey.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
These are just leaflets that came with box. The 1st two pics are just promotional leaflets for the upcoming Revival series Bandai will be releasing. It also indicates information on the Gunpla Expo Tour going on this year. The 3rd is just a 2D-barcode if you want to answer surveys for Bandai. This is for Japan-use only.<br />
<br />
Now this one is I guess what made me get this kit early. This Zaku II Folder:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-srCOvxX10Cg/VV3U41zMYrI/AAAAAAAAA2U/PMMbRjj8Zng/s1600/Zaku%2BFolder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-srCOvxX10Cg/VV3U41zMYrI/AAAAAAAAA2U/PMMbRjj8Zng/s400/Zaku%2BFolder.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
If I read the Japanese promotional posters correctly, you get this folder along with the kit if you get it during its 1st run (or 1st batch of its print). I am not sure if this is a pre-order bonus because my supplier just got this as a normal supply from their vendor so I am guessing it's just a limited bonus for the 1st batch of this kit. This is actually just one part of a 2-part folder. The other part is if you get the bluray or DVD release of first OVA of this series. You're supposed to put that other folder over this one to complete the 'look'. Money-grabbing schemes by Bandai - exploiting the words 'exclusive', 'limited' and the likes.<br />
<br />
<h4>
My thoughts about this kit as it is right now</h4>
They've said that Bandai is using a new moulding technique or process for this one. I am not sure because this is my first HG Zaku II so I have no point of reference. In the end, this is just another variation of this iconic mobile suit. I have read the manual beforehand and I found that this is just a typical HG and I saw that I will still have some seamline removals in the horizon. Then again, if you don't have an HG Zaku II yet, get this. Otherwise, the only reason you'll even want to consider getting this is if you'll be able to get the folder from your supplier as well for collecting sake. I personally got it because of the folder and its sniper rifle, and also for the fact that I don't have an HG Zaku II yet. But still, this is a potentially great looking kit - I am looking forward to build and paint this!<br />
<br />
Well that concludes my unboxing of this kit.<br />
Hope you enjoyed and learned something new as well.<br />
Until next time!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-40939651536484624642015-05-20T23:42:00.001-07:002015-05-20T23:43:14.603-07:00[Anime] G-Gundam Cameos<h2>
When Sunrise gets bored</h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://vignette4.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/a/aa/G-gundam-dvd12.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20110713160543" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://vignette4.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/a/aa/G-gundam-dvd12.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20110713160543" height="400" width="291" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture from Gundam Wikia</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I decided to re-watch G-Gundam recently as my memory about the series has already gotten really blurry. And "LOL" and behold...<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a>I first got to watch the G-Gundam series during the late 90s thru local television (dubbed in Filipino) but I only got to watch the series on holidays (I was in High School) and so I was not able to connect the story in the right way. More than a decade later, I decided to watch it in its entirety thru online means. Cheesy as it is (it is like Street Fighter characters in Gundams) I still like the general concept compared to the Build Fighter series. The concept of nations battling every 4 years for absolute rule over space and Earth (instead of World Wars) by sending their very best martial artist - this is something that appeals more to me. Also, those fighters in the Gundams are linked directly to their Gundams (Mobile Fighters); the <b>trace link system</b> (or something like that) perfectly syncs whatever movement the fighter inside does into the Gundam's own action, which is also double-edged, since any damage the Mobile Fighter receives will have a corresponding feedback to the fighter pilot inside - which I believe gives even more motivation for the fighter pilot to perform better since he/she is directly at stake or is subjected to the greatest risk whether he/she loses or wins the fight. I preferred G-Gundam because of this concept because it is not technology that will win a fight, rather the fighter pilot's martial art and skill and is not one that only sits in a cockpit or chair that will not die upon losing. Also, the thought that your nation's future is also at stake adds to your own motivation to win the fights.<br />
<br />
Now you see, the concept of G-Gundam's story is not original at all. As far as I know, it already has been told in novels before, and in fact, the first movie I saw that has this same concept is the movie <b>Robot Jox </b>(1989)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://ia.media-imdb.com/images/M/MV5BNzE4NzkyOTc3N15BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwOTA1ODAzMQ@@._V1_SX640_SY720_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://ia.media-imdb.com/images/M/MV5BNzE4NzkyOTc3N15BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwOTA1ODAzMQ@@._V1_SX640_SY720_.jpg" height="400" width="277" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pic from IMDB</td></tr>
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The concept is almost the same: After WWIII, mankind is already sick of wars and so instead of sending out armies against each other, they just send their best martial artist riding these huge mechs controlling the mechs with their own movement (i.e. trace link system). This here movie, though, features the conflict of the Cold War during those times and as such, features the rivalry between U.S. and U.S.S.R. You might want to watch this movie just for the hell of it, it's not the best but I believe it is worth your free time.<br />
<br />
Anyway, going back to G-Gundam, on the last episodes of the series, Domon Kasshu (the main protagonist) wins the tournament, wins the title of 'Gundam of All Gundams', and wins Neo Japan the right to rule over all of space and Earth by the defeating the Devil Gundam and his own master. I don't consider this as spoiler because you should all know how animes like this flow. Just when all thought that normal life is about to continue on, the deranged Devil Gundam (the glitched version of the Ultimate Gundam) is revived by a deranged Major Ulube by offering Domon's love interest, Rain, to the Devil Gundam as its new and ultimate life unit (or battery as one would say). There probably were a lot of hentai moments involved given the tentacles, Rain becoming naked after the initial assimilation, Rain giving that 'moan' (yes, she did not scream) when the Devil Gundam fully resurrected and the fact that they said that the ultimate life source unit for the Devil Gundam is one that can 'give birth to new generations of life' which is basically a female human (Rain was fully naked with her lower-half body connected and inside a dock with lots of tentacles holding her in). After the Devil Gundam latched and assimilated the Neo Japan Colony, it proceeded on assimilating Earth itself next. Just when all hope is lost, all Gundams (literally all in production and prototypes) from all nations of the world formed a Gundam Federation to fend off the invasion this is where the funny things happened - cameos!<br />
<br />
During that part when all Gundams from all nation decided to join forces (Ep. 48), they managed to go into space with the help of Neo Sweden lending them the rocket boosters they need to escape the Earth's atmosphere. We see an unmistakable reference to the grandaddy of all Gundams, the RX-78-2 joining in the fun:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-adSNjyMV0rE/VV13u54etAI/AAAAAAAAAyA/634SG9WXVDI/s1600/G-Gundam%2BEpisode%2B48.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="283" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-adSNjyMV0rE/VV13u54etAI/AAAAAAAAAyA/634SG9WXVDI/s400/G-Gundam%2BEpisode%2B48.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So this is where Amuro disappeared to after Char's counterattack.<br />
Probably missed the fun of being a newtype.</td></tr>
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Out of frame, you should also be able to see probably a Crossbone Gundam also launching, and probably a Hyaku Shiki or something. <br />
<br />
On Episode 49, the Devil Gundam/Devil Colony seemed unstoppable. But the newly formed Gundam Federation is featured doing awesome stunts and seems to be doing a great job in defending Earth. Then we see, this below.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J-fDo5oVkMs/VV14zYl_QvI/AAAAAAAAAyM/CBRnxMocbRo/s1600/G-Gundam%2BEpisode%2B49.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="272" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J-fDo5oVkMs/VV14zYl_QvI/AAAAAAAAAyM/CBRnxMocbRo/s400/G-Gundam%2BEpisode%2B49.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Obviously the GP01/Fb</td></tr>
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That is surely a reference to the Gundam GP01/Fb Zephyranthes (0083 Stardust Memory), piloted by the most unfortunate Gundam pilot up to date. Seems that Kou Uraki want to try his luck again after that quick end to his Gundam career.<br />
<br />
Next is the part still in Ep. 49 when the Devil Gundam is making a huge push towards Earth, making the Gundam Federation up their game to hold the line. We get a taste of some Wild Beat Communication for a few seconds.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6-rsdakKZV8/VV16ZHQq76I/AAAAAAAAAyY/b1kwl38l6FY/s1600/G-Gundam%2BEpisode%2B49_2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="275" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6-rsdakKZV8/VV16ZHQq76I/AAAAAAAAAyY/b1kwl38l6FY/s400/G-Gundam%2BEpisode%2B49_2.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heero Yuy feeling his rhythm emotion</td></tr>
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The Wing came in but I was sad it didn't use its Buster Cannon. I think Heero pushed 'that button' he really likes to push instead of the trigger. This suit exploded 1 second after this shot is taken.<br />
<br />
And lastly, after Domon and Rain got reunited and using that Love-Love Tenkyouken on the Devil Gundam, the Gundam Federation line and celebrated. Different Gundam groups were framed in different scenes, but I found this one there:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Avk0C5JceL4/VV17mQ__JNI/AAAAAAAAAyk/DpFkVt-1cB4/s1600/G-Gundam%2BEpisode%2B49_3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Avk0C5JceL4/VV17mQ__JNI/AAAAAAAAAyk/DpFkVt-1cB4/s400/G-Gundam%2BEpisode%2B49_3.png" width="400" /></a></div>
Aside from the Gundam finalists, flying along with them are Gundam F91, Zeta Gundam, a resurrected Wing Gundam, a mecha from a Super Robot series I don' know, and others that I can't see due to the video resolution. Seabook probably wants to take the F91 for a spin before changing to the Crossbone. The other parts of Kamille's ego might have materialized in this universe after that bout with Paptimus.<br />
<br />
LOL, G-Gundam really is something worth re-watching.<br />
What Gundam series would you like to re-watch again and again?<br />
Comment down below because I also need ideas on watch and/or re-watch :D<br />
ヨロシク!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-7977664009178399452015-05-20T09:36:00.000-07:002015-07-13T06:25:14.547-07:00[Project] HGUC 1/144 RX-78-GP02A 'Physallis' Type-MLRS Part 3<h2>
1st finished project of 2015 PART 3</h2>
どうも!<br />
Welcome back and I am glad that I am not boring anyone.<br />
I never expected this will become a series of TL;DR logs but hope I can still give new info for builders to use in their projects. So here we go, HGUC 1/144 RX-78-GP02A MLRS, 出撃!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://vignette3.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/5/59/RX-78GP02A_Gundam_GP02A.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20120324071752" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://vignette3.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/5/59/RX-78GP02A_Gundam_GP02A.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20120324071752" height="320" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pic taken from Gundam Wikia</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a name='more'></a>For part 1, <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/project-hguc-1144-rx-78-gp02a-physallis.html">CLICK HERE</a><br />
For part 2, <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/project-hguc-1144-rx-78-gp02a-physallis_20.html">CLICK HERE</a><br />
<br />
For some strange reason in the Painting section of this project, I forgot to include how I painted those very prominent blue shoulder panels on those shoulder binders. So I guess let's start from there.<br />
<h4>
Them blue shoulder panels</h4>
For the GP02, anyone will, surely, first notice those large shoulder binders. Carrying three huge-ass thrusters (on each binder), the GP02 uses these binders to counter the damn recoil of the atomic bazooka and also the blast and shockwave that it will have to face once it delivers its payload. These are also what give the GP02 good maneuverability that makes this bulky mobile suit still a deadly weapon in CQB situations - coupled with Anavel's piloting skills and passion, the GP02 is truly a monster worth Gundam-jacking. Now, what makes the binders even more prominent, is the blue shoulder panel on each binder. It gives a builder a perfect opportunity to make the GP02 they are building truly unique, one that a builder can call his own. Given so, I decided to <b>candy</b> those babies up. I thought that a glossy, candy effect on those panels will have a nice contrast against the flat coated armor parts and I am glad it did not fail.<br />
<br />
The first step you must make is to spray/airbrush a gloss black paint over the piece. What I did is use the same <b>Bosny Black</b>, mix in a lacquer retardant and airbrush it at <b>very low</b> PSI (8PSI). Your aim is to provide a <b>VERY GLOSSY</b> base coat for the next paint you will be using. Using that method I mentioned, I was able to produce an almost mirror finish(it's only high-gloss, but I can already see a nice reflection) black base coat using just an ordinary paint.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hW5J8ScWrTA/VVyH7NWiOkI/AAAAAAAAAwE/mi-kstVORmI/s1600/20150419_183832.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hW5J8ScWrTA/VVyH7NWiOkI/AAAAAAAAAwE/mi-kstVORmI/s320/20150419_183832.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Another way is you can use <b>Alclad II Black Gloss Base </b>(named something like that) as your gloss base. Another popular method is to use an <b>Enamel Gloss Black</b> paint to make a glossy base as enamels have the best levelling property. Alclads and Enamels are best when airbrushed, by the way.<br />
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<a href="http://www.modelsforsale.com/listphotos/ALC305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.modelsforsale.com/listphotos/ALC305.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41QI2It-vpL._SY300_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41QI2It-vpL._SY300_.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Humbrol Enamel - Gloss Black</td></tr>
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Now that I have finished creating a glossy black base, It's time to metallize the part.<br />
Common choice for candy-effects is to use <b>silver</b> or <b>chrome</b>. Spraying silver over a glossy black surface will help your silver color achieve a mirror-like texture and surface. I also tried using a <b>decanted Bosny Aluminim Silver</b> for candy-effects. For me, Bosny's aluminum silver is the <b>best looking silver</b> by Bosny, so hope you take that into consideration. Despite that, I wanted to try a new paint I got from <a href="https://www.facebook.com/jmn.hobby?fref=ts">JMN Hobby</a>; they got a fresh shipment of Alclads and I wanted to try an Alclad for once and so I got this <b>Alclad II Polished Aluminum.</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U85kpoS7b8c/VVyHBrm7jVI/AAAAAAAAAv4/FWhWm5RW6-Y/s1600/11149279_1091270297554738_1892804885806489898_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U85kpoS7b8c/VVyHBrm7jVI/AAAAAAAAAv4/FWhWm5RW6-Y/s320/11149279_1091270297554738_1892804885806489898_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The small bottle on the left is the Polished Aluminum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b> </b>Again, Alclads are airbrush-ready. It's actually water thin and very easy to airbrush - thinning no longer needed. Here is the finished product of that metallization.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vAZoQQmXskM/VVyIKEohkyI/AAAAAAAAAwM/0QEwvHzKmeU/s1600/20150426_155525.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vAZoQQmXskM/VVyIKEohkyI/AAAAAAAAAwM/0QEwvHzKmeU/s320/20150426_155525.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Metallization done</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Now that the metallization is finished. I then <b>preshaded </b>this baby using a transparent/clear black paint. I <b>decanted</b> <b>Bosny Black Tint</b> paint and airbrushed the paint along the edges of the panels. This will create a darker shade of the next paint that I airbrushed next, creating the same effect as what we did on the normal parts of the kit. Mind you, this step about the black tint is purely <b>optional</b> and it's just my method of being consistent in preshading my kit and anyway, it created a very subtle but desirable result after.<br />
<br />
Moving forward, to finish the candy effect I again <b>decanted </b>paint. This time <b>Bosny Honda Blue</b>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.kyubicosplay.com/image/cache/data/products/Paints/IMG_0300-550x550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.kyubicosplay.com/image/cache/data/products/Paints/IMG_0300-550x550.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I forgot which Honda Blue number I used, but I guess any will work well</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Again, using a lacquer retardant, I airbrushed this paint evenly over the parts. Bosny's Honda Blue is my alternative to the likes of Tamiya's or Mr. Color Clear Blue. I also managed to maximize and maintain its glossiness by airbrushing it. Now, this same process can be used with other of Bosny's transparent paints like Yamaha Red, Honda Red, Yamaha Yellow, etc. You should be able to have a result like this (this is actually a test spray I did before doing it with the shoulder panels):<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HgC2JuaqePg/VVyRG8z0NzI/AAAAAAAAAwc/XmR4fjKKUJY/s1600/10155513_1070654399616328_2200720149129178196_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HgC2JuaqePg/VVyRG8z0NzI/AAAAAAAAAwc/XmR4fjKKUJY/s320/10155513_1070654399616328_2200720149129178196_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using Honda Blue and Red<br />
The Honda Blue here is not that glossy - I discovered an airbrushing technique that helped produce the maximum glossiness possible.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So why not just use a normal blue paint and make sure to gloss it up? Well, we really need that <b>silver</b> base. This will make the blue paint vibrant and make the finish more <b>metal-plated</b> looking. The paint is actually intended to be used on motorcycles, so I guess the same effect can be achieved in plamo.<br />
Here is the result for the shoulder panels:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w0x3XjWshlg/VVyVZ8ZBLKI/AAAAAAAAAwo/q1CWvgtR6Hw/s1600/20150516_215609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w0x3XjWshlg/VVyVZ8ZBLKI/AAAAAAAAAwo/q1CWvgtR6Hw/s320/20150516_215609.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RIh43ZM5LkY/VVyWOu1c-cI/AAAAAAAAAw0/Z77NZOXo328/s1600/20150516_215213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RIh43ZM5LkY/VVyWOu1c-cI/AAAAAAAAAw0/Z77NZOXo328/s320/20150516_215213.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
If you can see it, you'll notice that the edges of the shoulder panels are darker. That's basically what I aimed for and the main reason why preshaded them with Bosny Black Tint.<br />
<br />
Finally, I think from this, I think I basically covered my painting process already. The next step is what I call <b>pre-finishing.</b><br />
<h4>
Pre-Finishing </h4>
In this stage, my aim is to <b>seal </b>and <b>protect</b> the paint job I have worked hard for. This is to protect the paint job from scratches and damages that might result from handling it during decalling, panel lining and final assembly. For this stage, I always pre-finish using a <b>gloss clear coat</b>. Furthermore, I usually use a <b>weak</b> gloss coat, meaning I usually do not use a lacquer-based gloss coat as it might react with other layers of paint under it.<br />
So why do I use gloss coats for pre-finishing? Because gloss is perfect for panel lining (may it be enamel washing, using pigment ink markers or real touch markers), it also provides a great smooth surface for when you use water-slide decals (which I did use).<br />
<br />
Going back to the type of gloss coat, I decided to use an acrylic-based one. One brand you can use is Tamiya Clear (from the bottles, not the spraycan type). One candidate that I thought of using is <b>Vallejo Acrylic Clear Varnish:</b><br />
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<a href="http://www.touristinformationcentres.net/webshop/images/webshop/215/product/large/VALLEJO-ACRYLIC-GLOSS-VARNISH-500ml--28-51711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.touristinformationcentres.net/webshop/images/webshop/215/product/large/VALLEJO-ACRYLIC-GLOSS-VARNISH-500ml--28-51711.jpg" height="320" width="238" /></a></div>
<b> </b>But it was unavailable in <b>Deovir</b> when I inquired for one. So I settled for the next best thing - <b>PLEDGE WIPE & SHINE:</b><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LLkxf7g8pZY/VVyhA-gbYMI/AAAAAAAAAxE/KV2UO4fezv4/s1600/IMG_3596%2Bcopy-700x700_0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LLkxf7g8pZY/VVyhA-gbYMI/AAAAAAAAAxE/KV2UO4fezv4/s320/IMG_3596%2Bcopy-700x700_0.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<b> </b>Wipe & Shine is basically the Philippine-version of Pledge <b>Klear</b>. I learned of this product seeing it being used by some military modellers in pre-finishing their kits too. It is technically an acrylic-based floor wax, not to mention it is very very fluid as well - which is ideal for airbrushing. I dries relatively very quickly and it smells pleasant as it is meant for indoor use. I used Vallejo Model Air paints for my kit, and the paint dries flat or matted by default. After airbrushing this to the parts, here is the result:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-baSzyfdJ7fg/VVymI4-XZkI/AAAAAAAAAxU/5ZmaaT8yFng/s1600/20150419_183748.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-baSzyfdJ7fg/VVymI4-XZkI/AAAAAAAAAxU/5ZmaaT8yFng/s320/20150419_183748.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
This is just one coat. You can see that the glossiness is nothing special at all. But considering this was once flat/matte, you can already see a polished finish to it. It is also already smooth to the touch so I decided to stop there as this will be enough for panel lining and decalling. Please note though, that 2-3 coats should be ideal and will give you a smoother finish than what I settled with. By the way, Wipe and Shine can be applied with a handbrush, I haven't tried it yet (nor I dare try to do so), but it is possible and is known to produce good results. Also make sure that the paint you applied before this is <b>fully cured</b>. This will be explained later on.<br />
<br />
<b>What are the other uses of Pledge WnS?</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Got an old built kit with loose polycaps? Dab a coat of WnS inside the polycap and it should be better than new.</li>
<li>Want to protect your applied water-slide decal from silvering? Airbrush or brush on a coat of WnS and it should be okay from then on.</li>
<li>Want to protect enamels from being dissolved by lacquers? You can use this too (again, make sure the enamel cured properly first). At any rate, WnS can also protect any type of paint under it.</li>
</ul>
<b>Sounds like Pledge WnS is a wonder product but take heed and note these down:</b><br />
<ul>
<li> WnS will make your Bandai kit feel like a Daban Model kit specially on the arm or leg pegs. If you apply this on the pegs (like pegs that connects the whole arm to the torso), it will become super tight and might cause stress on the plastic and even breakage. So either mask the pegs out or sand them down to provide room for the extra thickness that WnS will result with.</li>
<li><b>Do not over-spray</b> this. Spray it at low air pressures (0.5bar) and don't spray too close use the normal 6-inch to 12-inch distance. If this pools on a surface, it does not create a <i>crater</i><b> </b>like what happens with normal paints, rather it will try to level it self even but due to its quick-drying properties, you might end up with an uneven coating where you can see <i>waves</i> of the WnS as it slides down the surface of your plastic and believe me, it will dry that way in a few seconds.</li>
<li>WnS might have some negative reactions with decal solutions (e.g. Mr. Mark setter and Softer, etc) - I experienced Mr Mark Setter drying into a milky film and I think it has something to do with the Mark Setter reacting with the Wipe n Shine. It is easily corrected by brushing Mr Mark Softer over those areas.</li>
<li>Its quick-drying property is <b>double-edged</b>. It is good that you'll be able to handle the parts in just a few minutes but that is also something to be wary of. Remember that I said you should let your paint fully cure first? This is the reason. A paint that is not yet fully cured is still too pliable and flexible as it is still trying to take a good grip of the surface and trying to level down to the best that it can. If you apply WnS on an uncured paint, it will grab on to the paint surface and as it dries very quickly, it will contract as it levels down. Since your paint has not yet established its grip on to the kit, WnS will pull and tear you paint, creating <b>cracks</b> or <b>ridges</b> on the paint surface and this might not be what you want. Though I would say that behavior can be something that can be put to use in certain effects you might want.</li>
</ul>
*The last point I mentioned is something I also used in this build. After airbrushing the polished aluminum, I just let it dry for 15 minutes and afterwards I immediately sprayed Pledge over it and waited for that effect to happen. I managed to smooth it out by the Honda Blue and Bosny Clear coats that I applied over it but if you look closely on those shoulder binders, you will see <i>vein</i>-like lines running in random patterns under that candy blue coat. They don't look like <i>cracks<b> </b></i>at all and they look rather interesting and gives the finish an interesting look.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RIh43ZM5LkY/VVyWOu1c-cI/AAAAAAAAAw0/Z77NZOXo328/s1600/20150516_215213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RIh43ZM5LkY/VVyWOu1c-cI/AAAAAAAAAw0/Z77NZOXo328/s320/20150516_215213.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lines have more interesting patterns on other angles.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
How do you clean Pledge Wipe & Shine off your aibrush you might ask? I found the best cleaner for my case: <b>Simple Green Glass Cleaner</b><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4k3iJOIT5I/VVy2ARTc3CI/AAAAAAAAAxs/2ARdtIpAUYU/s1600/prod_rtu_glass_lg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4k3iJOIT5I/VVy2ARTc3CI/AAAAAAAAAxs/2ARdtIpAUYU/s320/prod_rtu_glass_lg.jpg" width="155" /></a></div>
Modellers that I've watched said that the way to clean it is to use cleaners with ammonia, but ammonia is not good for your airbrush chrome-plating. Given so, you should get a glass cleaner that says <b>no ammonia</b>. Windex also has a no-ammonia formulation and that will be useful as well but I like to use this Simple Green as it is non-toxic, uses environmentally-friendly chemicals and of course, no ammonia. You should get a bottle of this and keep it handy, it is also a good overall airbrush cleaner as it does not corrode chrome-plating and it smells good. Some also use similar products to this as an acrylic paint thinner. I used it as such once but I eventually just reserved it as an overall cleaning solution.<br />
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</div>
<br />
<br />
Okay now, that's basically all I can say about pre-finishing. Next step is decalling and I believe even beginners already knows this but I will share on the next part what I used for setting the decals and what decals I actually used.<br />
<br />
Again, thanks for showing interest in reading this log and hope you stay for the coming next part.<br />
Thank you very much and I hope I can still give you something new in the next one.<br />
またヨロシク! <br />
<br />
<h3>
For part 4, <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/project-hguc-1144-rx-78-gp02a-physallis_22.html">CLICK HERE</a>!</h3>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-9931429512983606472015-05-20T03:45:00.001-07:002015-07-13T06:29:54.950-07:00[Project] HGUC 1/144 RX-78-GP02A 'Physallis' Type-MLRS Part 2<h2>
1st finished project of 2015 PART 2</h2>
どうも!<br />
Welcome again and thanks for your continued interest in following this project log. As a recap, this project log covers my build process for the HGUC 1/144 RX-78-GP02A:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KY2DjrMOVpg/VVv-5SrnChI/AAAAAAAAAsw/-DzlbS4Y8qs/s1600/20150214_210158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KY2DjrMOVpg/VVv-5SrnChI/AAAAAAAAAsw/-DzlbS4Y8qs/s320/20150214_210158.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Box Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a name='more'></a>For <b>part 1</b> of this log, <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/project-hguc-1144-rx-78-gp02a-physallis.html"><b>CLICK HERE</b></a><br />
<br />
When we ended Part 1, the parts were already primed with a white primer straight from a spraycan. Again, I think it is best to let primers rest for <b>24 hours</b>. This will let the primer cure and properly grip the plastic and also enable you to <b>PLAN</b> <b>WELL</b> with your strategy in painting the parts. You could already handle the parts after an hour if for example you need to mask things up. But for my case, masking parts will have to wait for I need to do <b>pre-shading</b> as the next important step.<br />
<h4>
Another Build Preview:</h4>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WWioEMISdTc/VVxpVJRb9rI/AAAAAAAAAvc/WxA0OrUqwJg/s1600/20150516_220345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WWioEMISdTc/VVxpVJRb9rI/AAAAAAAAAvc/WxA0OrUqwJg/s400/20150516_220345.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mobile suit with the shoulder binders only</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
Pre-shading</h4>
Pre-shading is one of the techniques in shading your plastic models. Pre-shading is a method of providing shading to parts before applying the first base coat of color of your liking. The main concept is that by using darker colors as your undercoat, you can produce different shades of your base color. This technique has been used by military modellers and miniature wargamers in painting figures and armors alike. Pre-shading is also done to simulate shadows in recesses on a surface and accentuate panel lines or where metal panels meet, for example in tanks. It also uses the concept of gradation when using airbrush in painting.<br />
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<a href="http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/images/panel_lines_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/images/panel_lines_04.jpg" height="153" width="320" /></a></div>
This is also used in organic figures, to emphasize things like muscular structures and recesses in parts of the body. Since Gunpla borrows concepts from real-life military armaments (also the fact that Mobiles suits are 'humanoid' in form), you can absolutely apply shading techniques from other plamo forms, pre-shading included.<br />
<br />
Okay, for my build, my method of preshading is I think a more widely used one. The method is to airbrush the darker color to line out recesses, panel lines, bolts or generally every where you want to create shadows on. To start it off, I deliberately used white primer. Having white as your undercoat will help keep the true color of the paint your are using. Using black as an undercoat will make any color over it turn to the darkest shade it can become. Using this concept of different undercoats, you can create gradation of colors by just using a single color of paint.<br />
Here is after I pre-shaded my kit:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Olu6c--_u9A/VVwZSH8A_0I/AAAAAAAAAtQ/vL_EHur9b8k/s1600/20150214_210312.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Olu6c--_u9A/VVwZSH8A_0I/AAAAAAAAAtQ/vL_EHur9b8k/s320/20150214_210312.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Airbrushed black paint on panel lines and recesses</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Also, it is worth mentioning that the best paint to use for preshading are acrylic-based paint or paints that have acrylic pigments. Acrylic pigments, as I observed, are not completely opaque (not as opaque as oil-based enamels). This property of acrylics used on airbrushes are good for pre-shading as they will not bleed out once fully cured. For preshading, I used Bosny Black, <b>decanted</b> and airbrushed.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N1B5NmIQQS4/VVwbvn_ZFzI/AAAAAAAAAtc/2VOazyemMdo/s1600/20150125_182604.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N1B5NmIQQS4/VVwbvn_ZFzI/AAAAAAAAAtc/2VOazyemMdo/s320/20150125_182604.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
Bosny as you all know, is a brand of spray paint. The cans of the normal colors say that they are <b>Acrylic Epoxy Lacquer</b> paints. As far as I understood, this means that it has <b>acrylic pigments,</b> with an <b>epoxy binder/fixative</b>, using <b>lacquer carriers.</b> In other words, acrylic for the actual color, epoxy for strength and lacquer for its solvent making Bosny paints almost like Gaia Notes and Mr. Color in terms that it is an acrylic solvent-based paint. But then again, please correct me if I mixed info up but I believe that is how Bosny formulates their paints. In any case, Bosny paint is a very accessible paint and economical (minus the hassle of decanting it). It comes airbrush ready as it is already very sprayable but then adding 10% thinner and 10% lacquer retardant will prevent spider webbing and tip drying.<br />
<br />
After painting the black pre-shading, you just have to spray on the base color you want to use. I used Vallejo USAF Light Grey for the main color of the GP02. What you need to make sure of is to spray on very thin coats. Only paint thickly on places you need to have the color the brightest. The end result is a gradation from a Light Grey color turning to a Medium Grey color where the light grey paint hits the black preshading.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IaLCAOU74Q8/VVwh-uOJUbI/AAAAAAAAAts/O6MTye7MsGk/s1600/20150201_171350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IaLCAOU74Q8/VVwh-uOJUbI/AAAAAAAAAts/O6MTye7MsGk/s320/20150201_171350.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Please note that for the shield, it is only a first attempt. I decided to improve it later on</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As you can see from above, the pieces already are simulating shadows thru the shading without the need for direct lighting.<br />
<br />
Now you might ask, <b>Can we pre-shade using permanent markers or paint markers?</b><br />
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<a href="http://www.tradersupplies.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/a/r/artline-400xf-allcolours_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.tradersupplies.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/a/r/artline-400xf-allcolours_1.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
Permanent markers like sharpie and paint markers like those by Artline. I also asked that same question because this means I will never have to undergo the hassle of preparing and cleaning an aibrush just to pre-shade, not to mention that you can have better control with using a marker since it's relatively pointed/fine-tipped.<br />
<br />
The answer is a big freaking <b>NO.</b> To ensure that your finish will be okay, <b>do not use markers at all</b>.<br />
I haven't experienced it but modellers report that since the markers have an oil component on them. This component will not mix well with acrylics and probably some other paints. It will look good during the first days, but it was reported that eventually as the paint cures, the ink from the marker will bleed out and more correctly not just bleed, it actually takes over like below. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9Ow251lfpH4/VVwimDKPGvI/AAAAAAAAAt0/xhM6Rlid-JI/s1600/sharpie%2B006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="171" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9Ow251lfpH4/VVwimDKPGvI/AAAAAAAAAt0/xhM6Rlid-JI/s320/sharpie%2B006.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture from http://www.ratomodeling.com</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So, just to be safe only use <b>acrylic-based</b> paints. I think you should also avoid enamels for preshading, but I haven't used enamels yet at all for overall painting but just to be safe avoid oil-based paints for preshading. <br />
<br />
If you'd like to read more about this phenomenon, go to this <a href="http://www.ratomodeling.com/articles/pre_shading1/" target="_blank">page</a>.<br />
<h4>
Highlighting</h4>
Once I have finished painting the base colors, found that some preshading didn't really work. This primarily happened on parts that I used German Grey and Dark Panzer Grey, in other words, the black preshading might get erased if the paint you will spray over is relatively dark as well. The solution I used is highlighting. Highlighting is also used in all forms of plamo building. This is to brighten up places in parts where you want to simulate light striking it. The trick is to follow the opposite of what you do in preshading. This time, you will use a brighter color than your base color. For my own technique, I just <b>white paint</b>. I usually mix 1:1 or 50% base color + 50% white color. This will be usually enough to brighten your target parts. I basically highlighted the dark grey and dark blue colored parts as I wanted to enhance the shading. Example is below:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZS74opOn8Lg/VVwqPi5ZI2I/AAAAAAAAAuE/KnX_yCCCg38/s1600/20150329_175608.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZS74opOn8Lg/VVwqPi5ZI2I/AAAAAAAAAuE/KnX_yCCCg38/s320/20150329_175608.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sprayed a mixed of Vallejo Dark Panzer Grey and White for the highlights</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
That's basically it for painting parts. Of course I did some masking done here and there. Would you believe I only used an ordinary <b>3M Tartan</b> masking tape? I did not experience any chipping or peeling off. Thanks to proper priming.<br />
<br />
Anyway, here are some pics of the painting activities I did further:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k-606Th0j3A/VVwszDwpaaI/AAAAAAAAAuQ/-mEdDHIUSdI/s1600/20150321_215027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k-606Th0j3A/VVwszDwpaaI/AAAAAAAAAuQ/-mEdDHIUSdI/s320/20150321_215027.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Repainted the shield</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
*Remember the shield? I found it too bright so I decided to strip the paint off and start again. I found the new color even better.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iuPdaI3S9ZU/VVws4K6RpiI/AAAAAAAAAuY/3s28CLoEMAo/s1600/20150321_215222.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iuPdaI3S9ZU/VVws4K6RpiI/AAAAAAAAAuY/3s28CLoEMAo/s320/20150321_215222.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Featuring the shield, leg armor and the shoulder binder</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n9d2WPSSW_g/VVwtCP1rKqI/AAAAAAAAAug/9gQBCZsJZhI/s1600/20150329_175727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n9d2WPSSW_g/VVwtCP1rKqI/AAAAAAAAAug/9gQBCZsJZhI/s320/20150329_175727.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6We9eaAs80U/VVwtNEHadSI/AAAAAAAAAuo/G-Zkeb7npk8/s1600/20150411_213956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6We9eaAs80U/VVwtNEHadSI/AAAAAAAAAuo/G-Zkeb7npk8/s320/20150411_213956.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I tested to see the overall look of the body parts as it is</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
*As I said, I wanted to eliminate the bright colors of this kit. Given so, the yellow stripes were painted dark grey instead.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XePXSV_w3_Q/VVwtZA9iaxI/AAAAAAAAAuw/r56lYEKNcsA/s1600/20150411_214022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XePXSV_w3_Q/VVwtZA9iaxI/AAAAAAAAAuw/r56lYEKNcsA/s320/20150411_214022.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shoulder binders now painted as I wanted them</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-13-ckdT5QgI/VVwtbMzDtQI/AAAAAAAAAu4/UmFKBv3g4Rc/s1600/20150411_214048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-13-ckdT5QgI/VVwtbMzDtQI/AAAAAAAAAu4/UmFKBv3g4Rc/s320/20150411_214048.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Well then, that's it for now. Hope you learned some thing from this log so far.<br />
For the next part, I continued with protecting the paint job and adding decals to prepare for the final coating and assembly.<br />
Thank you very much for reading all through this. I hope you enjoyed and learned from it.<br />
<h3>
If you are still interested, please <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/project-hguc-1144-rx-78-gp02a-physallis_51.html">CLICK HERE</a> for Part 3</h3>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-77113180625610266332015-05-20T03:42:00.002-07:002015-08-10T21:03:35.704-07:00[Project] HGUC 1/144 RX-78-GP02A 'Physallis' Type-MLRS Part 1<h2>
1st finished project of 2015 PART 1</h2>
どうも!<br />
Welcome to my project log.<br />
This is a log of my recently finished plamo project. This is a GunPla, specifically the HGUC 1/144 RX-78-GP02A 'Physallis' with its MLRS option.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/c/cf/Rx-78gp02amlrs.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20130102082525" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/c/cf/Rx-78gp02amlrs.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20130102082525" height="320" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture from Gundam Wikia<br />
This is the original color scheme for this mobile suit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a name='more'></a>Want to skip the boring reading?<br />
Click here for the goodies instead! -> <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/photoshootproject-hguc-1144-rx-78-gp02a.html" target="_blank"><b>GP02 Finished Product</b></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JfHuuUVKykU/VVxm7ZgFR0I/AAAAAAAAAvI/CZlQW_d1QB4/s1600/11068053_1097052013643233_8866899901775855867_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JfHuuUVKykU/VVxm7ZgFR0I/AAAAAAAAAvI/CZlQW_d1QB4/s320/11068053_1097052013643233_8866899901775855867_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Box art with some of the runners</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h4>
<b>Info</b>:</h4>
<ul>
<li><b>Build type: </b>semi-straight-build (converted some seamlines into panel lines)</li>
<li><b>Start Date:</b> January 15, 2015</li>
<li><b>Finish Date:</b> May 17, 2015</li>
</ul>
<h4>
<b>Build Preview:</b></h4>
Here's a bad snapshot of the finished product.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bp8hdIUxzNY/VVxosA00RWI/AAAAAAAAAvU/60YJEGSmWLo/s1600/20150517_000416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bp8hdIUxzNY/VVxosA00RWI/AAAAAAAAAvU/60YJEGSmWLo/s400/20150517_000416.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<b> </b><br />
<h4>
<b>Build philosophy:</b></h4>
I currently build Gunpla on a straight-build basis. This is because I still lack the skill and time to learn the skill to do major customizations. Right now, I only use basic techniques and currently, I want to perfect my painting process and techniques. For me, establishing my best painting discipline is better than knowing how to customize kits (I mean, for now) because I have seen a lot of builders customizing their kits (e.g. kit-bashing, pla-plating). While I have seen a lot of builders having epic results on these activities, more often do I see builders going over the top on their customizations which only they themselves see as epic. Aside from the disproportionate kit-bashing a lot of these I call 'shortcomings' or 'failures' results from poor paint jobs (like bad color combinations, bad painting practice and poor painting skills). Given those thoughts, I decided to not make those same mistakes and poor practices - before I delved into painting, I researched a great deal around the net and watched a lot youtube vids about painting plastic models. I learned a great deal from that research method, I probably learned a great deal more than if I asked already answered questions in Facebook groups or forums (lol).<br />
But enough about that. For this project, I decided to airbrush paint using both hobby-grade and industrial-grade products. The color pattern I used was military-themed which means I eliminated anime-ish and/or cartoonish colors that you will not see in real-life military applications. I primarily replaced all yellow colors and stuck to shades of gray. The color blue is not a problem, but for the red color, I decided to darken it. Red is the first color the human eye can detect and in military situations becoming the first thing your enemy sees is a no-no.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://vignette4.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/7/7a/RX-78-2_Gundam.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20110905032054" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://vignette4.wikia.nocookie.net/gundam/images/7/7a/RX-78-2_Gundam.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20110905032054" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture linked from Gundam Wikia<br />
Those bright yellow and bright red colors are targets for enemies on the battlefield</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
It is also worth mentioning that I decided to try my hand in shading techniques (e.g. pre-shading, highlighting, etc) for this project. I saw videos made by builders of military models and miniatures and I found them interesting and also eye-appealing. With techniques from these flavors of model painting, I took a shot to see how it will go.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/images/panel_lines_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/images/panel_lines_04.jpg" height="153" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from http://www.ipmsstockholm.org<br />
This is the result I basically aimed for</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
The Build</h4>
I never thought before that I will be documenting my projects in this way, and so I failed to take photos of earlier steps I did so let me just enumerate:<br />
<ol>
<li>I washed the runners by soaking them in clear water mixed with dishwashing liquid and used an old toothbrushing to lightly brushed the parts. After then, I rinsed them clean under running water and left to air dry</li>
<li>I proceeded to assemble the parts (i.e. cleaning nubs, etc) and trimming pegs to enable me to disassemble them later if needed.</li>
<li>Since this is an HG kit, it is necessary to remove seamlines for parts that are supposed to be a single solid object. A lot of modellers use a lacquer-based putty to smooth the seam out of view but that still does not eliminate the seam itself, only hide it under it - there is a possibility that it might open again if the parts are put under pressure. For me, the best way is to use plastic cement - brush this on the parts you want to cement together (put a little bit more than usual), let it stand for around 10 seconds for the plastic to slightly melt, then put the parts together and clamp them to let the melted plastic ooze a bit. After a few hours (or 24 hours for me), sand the parts clean. This method eliminates the seam entirely, fusing the two plastic parts into one solid part.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://mfpilot.com/ebaypics/Tamiya87012Cement.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://mfpilot.com/ebaypics/Tamiya87012Cement.jpg" height="320" width="278" /></a></div>
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</li>
<li>I actually assembled the head first. I first finished painting the face plate of the Gundam: painting the eyes, etc. I did this because I need to remove seamlines on the head. But before removing the seamlines, I first masked the face to protect it until all the other painting is done.</li>
<li>After all sanding and seamline removal is done. I dusted off the parts as clean as I can, for some parts are re-washed them to remove oils from my hands when I handled it. From this, the plastic is now ready for painting.</li>
</ol>
<b>Painting</b><br />
<i><b>Priming</b></i><b> </b><br />
Let me just give an advice to everyone: <i>Please prime your kits properly.</i> I have experienced paint peeling off just because I skipped this step. In my experience, the best primers are the <b>surfacer-primer</b> types. These basically are 'paint' that puts a new layer of surfacing on the plastic which mutes the original color of the plastic and also helps the paint you will apply adhere to the plastic better. Surfacer-primers will also reveal large defects and/or scratches you missed in the initial cleanup. Using primers will also prevent your paint from peeling off when you do masking.<br />
In my quest to make myself independent of brands, I used this VHT primer.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-224IOMsbKqQ/VVssrQH8uOI/AAAAAAAAAr8/zwuVaNOUV6o/s1600/20150124_154549.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-224IOMsbKqQ/VVssrQH8uOI/AAAAAAAAAr8/zwuVaNOUV6o/s320/20150124_154549.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VHT Prime Coat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I found this primer to be very good. It's as fine as a Mr. Surfacer 1500, it is sandable and sands cleanly and it has microfillers like the Japanese-brand surfacers. Microfillers will smooth out shallow scratches you might have missed during the initial test-fitting. Also, this VHT primer is very strong that it can resist stripping agents like iso and denatured alcohol. Its spray nozzle is also designed to spray finely which helps you prevent spraying too thickly. Also worth mentioning that when shopping for a primer, get ones that are <b>lacquer-based</b>. Lacquer-based primers provide the strongest grip on the plastic compared to even enamels. It also has quick drying and curing time which saves you time for a great deal. Now, I am not quite sure if this VHT Primer is lacquer-based; I actually think it is enamel-based as it smells like the normal household enamel paints. But regardless, enamel-based primers are also strong and so you should only worry about its curing time.<br />
<br />
I also would like to recommend this primer from RJ London:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.overjoyed.com.sg/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/512x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/R/J/RJ_LONDON_1007_23372.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.overjoyed.com.sg/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/512x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/R/J/RJ_LONDON_1007_23372.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">RJ London Anti-Corrosion Primer<br />
Also available in Grey and Rust Red</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I used this as well on this project and I would say it is very tough too but has a tendency of being too thick - though nothing a little sanding can't fix.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
There is also this one, which I used before: Bosny Plastic Primer<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://pimg.tradeindia.com/01457490/b/1/Bosny-Plastic-Primer-Spray.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://pimg.tradeindia.com/01457490/b/1/Bosny-Plastic-Primer-Spray.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
This primer works well too and it has application to plastics as its main use (PS, ABS, etc). Main problem is that this is transparent and also there is a time-limit to its effectivity. After 10 minutes, you have to spray the color you want to paint your kit immediately. If you went past 30 minutes without painting anything over it, you will have to respray this as the primer is no longer effective past that. This is more an adhesion promoter for paints rather than a surfacer.<br />
<br />
All of the above I mentioned are spraycans, however. I used spraycans for this project because I haven't found...or rather I was not yet confident in <b>airbrushing primers</b> of any kind. I actually tested airbrushing a <b>decanted</b> RJ London Primer, but it became very rough and cleanup was such a hassle so I abandoned the idea for the time being and just went for a spraycan approach. But airbrushing primers gives you control over application so if you'd like to use your airbrushing for priming, I believe one of the best one to use is still this:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2LUxU-NR9AY/Vb7hBcwfbII/AAAAAAAABZw/YaVTMNvFGps/s1600/hobby_6828_pmr_finishing_surfacer_1500_grayp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2LUxU-NR9AY/Vb7hBcwfbII/AAAAAAAABZw/YaVTMNvFGps/s320/hobby_6828_pmr_finishing_surfacer_1500_grayp.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This also comes in Black</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 is from the Mr. Hobby line of hobby products by Gunze-Sangyo (also know as GSI). They also make paints like the Mr. Color line of both water-based and solvent-based acrylics. They also have the Gundam Color line, which are basically what Bandai uses as color references in their Gunpla releases. GSI, by the way are the creators of the Gundam Markers.<br />
Now, this does not come airbrush ready, so you will have to mix this with <b>Mr. Levelling Thinner</b>. Start with a ratio of 1:1 and I recommend spraying it with a PSI of 8-10 or with 0.5bar. You could also use lower grit values like the <b>Mr. Surfacer 1200</b> which gives you more microfillers to cover larger and/or deeper scratches.<br />
Next, I believe is the best so far in terms of primers you can airbrush. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S-kfE-WfXwM/VVwGI140WUI/AAAAAAAAAtA/EAA1_YMTFoc/s1600/11149279_1091270297554738_1892804885806489898_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S-kfE-WfXwM/VVwGI140WUI/AAAAAAAAAtA/EAA1_YMTFoc/s320/11149279_1091270297554738_1892804885806489898_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The two larger bottles in the middle are the primers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
These are the <b>Alclad II Primers</b>. Completely airbrush-ready right out of the bottle, just shake the bottle (the bottles have agitators inside) for a few seconds and pour this in to your AB cup. Alclads are popular specially for their all-lacquer paints. They don't have the normal paints like GSI or Tamiya have, but they focus on special types like for metallics, candy-finish and one of the best is their primers. Alclad Primers have microfillers as well. I actually got one grey and one white and will be using them for my next project. I already found videos in youtube and found good reviews of the product so I'll cover my own perspective of the product in future logs.<br />
<br />
Before moving forward, I think I also need to tell you what <b>not</b> to use as primer, THIS: Bosny Primer Grey<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.kyubicosplay.com/image/cache/data/products/Paints/IMG_0029-550x550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.kyubicosplay.com/image/cache/data/products/Paints/IMG_0029-550x550.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is just a primer-colored paint</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>EDIT:</b> It has been confirmed by Bosny representatives and some users that Bosny Grey Primer above is indeed also an acrylic-lacquer primer. I also noticed in experience that its pigments are coarser than normal paint from Bosny. It also promotes adhesion for succeeding paint layers pretty well. But since it uses acrylic as its main medium (with a lacquer-solvent), I still find it scratching off easier compared to primers like Alclad Primers and Tamiya Super Surfacers. Use this if you can't find anything else. For me, I still use this as a normal paint and a good back-up primer if I ran out of Alclads.<br />
<strike>I have seen a lot of modellers posting in groups like: "WIP: Primed/primered my kit, ready for painting". Then I see they just used this paint. Guess what? This is not the primer you think it is. It is just a normal paint color, probably Sea Gray in other brands.</strike> Unlike the real surfacer-primers, this paint just colors the plastic in its primer-like color. Okay, this is a lacquer-based paint. It is also matte when fully cured. Given that, this paint will grip the plastic good enough and also provides a grippy surface for next colors to grab on to. That may be good for a while, but once you do maskings, there is a risk that the paint will peel off along with this one. In short, if you're going to prime your kit, you better do it properly - use the right stuff. Just use this one as you would with a normal paint. (I actually use this an alternative to a Sea Gray paint). You also cannot sand this if needed. But then again, you can kind of use this as a pseudo-surfacer:<br />
<ol>
<li>Spray the Bosny Plastic Primer as instructed</li>
<li>After 10 minutes (and not more than 30 minutes), spray this over.</li>
<li>Viola, "priming" finished</li>
</ol>
Okay, after that lesson about priming and stuff, I suggest letting the primer to <b>cure</b> for <b>24 hours</b>. Primers from spraycans, specially the lacquer-based ones dry in just 30 minutes, but general tip for all paints is to let it <b>cure</b>. Curing is letting the paint fully rid itself of solvents and carriers, letting the color-pigment to fully settle on the surface of your kit. Primers that didn't fully cure may have problems when you handle it too early, not too mention the risk that it might have negative effects in the future.<br />
<br />
Moving forward, here are the parts mounted for priming:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PMmfCrjBAxo/VVs6pDgp9GI/AAAAAAAAAsM/qBGTBdDltug/s1600/20150130_020335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PMmfCrjBAxo/VVs6pDgp9GI/AAAAAAAAAsM/qBGTBdDltug/s320/20150130_020335.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parts mounted using trimmed runners with alligator clips attached.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I trimmed used <b>plastic runners</b> and fixed alligator clips on them. For parts that don't have anything to clip on to, I used <b>sticky tack clay</b> to stick them on the plastic sticks. I used Faber-Castell Tack-It (Php56). It works well in keeping parts fixed and it comes already pre-cut. The good thing about sticky tacks is that you can re-use them again and again. After painting, just knead them several times. Kneading the sticky tacks wears off the paint that got on to them and reactivates the sticky agent. This basically means you can use a small amount over and over again for future projects. <br />
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After securing the parts on the mounts, I just sprayed the VHT Primer on the parts. I just sprayed 2 coats and kept everything thin and even.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GJsvLcAVqAY/VVs9mWBHDNI/AAAAAAAAAsY/vAS_cCsNTMk/s1600/20150130_171439.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GJsvLcAVqAY/VVs9mWBHDNI/AAAAAAAAAsY/vAS_cCsNTMk/s320/20150130_171439.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
By the way, I used white as the color of the primer. I find it easier to control the color of my base coats and also very effective in the pre-shading method that I will be using.<br />
<br />
So that basically ends the first part of project.<br />
<h3>
If you're still interested for the next part (part 2), <a href="http://gengimplamo.blogspot.com/2015/05/project-hguc-1144-rx-78-gp02a-physallis_20.html" target="">CLICK HERE</a> :)</h3>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-32631941909289456062015-05-19T02:56:00.000-07:002015-05-19T20:19:10.736-07:00[Unboxing] MC Model 1/144 RX-104FF Penelope "Gundoom"<h2>
Unboxing Time!</h2>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MHlsVHnFHLo/VRugGKDsVRI/AAAAAAAAFc4/96blPhTUMyg/s1600/6fffe8b0gw1eqp4b7etkqj20i20r5te0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MHlsVHnFHLo/VRugGKDsVRI/AAAAAAAAFc4/96blPhTUMyg/s1600/6fffe8b0gw1eqp4b7etkqj20i20r5te0.jpg" width="212" /></a></div>
どうも! <br />
This will be my first unboxing that I ever documented.<br />
What I have this time is a non-bandai, 3rd party kit. It is actually the first kit that I ever got from this company/brand but its other earlier release had good reviews so I decided to get its second release from the series it is based on. <br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
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皆様、I present you <b>Model Comprehend (MC) RX-104FF Penelope</b> <b><i>Gundoom</i></b>. Please note, Model Comprehend is entirely a third party, meaning it is not affiliated with Bandai and so it uses the 'Gundoom' instead of Gundam to avoid copyright infringements as basically the term Gundam is copyrighted only to Bandai and Sunrise (and other affiliates I may not know of).<br />
<br />
<b>Short History</b>:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7Ppeb-OUl-U/VVrzb_mWcLI/AAAAAAAAArc/GBm2_DLAfDA/s1600/81%2BOS1jtNgL._SX425_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="230" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7Ppeb-OUl-U/VVrzb_mWcLI/AAAAAAAAArc/GBm2_DLAfDA/s320/81%2BOS1jtNgL._SX425_.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MC 1/144 RX-105 Xi Gundam box art</td></tr>
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As far as I know, MC is a Chinese company that produces plastic model kits and a lot of their products are from the Gundam universe and most of it from the Universal Century series (UC). As far as I know, they only make kits in the 1/144 scale line and like Bandai they grade the scale in HG (High Grade). MC is known to improve details of the mobile suits when they produce the kits. They primarily bootleg the kits but instead of just re-casting the kits, they add their own touch to it. But recently, MC is already making kits that Bandai does not seem to want to make plamo kits for and the recent release they made really made a name for them - the RX-105 Xi Gundoom. Still in 1/144 scale, it featured an inner frame, custom action base, detailed parts and comes with a water-slide decal sheet by default. Now, following the 'Hathaway's Flash' story, they made another kit and this time the Xi's predecessor, the Penelope. Released around late April 2015, I became curious and now decided to finally get one (May 19, 2015). I was also interested in getting Mechanicore's (another 3rd party) 1/100 Penelope originally, but I managed to fight off temptation and decided that I don't need an expensive kit. Probably will just save money to get a Perfect Grade Zeta instead.<br />
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People who already built MC kits always say "It's larger than a normal Bandai HG" - but let me just inform everyone that even if MC slightly fixes proportions, those customizations doesn't really change the fact that the kits they make are based on tall/huge mobile suits in the first place. Nu, Qubeley, Xi and now Penelope - these are all relatively huge mobile suits and so they will seem bigger in 1/144 scale (Xi in 1/144 is as big as an MG Zaku II). To put things in perspective, the Xi's overall height is 28 meters, in 1/144 scale that would translate to 19.4cm in height and that means it's already as tall as a normal Universal Century mobile suit in <b>MG</b> 1/100 scale.<br />
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<b>Pricing/Cost: </b>By the time of this writing, which is actually the same day I got this kit, its cost is Php 1550 or roughly US$35. That was basically the price it was originally posted before. I was surprised it didn't cost as much as I thought it would have (which you will know later why it should've) but judging from the fact that the Philippines is not that far from China, I should say the factor of shipping might've been minimized even if I bought this from a re-seller. If you're buying from non-Asian countries expect for the price to be higher.<br />
By the way, I got this from sir Dale Chua of Neo System Hobby or Neo Hobs. They have a brick-n-mortar shop (not just an online shop) which you can visit to buy things personally.<br />
Check their shop thru their Facebook page/s:<br />
<a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Neo-Hobs/807606149320907?fref=ts">Neo Hobs</a><br />
<a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Neo-System-Hobby/1514335668790503?fref=ts">Neo System Hobby</a><br />
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<h3>
The Box</h3>
* Just click the pics to see it in higher res<br />
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Here it is, the damn, big-ass box.<br />
As you can see in this first pic, there seems to be already something wrong even if there is no size reference.<br />
Let's see first the 360-deg shots:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zYbCa_VU-TQ/VVrtxLpGHhI/AAAAAAAAApw/z-vEMrjOwZs/s1600/20150519_141939.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zYbCa_VU-TQ/VVrtxLpGHhI/AAAAAAAAApw/z-vEMrjOwZs/s320/20150519_141939.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front design (or at least the first large face I took a pic of)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QJcWVNZa1SI/VVrt2CsxedI/AAAAAAAAAp4/5IICsUwND_E/s1600/20150519_142022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QJcWVNZa1SI/VVrt2CsxedI/AAAAAAAAAp4/5IICsUwND_E/s320/20150519_142022.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side shot 1: This features the detachable Minovsky craft flight unit</td></tr>
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*In the story, the base mobile suit is named the <b>Odysseus Gundam</b>. When fully docked with the Minovsky Craft Flight System, it becomes the Penelope<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-egf2kLV-8uI/VVrt5SCk4VI/AAAAAAAAAqA/kIhWwZWnuEo/s1600/20150519_142051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-egf2kLV-8uI/VVrt5SCk4VI/AAAAAAAAAqA/kIhWwZWnuEo/s320/20150519_142051.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Other main display of the box</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xVNWW2Gy1VM/VVruNZ5ay9I/AAAAAAAAAqQ/4TdSlgEuw08/s1600/20150519_142116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xVNWW2Gy1VM/VVruNZ5ay9I/AAAAAAAAAqQ/4TdSlgEuw08/s320/20150519_142116.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side shot 2</td></tr>
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Now, here is a size comparison. I also just got the new Char's Zaku II from the The Origin series (OVA). I would say that this kit's box is 3-4 times as big as a normal HG packaging and probably as large as the HG 1/144 GP03 Dendrobium. This actually came as a shock when MC revealed the first pictures of the actual packaging over the net. Their Xi Gundoom's packaging was as only as big as the MG RX-78-2 Ver 3.0 and not really that strange for a 1/144 but the Penelope took it to another level.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o7M68YFzDh4/VVruGfAksmI/AAAAAAAAAqI/WLOQMQSECzM/s1600/20150519_142252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o7M68YFzDh4/VVruGfAksmI/AAAAAAAAAqI/WLOQMQSECzM/s320/20150519_142252.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Normal Bandai HG box for comparison</td></tr>
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Okay, why did the box became that freakin' big? Well, we all actually figured out with the pics released in the net. Somehow, MC decided to use styrofoam (expanded styrene) to separate parts runners but not all. The big parts, specially the parts for the minovsky craft, were secured by the styrofoam and other minor parts were packaged in normal plastic packs as we all are familiar with.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NsvY7jb2kI4/VVruO4Gz-5I/AAAAAAAAAqY/ArQ3Hcq5ShU/s1600/20150519_142651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NsvY7jb2kI4/VVruO4Gz-5I/AAAAAAAAAqY/ArQ3Hcq5ShU/s320/20150519_142651.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note that there are 3 layers of styrofoam trays</td></tr>
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By the way, here's the manual's cover:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_wTm4iNNkjA/VVruYlXvdhI/AAAAAAAAAqg/hNVKCkwfjgo/s1600/20150519_142839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_wTm4iNNkjA/VVruYlXvdhI/AAAAAAAAAqg/hNVKCkwfjgo/s320/20150519_142839.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The manual features 14 leaves, including the cover pages (at least 28 pages for the instructions)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qlWl2-1NymQ/VVrukKJMN_I/AAAAAAAAAqo/niceVQKVTUI/s1600/20150519_142949.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qlWl2-1NymQ/VVrukKJMN_I/AAAAAAAAAqo/niceVQKVTUI/s320/20150519_142949.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1st tray contains the parts packaged in plastic packs like what is normally done</td></tr>
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Now what you see here in the next 3 pics are the contents of the tray layers:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2NuuYme-Y4U/VVrunQBy__I/AAAAAAAAAqw/Ese6tsnDZxs/s1600/20150519_143009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2NuuYme-Y4U/VVrunQBy__I/AAAAAAAAAqw/Ese6tsnDZxs/s320/20150519_143009.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1st tray</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DjXrRnI7YG8/VVruuTW5k9I/AAAAAAAAAq4/HAetxNDQoaM/s1600/20150519_143137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DjXrRnI7YG8/VVruuTW5k9I/AAAAAAAAAq4/HAetxNDQoaM/s320/20150519_143137.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2nd Tray</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RyuVmkN8kYI/VVrvdCKFPdI/AAAAAAAAArQ/9XZ8H2HbafE/s1600/20150519_143225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RyuVmkN8kYI/VVrvdCKFPdI/AAAAAAAAArQ/9XZ8H2HbafE/s320/20150519_143225.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3rd, Bottom Tray: Also includes sticker seals/decals and the huge water-slide decal sheet</td></tr>
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One thing I noticed about some parts is that there are evident residue of the mold release agent or probably remnants after the runner cleanup they did (zoom in to see). Nothing major because I always wash my runners every time I build plamo.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V3BrSdOAWZw/VVru_Z9R6HI/AAAAAAAAArI/7qbnaz5xnzo/s1600/20150519_143350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V3BrSdOAWZw/VVru_Z9R6HI/AAAAAAAAArI/7qbnaz5xnzo/s320/20150519_143350.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lrpMrb1zeoY/VVru28FzwzI/AAAAAAAAArA/6URx6DXJtN4/s1600/20150519_143328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lrpMrb1zeoY/VVru28FzwzI/AAAAAAAAArA/6URx6DXJtN4/s320/20150519_143328.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>My thoughts</b>: I actually commend Model Comprehend for thinking ahead in terms of packaging. They most likely have in mind that their products will be spending a lot of time in shipment. And so, they really ensured that the parts will not be deformed and/or damaged while in transit. But somehow, I still cannot change my initial opinion that they could've used other ways of protecting the parts without resulting to big-ass box. Others will of course disagree with me in this, but the main alternative I can think of is to separate the parts more into smaller divisions. As you can see, the kit has good color separation but if you divided these parts into smaller sections, you won't have to worry about them snapping off or getting broken. This will result you to more runners but less protection needed since the parts are now smaller (like what they do for big mobile suits like the MG Sazabi Ver Ka). But given that this is supposed to be an HG, this is already a step above what we're used to in normal HG kits. In the end, I got a kit with all parts intact and everything how it's supposed to be. Also, that box and styro-trays will have other uses in the future.<br />
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By the way, I initially planned to do an <b>Advance Of Zeta</b> build series. I actually already have cleaned the parts off the runners for my HGUC RX-121 TR-1 Hazel Custom and will probably just add new panel lines but they're basically ready for painting. But I want to build this while it's fresh from the oven. I kinda don't trust MC yet and the plastic might change negatively if I let it sit in my backlog LOL. It's summer right now in my place and unwanted things might happen to plastics. That, and I am actually excited building a Penelope.<br />
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That's all I have right now, so please just watch out for WIP logs of this build.<br />
Thanks for taking time to view this log :D<br />
'Til next time, cheers!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-481247570163846360.post-59379691815893003562015-05-18T05:47:00.002-07:002015-05-18T06:09:44.635-07:00Introduction<h2>
ヤッホー!</h2>
<h2>
Attention! Achtung! </h2>
Greetings and welcome!<br />
My name is Gimel(ジメル)and sometimes I am know online as GeN_GiM or GeNeRaL which was my gaming name when I was still playing casual-competitive RTS games.<br />
<br />
I live in the Philippines and currently work in a multinational company. I am primarily interested in Japanese stuff (mainly Language or 日本語 and culture). Another thing I have now largely invested in right now is plastic model building or as referred to in Japanese 'PLAMO' - プラモ.<br />
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This will be my journal about my projects in plastic modelling. Please note, I am no master or expert in this craft and my main point for this is diving into modelling in a learning perspective aiming to show visitors of this blog to techniques and processes that will hopefully help and give tips to beginners. Hopefully, experienced modellers might also get something from my posts.<br />
Also, I will be generally be in to GUNPLA or Gundam Plastic Models but I will be delving on other types from time to time.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ygk5_YQk9fU/VVngjSW4TeI/AAAAAAAAApc/u5qXzE54pIk/s1600/DSC_8661.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="MG 1/100 Sazabi Ver. Ka" border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ygk5_YQk9fU/VVngjSW4TeI/AAAAAAAAApc/u5qXzE54pIk/s320/DSC_8661.jpg" title="1st finished build of the year" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MG 1/100 Sazabi Ver. Ka which I finished Dec. 31, 2014</td></tr>
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<br />
Being in the Philippines, most of the materials and tools for this hobby is scarce or pretty much relatively expensive as we mostly import things. Another point of this journal is to show that you don't really need to acquire hobby-grade products. All hobby-grade products are all based on already existing products just re-named for this hobby. Given so, I will try my best to document those alternatives that will probably help save money.<br />
<br />
Last point, whether anyone comes to this journal or not. This will be my personal log on things about plamo so I can use it as reference for future projects and/or if someone asks for tips, I can easily point them her LOL.<br />
<br />
And so, wish me luck and I hope that you join me in this Plamo Journey! You are dismissed!<br />
よろしく!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00065299037508518596noreply@blogger.com0