Penelope Gundoom WIP#4: Time to Paint!
Last time, I sorted out the metallic parts of the build. Now it's time to do the rest - finally!
Modus Operandi Step 1: PrimingIn my HG GP02 MLRS build, I used shading techniques which I really liked due to its final result. Given so, I decided that in all my future GunPla projects, shading will be mandatory - no more 'plain' painting. My main philosophy for this is that since people consider GunPla as a scale model and not a 'toy', doing shadings will make it more look less of a toy and more of a true scale model. So if you are reading this, don't just color it plain - do something special! (specially if you are sensitive to GunPla being called as a toy like a lot of people out there); all other model kits out there always require painting and post-painting methods, GunPla is so far one of the few model kit series that is more toy-like because it now spoils the builder to just snap-build it and do minimal painting making the builder stagnant in terms of skills and prevents one from becoming a better builder. Anyway, enough of my 'philosophy', I just really like shading as it makes the kit more realistic/life-like in any light conditions.
So anyway, first step as the picture above shows is of course to prime the parts. I already built and painted the inner frame with DS Paint Gunmetal as illustrated in the first WIP episode. Now for the outer armor, the parts were pre-assembled into more manageable portions that will not make painting difficult.
For the white, blue and grey parts, I used Alclad II Grey Primer and Microfiller:
|I think I will need to stock on this one|
Modus Operandi Step 2: Shading and HighlightingIn the shading process for my HG GP02 MLRS, I predominantly used pre-shading as my main method. Pre-shading just means painting areas where you want shadows to exist with a darker color (usually flat black) then paint it with your base color. The pre-shaded areas will produce a darker shade of the color your sprayed which will simulate shadowed areas no matter the light source. For the Penelope, I will use highlighting instead and just reserve pre-shading to the red parts. Highlighting is a technique where you will just paint the whole plastic with the darker shade first then just paint over it with the color you are aiming for, effectively highlighting the part and still produce shading. Here is are the examples:
For the white parts, I used Bosny Dark Grey as the base color:
Next, the blue parts. For the blue parts, I used Bosny Dark Blue as the base color:
Lastly, for the red parts, I just used pre-shading. This is to not distort the red color that much and just produce a shadow on selected areas of the parts. To pre-shade the parts, I again used Bosny Black and used Nippon Paint Deep Red as my red color:
Modus Operandi Step 3:Something differentI tried to something different for some of the parts to add some 'personal touch' to entire build. I must admit, some succeeded and one particular part was not up to my expectation.
First the bad result. The part I kind of failed is the back-butt armor. I first highlighted it with Bosny 'Primer' Grey (yes, Bosny's primer-colored grey - not an actual primer), because I am aiming for a neutral grey sub-color. I then proceed to mask off some parts:
Disappointed as I was, I decided to keep the pattern and just softened it by highlighting the areas with a tint of Bosny White.
On the other hand, I achieved good results with some other parts, mainly the blue parts.
Again, after the dark blue as base color, I masked off some areas of the parts:
Modus Operandi Step 4: Hand PaintingI won't be using stickers for this build and so hand painting is required specially for the small details the stickers were meant for. One particular part I would like to show here is the head.
I also hand painted a few other parts to add more detail.
Modus Operandi Step 5: SavepointWith everything nice and painted, it's time to save my progress. Time to seal the paint with a clear coat. After a few days of curing, I next coated the parts with a clear gloss coat. In model building, this step is technically an optional step but one which I tend to do when painting plamo. Coating your painted parts with a gloss coat will provide your progress with a savepoint to protect your current state and to avoid damages in the future. The gloss coat will also help things up during washing (or pin-washing in this case) and decalling which will be the next steps for the build. But remember, if you are going to do this, make sure to let your paint cure for at least overnight just to be on the safe side.
For the gloss varnish, I mainly used Pledge Wipe & Shine and Vallejo Polyurethane Gloss Varnish.
Here is one example of the result of the gloss-coating:
Modus Operandi Step 6: Pin-WashingWith the gloss coat on, it's time to do the washing or in this case, pin-washing. GunPla builders usually call this method Panel Lining or in verb form 'to panel-line'. In military armor modelling, it is referred to as pin-washing as you only precisely apply a washing agent to bring out the details of a model (like the panel lines or the places where armor panels meet) that are too small and have been obscured by the painting process. Casual GunPla builders, scour hobby shops and bookstores/office supply stores to look for fine-tip pigment markers or Gundam Marker GM-01 to GM-03. I also use an Artline Pigment Marker (0.1 and .05 tips), but I only use them for very fine details that need accuracy and less cleanup. Also, using these fine-tip markers does not give the best looking results as more often, it will just make your GunPla look more toy-ish and cartoon-ish due to its too perfect lines. If you aim for convenience, I suggest using a Gundam Gray Real Touch Marker instead.
Okay, in the first place, you should not use a black marker as a panel-liner specially on white parts as this will just make your GunPla look like a plastic toy and not a true model. Second, Real Touch markers have the soft and fine brush tips and the ink they carry is relatively thin. This results with the panel line looking more of a shaded area and less like a 'line that was drawn in a cartoon'. Also, cleanup after the Real Touch Marker is easier.
But the real way to handle panel lines is thru pin-washing. For this we will need the help of enamels again, preferably black or a dark german gray. Like in all washing processes, you will just have to thin the enamel paint very thin that it is almost like water in consistency (but not too thin that the pigments start to break up). I like to use enamels or any oil-based paint for washing as it automatically rides the panel lines by itself using capillary action with just the tip of the brush touching the crevices. Again, using enamels for this helps make cleanup excesses easier. You could also use Tamiya's Panel Accent Color or Mig Washes for the same purpose.
|Photo from Tamiya USA website|
|Photo from Mig Web Shop|
This time, I used both methods. For the white and some other parts, I used a Grey Real Touch Gundam Marker, since I like the way it adds another level of shading and weathering. For the blue parts, I used something different: OIL PAINTS.
One advantage of making your own washes, is that you can create any color that you want. Since the blue parts are dark blue, I wanted to try something different. I used these:
Modus Operandi Step 7: DecallingWell, not exactly painting but it does add some more colors to your kit. This part is not that hard. You'll just need tap water, cotton buds, tweezers, cutters and to ensure good decal adhesion, I also used Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer.
The only daunting thing about the decals of this kit is that it is Ver. Ka - level.
I forgot to take a pic of the decal sheet but it is roughly an A4-sized sheet like below (upper left corner of the photo):
Aside from that, putting the decals on should be routine and nothing special:
After all the decals, the next step will be finishing, which I will be doing in the next log.
I hope I was able to share something useful to you. Stick around for the next log as I finally finish this baby.